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Thread: Installing a new solid wood floor.

  1. #1
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    Installing a new solid wood floor.

    I have order flooring from Baird brothers due in @ mid August, getting estimate from installers. I have a question about thresholds and how they mate with the mainb floor. I've never done this so no idea if what I think is overkill vs what they are suggesting.

    Install is in a 1950's floor and will be over a 1 x 6 pine subfloor. Subfloor is in good condition. The opening into the kitchen will have a square edged threshold piece I have purchased from Baird, prefinished, and will cut down to size on width. I plan to have them install this up to the edge of the vinyl flooring(gray) and then I have some 5/8" quarter round to cover the edge of the vinyl. The back of the transition piece comes solid and the end of the flooring will be installed with the tongue on the flooring facing the back of this edge. One company suggested nailing down the flooring, but just butting into the back of the threshold which they plan to put down with adhesive and a few face nails. Should I be concerned about height difference over time? Should I make them cut a groove in the back of the threshold so the tongue on the end of the flooring can set into this groove mechanically locking everything together? Seems to me this is the way it should be done?

    Thanks.

    Brian

    Kitchen.jpg
    Brian

  2. #2
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    I just nail them through the finished floor into the subfloor with what amounts to very long nails, 3-5 inches, properly countersunk.
    Regards,

    Tom

  3. #3
    It will be hard to tip the grooved threshold into place between the flooring field and the kitchen floor if the t&g fit is at all tight. Gluing and nailing will be fine.

    I would concentrate on minimizing the transition height. 5/8" is a lot, too much for using a walker or wheelchair. ADA calls for a maximum 1/2" threshold height on new construction with a beveled slope when greater than 1/4" high. If possible have them rabbet the threshold over the vinyl and keep the threshold height to a minimum. They should have metal transition pieces available as well which can be nailed down over the transition.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Jenness View Post
    It will be hard to tip the grooved threshold into place between the flooring field and the kitchen floor if the t&g fit is at all tight. Gluing and nailing will be fine.

    I would concentrate on minimizing the transition height. 5/8" is a lot, too much for using a walker or wheelchair. ADA calls for a maximum 1/2" threshold height on new construction with a beveled slope when greater than 1/4" high. If possible have them rabbet the threshold over the vinyl and keep the threshold height to a minimum. They should have metal transition pieces available as well which can be nailed down over the transition.
    Threshold has to start at 3/4, but if I use the taper how do I cover the edge of the vinyl? I don't want to put the threshold transition over the vinyl and then have to pull this up when it is time to replace the vinyl. Once the floor is down I don't want to disturb it. I have ordered some 3/8" quarter round with the material. I could mill a piece of maple 3/4" with a bevel down to say 5/8" and then use the 3/8" quarter round? thanks brian
    Brian

  5. #5
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    I don’t mind a bit of contrast in color or species when making a transition especially if there is any elevation change. You can try making your own transition matching the species and a close color or total contrast with a different type. I also screw and plug with dark plugs, finishing in place. Your floor, your choice.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Runau View Post
    Threshold has to start at 3/4, but if I use the taper how do I cover the edge of the vinyl? I don't want to put the threshold transition over the vinyl and then have to pull this up when it is time to replace the vinyl. Once the floor is down I don't want to disturb it. I have ordered some 3/8" quarter round with the material. I could mill a piece of maple 3/4" with a bevel down to say 5/8" and then use the 3/8" quarter round? thanks brian
    Maybe you could post an elevation sketch showing the relative finshed floor heights. The transition may not seem like a big deal but can be a real tripping hazard for older people with walkers or balance issues. If the threshold needs to be more than 1/4" above the vinyl it would be better to make a beveled transition than to use quarter round.

    Your photo suggests that the two floors are nearly level. If that is the case a low metal transition piece covering the joint may make sense.

    It would be a good idea to make sure the subfloor is securely fastened while it is exposed, hammering down loose nails and adding more nails or screws if needed. I just got through overseeing a similar project and was able to eliminate a number of troublesome squeaks that way. The floor mechanic would not have done it left to his own devices.
    Last edited by Kevin Jenness; 07-12-2023 at 12:40 PM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Jenness View Post
    Maybe you could post an elevation sketch showing the relative finshed floor heights. The transition may not seem like a big deal but can be a real tripping hazard for older people with walkers or balance issues. If the threshold needs to be more than 1/4" above the vinyl it would be better to make a beveled transition than to use quarter round.

    Your photo suggests that the two floors are nearly level. If that is the case a low metal transition piece covering the joint may make sense.

    It would be a good idea to make sure the subfloor is securely fastened while it is exposed, hammering down loose nails and adding more nails or screws if needed. I just got through overseeing a similar project and was able to eliminate a number of troublesome squeaks that way. The floor mechanic would not have done it left to his own devices.
    The oak flooring you see in the pic is 1/4" thick and 70 years old. It is being removed and replaced with the 3/4" thick maple flooring. Brian

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Runau View Post
    The oak flooring you see in the pic is 1/4" thick and 70 years old. It is being removed and replaced with the 3/4" thick maple flooring. Brian
    1/4"! That's surprising. If it were my floor I would make a threshold flush with new floor, rabbeted over the vinyl and tapered down to 1/8", and screwed and plugged to allow for removing it in the future to replace the kitchen floor. Otherwise, make a beveled transition piece nailed over the vinyl.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Jenness View Post
    1/4"! That's surprising. If it were my floor I would make a threshold flush with new floor, rabbeted over the vinyl and tapered down to 1/8", and screwed and plugged to allow for removing it in the future to replace the kitchen floor. Otherwise, make a beveled transition piece nailed over the vinyl.
    In the 1950's they were starting to use plywood and this strip flooring, face nailed, to save money on new home builds. New threshold will be flush with new maple flooring, but @ 3/4" higher than the vinyl. No way to avoid it. Brian

  10. #10
    5/16" face nailed flooring has been around a long time, & not really any different in price than 3/4".

    I agree with what Kevin says above- tapered, rabbetted over the vinyl, except that I wouldn't worry about making it removable- just nail or screw it down.

    Using quarter round or something to make a multiple piece transition sounds like a bad idea.

    I would just make a piece to fit using a piece of the flooring, and stain/finish to match. Usually there are several different transitions and trim- bathroom, living room, french door threshholds, etc. - a few minutes each on the table saw and some planing/sanding.

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