Table Saw Upgrade advice

[Cameron Wood]

I looked (online) at the Incra fence that you're wanting, and read a bunch of reviews. Personally, I'm not a fan of overly complicated equipment, have never found even a basic fence mounted measuring system (tape and pointer) to work for long, and figure 80% of cuts on the tablesaw are more utility then precision. YMMV.

The issues for me would be:
- The fence arm sticks out to the right of the saw, so if it's set up for wide cut, or just pushed out of the way, it interferes with getting around the saw to the right- an issue in a small shop.
- The fence assembly covers the saw table to the right, which is valuable real estate for stacking multiple parts.
- Locking the fence in place is a two part operation which would be way annoying for me, and mentioned by multiple reviewers.


This Amazon review I thought put it well:

"I will say that I am extremely impressed with how accurate and sturdy this fence is.
You honestly won't find a more accurate fence on the market - it's truly all that it's cracked up to be. I also found the installation and calibration to be fairly quick and simple.
However, there are some significant costs/sacrifices to make for this incredible accuracy that should be taken into consideration.
As many other reviewers have pointed out, the center arm takes up valuable shop real-estate when you move the fence to the right. For me, I had re-arrange my whole shop to accommodate for the arm to extend out. It also takes some getting used to walking further to the right to adjust the fence (it's a 34 year old habit for me).
Some additional draw-backs that other reviewers didn't point out are as follows:
1) The fence arm also takes up valuable table-saw-TOP real-estate to the right of the fence. I often rip a great number of pieces and after each cut, I stack the cut piece on the table-saw-top to the right of the fence. With the arm running across the center of the table, it takes away this valuable stacking area.
2) The "sight-glass" often gets dusty and makes it hard to see the ruler below. It's more enclosed than a standard fence and I often need to use compressed air to clean it out or remove the fence to wipe the underside of the glass (plastic).
3) When making narrow cuts, I like to keep as many fingers as possible away from the blade by keeping them over the other side of (or on top of) the fence. With the center arm attaching to the right of the fence, I sometimes have to maneuver my fingers around it (yes, I know I should probably use a push-stick).
4) Although it's rare to need to set a fence to the LEFT of the blade, sometimes it's beneficial, or a must. With the Incra fence, this is not really an option.

For the sacrifices, I give it 2 out of 5 stars, but the incredible accuracy brings me to the 4 star final rating.

If you demand extreme accuracy and have plenty of shop space to allow for the arm to extend - this is the fence system for you.

For me, I love the accuracy, but I think I'm ready to "trade down" to a nice old-school Biesemeyer style fence."




Also, reviews of the Incra router table attached to the table saw are rather low, so I would look closely at that.


Good luck getting a great shop set up!

[Greg Parrish]

And that right there is why I say “to each their own”. LOL. The right fence or tool is different for everyone. I’m hopeful I don’t find these items to be deal killers for me after some use with the TS-LS. I sold my floating overarm dust system and my folding outfeed table, but plan to hang onto my T-Glide fence for a while just in case. Will just have to store it somewhere.

I looked (online) at the Incra fence that you're wanting, and read a bunch of reviews. Personally, I'm not a fan of overly complicated equipment, have never found even a basic fence mounted measuring system (tape and pointer) to work for long, and figure 80% of cuts on the tablesaw are more utility then precision. YMMV.

The issues for me would be:
- The fence arm sticks out to the right of the saw, so if it's set up for wide cut, or just pushed out of the way, it interferes with getting around the saw to the right- an issue in a small shop.
- The fence assembly covers the saw table to the right, which is valuable real estate for stacking multiple parts.
- Locking the fence in place is a two part operation which would be way annoying for me, and mentioned by multiple reviewers.


This Amazon review I thought put it well:

"I will say that I am extremely impressed with how accurate and sturdy this fence is.
You honestly won't find a more accurate fence on the market - it's truly all that it's cracked up to be. I also found the installation and calibration to be fairly quick and simple.
However, there are some significant costs/sacrifices to make for this incredible accuracy that should be taken into consideration.
As many other reviewers have pointed out, the center arm takes up valuable shop real-estate when you move the fence to the right. For me, I had re-arrange my whole shop to accommodate for the arm to extend out. It also takes some getting used to walking further to the right to adjust the fence (it's a 34 year old habit for me).
Some additional draw-backs that other reviewers didn't point out are as follows:
1) The fence arm also takes up valuable table-saw-TOP real-estate to the right of the fence. I often rip a great number of pieces and after each cut, I stack the cut piece on the table-saw-top to the right of the fence. With the arm running across the center of the table, it takes away this valuable stacking area.
2) The "sight-glass" often gets dusty and makes it hard to see the ruler below. It's more enclosed than a standard fence and I often need to use compressed air to clean it out or remove the fence to wipe the underside of the glass (plastic).
3) When making narrow cuts, I like to keep as many fingers as possible away from the blade by keeping them over the other side of (or on top of) the fence. With the center arm attaching to the right of the fence, I sometimes have to maneuver my fingers around it (yes, I know I should probably use a push-stick).
4) Although it's rare to need to set a fence to the LEFT of the blade, sometimes it's beneficial, or a must. With the Incra fence, this is not really an option.

For the sacrifices, I give it 2 out of 5 stars, but the incredible accuracy brings me to the 4 star final rating.

If you demand extreme accuracy and have plenty of shop space to allow for the arm to extend - this is the fence system for you.

For me, I love the accuracy, but I think I'm ready to "trade down" to a nice old-school Biesemeyer style fence."




Also, reviews of the Incra router table attached to the table saw are rather low, so I would look closely at that.


Good luck getting a great shop set up!

[Brian Vidler]

If I decide to go the route of an older Unisaw type saw. Besides using this method for the bevel cuts, is the shark guard the best option to a riving knife for general safety? I’ve seen some people have machined a piece to add a riving knife on a unisaw. I don’t have that ability!

[Bill Dufour]

Do more modern Unisaws still use a custom motor mount or will a NEMA motor bolt up.

[Marc Fenneuff]

All Unisaws until 2006 used a proprietary motor.

The Delta dissappearing splitter is still available and a good choice. So is a Shark Guard.

Vintage Unisaws and PM66s can be a good deal but you have to know what to look for and be prepared to make repairs before you make sawdust.

[Ronald Blue]

There is a Grizzly G0651 with the long rails and a 4" shark guard for $900 in New Hampshire. It's on FB presumably in Marketplace. It's in the "Everything Used Woodworking Tools For Sale or Trade" group. Mont Vernon NH. I know it would be a road trip but sometimes there are things worth the trouble. Also has an outfeed table. I'd check Market Place first or join the group if you are on FB.

[Russell Hayes]

I have a uni clone Grizzly and have the shark guard delta ark package. I use it on every cut that I can. Set up is like 30 seconds once you get used to it. I had never used any type of blade guard or splitter and I must say I really adapted to it quickly. I like the feel of the wood against the splitter as it passes the blade. My under table DC is excellent but the shark probably catches a little bit, I mostly really like the plastic between my fingers and the blade. Was $370 couple of years ago.