[OP]
Contributor
I have noticed recently that my zero clearance throat plate hasn't been sitting flat. I have check for debris, cleaned it well and adjusted the set screws. As soon as I get one adjusted flat to the top, the other one is funky and not flush. And when i slide my fence over it grabs at the edge. I noticed this recently as I was having a hard time getting it to go in. The plate for dado's fits just fine. Its almost like it is warped. Any suggestions from you SawStop owners. 52" PCS
Tim in Hill Country of Texas
Contributor
Make your own out of plywood.
Contributor
Turn plate upside down on saw top, and check to see if it's warped. If it rocks, it's warped.
Contributor
Make a dozen while you're at it. It doesn't take that much extra effort.Originally Posted by Jason White
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon
Contributor
Making a SawStop plate out of plywood is not the trivial task it is with most saws. There are recesses machined into the bottom side that complicate things.
+1 on these. The phenolic (or whatever it is) is pretty stable and not prone to warp. Despite this I would check for warping first. If the set screws can't get it in plane the insert almost has to be warped.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Contributor
Agreed. It’s like they suggested it but didn’t do it. I actually designed mine in CAD and milled them on my CNC. Including all the necessary voids. There isn’t any “plywood” dimension either. Mine run 0.68” so I use hardwood. That said, I still prefer the phenolic versions from SawStop unless I really need exactly ZERO clearance all around.
OP they shouldn’t warp but suggestions above are good advice. If it is warped, call SawStop, I bet they’ll replace it.
[OP]
Contributor
So I discovered the issue. Some how the two rear most hold down screws and moved for whatever reason. On the SS the throat plate has two set screws that go underneath the hold down screws (effectively preventing the blade from flying off at that point). After adjusting these the throat fits nicely and within .001" of the table top. Thanks Bruce Wrenn for the tip on just turning it upside down to test for warpage. Guess the one I ordered will just have to be returned or used as a backup at some point.
Tim in Hill Country of Texas
Contributor
id make your own inserts 3/4 baltic router below as needed simple and quality make five at a time so you have them router for the blade clearance below. Im sure the metal original from the SCM is not straight and the ply supplied with the saw thinner ply are warped as well. I had to hand plane the one in it now and its still not perfect but good enough.
Contributor
If anyone is a Fine Woodworking digital member, the 2016 Tools and Shop issue has an article on shop fabricating a SawStop ZCI -- including measurements -- last page of this pdf:
https://www.finewoodworking.com/memb.../011251058.pdf
[OP]
Contributor
Actually the OEM supplied throat is a phenolic resin and probably molded
Tim in Hill Country of Texas
Moderator
SawStop is different and the throat plates latch in with a lever that's part of the throat plate and cannot move.
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Contributor
lets see one
Contributor
I designed my own in Vectric with all the cavities and even inserts for the set screws. The one piece missing is the metal lever, which I really like. It’s on my todo list, then I can try milling phenolic, which will be a new experience for me.
Contributor
No, it is machined from flat stock.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote