Chamfering tools

[Eric Brown]

Here is a group of various hand chamfering tools. The most basic is the draw knife. However it can be difficult to regulate the depth consistently. So various makers, like Chandler, Hoage, Goodell made attachable gages to regulate the depth. These are good for quick, somewhat rough work. Better are the shave tools with a mouth. Stanley was one of the first metal ones with the model #65. It has adjustable fences that can be removed making it a regular shave (with round bottom). Union Tool also had a couple models of their spokeshaves that had movable fences, however, the bottom of these shaves is flat, limiting their ability to make stopped chamfers. There is also a German one that was probably used in a lumber yard for quick edge breaking. Probably the best in my little collection is the Preston with an adjuster for the cutter.


Chamfering Tools Top.jpg

Chamfering Tools Bottom.jpg

[Jim Koepke]

Nice assortment of tools Eric.

Possibly before the metal chamfering tools came along there were dedicated chamfering planes:

Chamfer Planes.jpg

They do well the one thing they were made to do:

Comparison.jpg

These two were picked up over the years of my buying molding planes.

jtk

[Eric Brown]

Nice assortment of tools Eric.

Possibly before the metal chamfering tools came along there were dedicated chamfering planes:

Chamfer Planes.jpg

They do well the one thing they were made to do:

Comparison.jpg

These two were picked up over the years of my buying molding planes.

jtk

Yes, there are planes designed to chamfer. And while they work fine they are not able to make stopped chamfers very well. I have seen on E-Bay a 3-D printed replacement for the adjustable mouth on some Stanley planes, but it is limited to a set width.

[Stephen Rosenthal]

Interesting assortment of chamfer tools, Eric. The Preston is especially intriguing. Probably the most ubiquitous of the woodies is the adjustable box chamfer plane by various British plane makers. Leach usually has one on his monthly tool list. I have three chamfer tools - drawknife with gages and measuring bar, Stanley #65 spokeshave, and Stanley #72 chamfer plane. My favorite is the #72. It’s much easier to set up than the #65 and is virtually foolproof. The #65 is best (only one?) for stopped chamfers. I know a lot of people use a block plane, but I’ve never been able to produce acceptable chamfers with it except short and shallow ones.

[Eric Brown]

Interesting assortment of chamfer tools, Eric. The Preston is especially intriguing. Probably the most ubiquitous of the woodies is the adjustable box chamfer plane by various British plane makers. Leach usually has one on his monthly tool list. I have three chamfer tools - drawknife with gages and measuring bar, Stanley #65 spokeshave, and Stanley #72 chamfer plane. My favorite is the #72. It’s much easier to set up than the #65 and is virtually foolproof. The #65 is best (only one?) for stopped chamfers. I know a lot of people use a block plane, but I’ve never been able to produce acceptable chamfers with it except short and shallow ones.

Thanks. The main issue with stopped chamfers is the blade width (with draw knives) and how "round" the spokeshave is. Hand planes are too long. Even the little ones. (Just my opinion). The round spokeshaves like the Millers Falls cigar shave work well, but the M-F can be fussy. The best, no longer made, was made by WoodJoy with a 5/8" body. The Preston chamfer shave has to body behind the blade giving it a short radius. The Stanley 65 and others like it are pretty good with a slightly larger radius. Drawknives can work well but if chamfering four corners grain direction could cause tearout issues. Thats why I like shaves with mouths. Less tear-out. Of course you can use riven wood for the straightest grain too.

[Tony Zaffuto]

Lee Valley had a chamfering attachment for their low angle block plane. It replaced the adjustable part of the sole just ahead of the blade and was adjustable for width. I have one and it works well. Minor quibble is it is made from aluminum and a leave streaks, but I cover with tape.

So, I have a Stanley 65, the Preston equivalent and the Lee Valley. What do Iuse? Invariably, just the block plane always at hand!