How to safely cut this?

[Michael Rutman]

Kapax or equivalent miter saw with depth stops. Start with a square piece and set the compound miter to the right angles and cut the vertical slots. Rotate to the side and cut the horizontal. Rotate again to cut all the way through to get the angles.

You will need to clamp it to a waste board for some if not all of your cuts.

[John Kananis]

You can make two at a time and keep the integrity (strength) of the handle. Cutting many from one long board will give you short grained handles - I promise they'll break eventually.

Cut stock to length x2 plus the blade kerf of the final pass that will separate the two.

Next, cut the bevels by whatever method is comfortable to you, tenon jig on the ts works great.

After the bevels are cut, install a dado blade. Using a sled, remove the waste from "both" pulls (I would remove the center waste first since it's the highest point and missing adjacent material could but probably wouldn't cause an issue).

Install a normal ts combo or crosscut blade and cut through the center for 2 drawer pulls.

Thinking about it, you can cut many from a single board this way but the stock is perpendicular to the blade so think about right and left space. Also, 1 cut on identical stock is less margin of error. Good luck.

[Jason White]

I’d use my bandsaw.

[Steve Demuth]

Due respect to all the great ideas, but almost all of these ideas will end up with the grain running in the wrong direction. There is a high likelihood some of your tenons will snap when you pull on them.

I made a case with dovetailed drawer pulls that snapped because of this. Your grain - for that tenon needs to run perpendicular to the drawer face - not parallel to it (as most of these suggestions would end up with).

you are better off doing a glued up drawer pull with the grain running in the right direction.

Good point, but running the grain perpendicular to the drawer front means you have end grain on the most visible surfaces of the pull, which isn't likely to be the look you want.

If the wood of the pulls isn't sufficiently split resistant (and other than maybe elm, I don't know what would be), then I'd still cut the pulls with the long grain across the drawer front, and embed dowels through the drawer into the pull, and upward from the bottom of the pull toward the bevel, to prevent splitting.

[Prashun Patel]

The taper will reduce the stark end grain (if you find it stark).

I did it in my closet and imho it looks better and more intentional than long grain.

I never understood why people don’t like to “show their end grain”.

[tim walker]

So I ended up cutting the taper on the TS from a square block of wood (mesquite in this case). Then I moved to the router table. My piece of wood is about 12" long. Routed out the interior portions to dimensions, leaving the front portion and rear at the same heights. Then carefully removed the last back portion easily on the router. Pic to follow.