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Thread: Best handsaw if you only buy one?

  1. #1
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    Best handsaw if you only buy one?

    Caveat: I have a Japanese saw that I use for dovetailing.

    If you were buying one saw to rule them all (except dovetailing and breaking down stock), what would it be? The dovetail saw is nowhere near aggressive enough for 'not dovetails.' I generally use machines when it helps, but still use hand tools more than your average bear.

    You're throwing one saw in your tool box for everything besides dovetailing. What would it be?

  2. #2
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    My very favorite is the 240mm Razor saw with removable handle and replaceable blades. Been using them for decades.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  3. #3
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    Like asking for which chisel is best if I can only buy one. My default would be a Ryobi style Japanese saw which comes with cross cut teeth on one side and rip on the other.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Coers View Post
    Like asking for which chisel is best if I can only buy one..
    1/2” Lie Nielsen. Boomdone 🤷🏼*♂️

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Coers View Post
    Like asking for which chisel is best if I can only buy one. My default would be a Ryobi style Japanese saw which comes with cross cut teeth on one side and rip on the other.
    This is what I bring if I have some odd job that might require a saw.

  6. #6
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    Watch woodcraft,they have a japanese saws in their flyers

    This month is a gyokucho kataba razorsaw for $17
    and a hashiki flush cut for $24

    I had veritas 3 saw set which I sold because I enjoyed the Japanese saws more. I now have 4 which rounded out the set pretty well. All for about $100.

  7. #7
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    I use my LN carcass saw quite a bit. It’s my go-to “not dovetail saw” for joinery.
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Coers View Post
    Like asking for which chisel is best if I can only buy one. My default would be a Ryobi style Japanese saw which comes with cross cut teeth on one side and rip on the other.
    These offer great utility to those that like a pull saw. I could never get the hang of mine.
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  9. #9
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    Disston D-115....26", 7ppi..always ready to go to work.and the most comfortable handle in use. And..it is "only" 95 years old...
    A Planer? I'm the Planer, and this is what I use

  10. #10
    I use a japanese ryoba for over 90% of my hand sawing needs, especially if you consider non-woodworking home improvement tasks. Although the sides are described as rip or crosscut I sometimes use them more like coarse or fine, regardless of grain orientation. Also use on sheet goods and plastic. Currently using bear saw brand but have used several brands over the years and all are similar.

  11. #11
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    Why would I only have one? Backsaws have a similar box, but they're in one of the waterproof ones in the cubbies.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Tom M King; 06-23-2023 at 2:28 PM.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Coers View Post
    Like asking for which chisel is best if I can only buy one.
    Quote Originally Posted by James Jayko View Post
    1/2” Lie Nielsen. Boomdone ����*♂️
    Please post a link to a video of cutting a 1/4" mortise with a 1/2" chisel. Clearing waste between dovetails cut for 1/4" pins would also be interesting.

    There are likely more 1/4" chisels in my shop than many people have in their "full set" of chisels

    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M King View Post
    Why would I only have one?
    My answer is the same question.

    My Japanese saws are used for a few things. Most of my work is done using western saws.

    Work goes best when one doesn't try to limit themself to a single tool.

    For me, at a minimum, it would be a rip saw and a crosscut saw. Tooth count would depend on the work being done.

    jtk
    Last edited by Jim Koepke; 06-23-2023 at 12:26 PM.
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post
    Please post a link to a video of cutting a 1/4" mortise with a 1/2" chisel. Clearing waste between dovetails cut for 1/4" pins would also be interesting.
    If you have a 1/2” chisel you get 1/2” dovetail spacing!

  14. #14
    I don't have that many saws. The question of which ONE saw is tough. I would say I would pick my Bahco Prizecut Universal
    https://www.bahco.com/int_en/prizecu...ls-pb_np_.html
    Just a good all around saw, not for joinery but I could get things small enough, down to a manageable size to where the chisels could take over.
    Last edited by Bruce Page; 06-25-2023 at 8:31 PM.

  15. #15
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    Hate to start a whole new thread, but what if you already have a section of backsaws. I like the small Dozuki and other back braced pull saws, but do not like the Ryoba saws as I have a hard time controlling the cut as they seem too floppy and flexible to me.

    Thinking of trying something like a dovetail and a sash saw in a western style back saw. How do you decide between say a Gramercy dovetail and sash saw versus say a Bad Axe dovetail and sash saw. Or, do you go with something like a Lie Nielsen dovetail, crosscut and tenon saws instead. I'm in the same boat of looking for some direction on where to start with a first back saws.
    Last edited by Greg Parrish; 06-23-2023 at 3:31 PM.

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