Air compressor tank auto drain

[Jim Becker]

What I dont like about the autodrains is they all seam to be setup for constant run systems. I would like something that drains every 10 min of run time ideally. My home compressor isnt an issue because I can set it to work when compressor works both being 110. My work one is 3ph 208.

I agree...I've been considering putting mine on a regular timer so it's off for a lot longer time period than the 45 minute maximum native to the device.

[Bruce Page]

I added a simple power switch to my ADV to power the ADV when needed. I did not care for the automatic cycling which can be loud and startling in a small garage shop. YMMV

[Bill Dufour]

I know for AC intake they recommend a motorcycle muffler. You could add one to the drain vent hose. I added. an oil bath air cleaner to my ac intake. I figure it quiets the intake and oils the valves.
I drilled a hole through an outside wall and vent the auto drain under a tree.
Bill D

[Malcolm McLeod]

I added a simple power switch to my ADV to power the ADV when needed. I did not care for the automatic cycling which can be loud and startling in a small garage shop. YMMV

You can also power the ADV off of the shop's lighting circuit. It won't bleed down when you're not there.

Another option is to power the ADV off the switched side of the AC motor power. This requires some wiring surgery, but cycling quits when the motor stops; likely you will only 'vent' once per pressure cycle in typical hobby usage.

See sintered bronze filter/muffler for noise.

[Patrick McCarthy]

I bought a California Air compressor because of the low sound ratings. I added an auto-drain and it works great but it makes terribly loud noise when it fires.

Mike, mine had a shot like sound when at the factory default setting of 0.5 second, but when i moved it to approx 1 1/2 seconds i now get just a psssstt sound; much less startling.

[Patrick McCarthy]

I added a simple power switch to my ADV to power the ADV when needed. I did not care for the automatic cycling which can be loud and startling in a small garage shop. YMMV

Bruce, what type of power switch? Is it like surge protector strip that you can just turn off? Or it a different set-up?

BTW, i copied your brilliant idea of running the discharge drain tube into a 5 gal container, but did low tech zip ties to keep the hose from whipping out with each discharge. Yours is much more elegant.

Thank you, Patrick

[Bruce Page]

Thanks Patrick. The switch is just a simple lighted rocker switch.

[David Dille]

This is a puzzler to me. I had a 20 gallon Cambell-Hasfield for nearly 30 years. Would drain it about once per year. Mostly just a very tiny bit of moisture. Sold it 6 years ago but I know the guy. So this almost 40 year old compressor is still working fine without being drained constantly. My current compressor is a 30 gal oil. The drain plug for it, is not on the absolute bottom so I can’t drain it completely. When I do pop the cock, all I get is a tiny, tiny bit of oily mist. When I was young, about a thousand years ago, I worked in a Cat shop. We had several huge compressors. One was a 12.5 hp, the other a 10 hp. Huge tanks. I asked the head mechanic about draining them and he just laughed and said sure, if you can get to the drain, go for it. Well, I couldn’t get to the drains.

I did seismic drilling up on the North Slope of the Brooks Range in the very early 80’s and one year, we used what they call mud guns out on the ice of the Beaufort Sea. Seven stage compressors with a 7500 psi charge. I could see those taking out a house but it’s hard to believe a tiny shop compressor, maybe 20 gal, 2 hp, could rupture a tank enough to take out garage walls, just not enough volume, but hey, what do I know.

Anyway, I just don’t think it’s a huge deal. Again, totally unsupported opinion. Just based on my own 50 years of experience but certainly, err on the side of caution. 😀