looking for recommendations for a cheap durable shopknife

[Richard Coers]

Fairly easy to sharpen means that there are no concavities or a handle that interferes with the blades contact to the stone (or makes it akward to sharpen). If it is a straght or lightly convex blade, i can put an edge on it. Im not set up for concave or hollows

Thanks. You have plenty of options. I just don't know how to help when specifications are listed in general terms. Don't break the bank is the worst one.

[Joe A Faulkner]

You might want to consider the batoning chisel for riving work: https://www.leevalley.com/en-gb/shop...atoning-chisel

[James Pallas]

The “folding” part of your requirements makes this very difficult. For 90% of my marking requirements I use reground mill knives. When away from the bench I sometimes use one of those small Stanley folding knives. I always have my Victorinox SD in my pocket which can stand in marking but also has tweezer and small scissors which are very handy. I do keep a hawksbill at the bench (I was taught to call them a linoleum knife). I guess I should say I don’t have problems marking dovetails with the right and left ground mill knives because I’m one of those rare people that do pins first. You can pretty much beat on those mill knives anyway you like. I also have Lee Valley Batoning chisels, perhaps the most dangerous tool in the kit. Only get them out to do a particular task and put them away.
Jim

[Assaf Oppenheimer]

jeez, I cut my fingers on the sides of my chisels enough as it is. no thank you!

[Edward Weber]

You might want to consider the batoning chisel for riving work: https://www.leevalley.com/en-gb/shop...atoning-chisel

Thats the same type of tool that came to my mind
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-...4029&gclsrc=ds

[George Yetka]

Hey George, you may have missed the part about "cheap!!" I doubt $272 qualifies.

You may be right. The one I spoke of sells for $135 now. I got mine at $85. But still not the cheepest.

[steven c newman]

Those Mill Knives....I used to work in a factory that made rubber hose....Anf they made their own rubber compounds in a Banburry Intermixer....that when done with a batch, it would drop it down onto a roller Mill...Then we'd take the still HOT compound off the mill in 2 strips for the extrudes to use. Cut and roll to keep feeding the area where the strips were leaving the mill, we'd use the Mill Knife....it also came in handy to cut open the bags of fillers required in each batch...along with the opening of the Nordel boxes with the rubber bales inside...EPDM, SBR, and the like...we also did a "Master Batch" on the fuel line compounds....run the batch through once, without the "Cure", let it sit a day, then load the batch back into a tub with the "Cures" and run it through the mixer again....Used the mill knife to cut the rolls of Master Batch to weight, as there MIGHT 4-6 batches in one strip (12" wide)

22 years of this...and now I have COPD in the right lung.....