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Thread: Walnut, BLO, Shellac, EM8000

  1. #1

    Walnut, BLO, Shellac, EM8000

    I am finishing a walnut sofa table that I made. I applied boiled linseed oil let that dry for a long time, then I applied 2 thin coats of shellac and that is where I am right now.

    The next step is to spray the EM8000 but would like some advice on the correct steps. Should I give the shellac a light sanding with 400 grit? What do I wipe that down with after sanding? Should I sand between coats of EM8000?

    Your input is greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    854
    Run your hands over the shellac surface, if it feels rough, use steel wools to smooth it out.

    I've never used EM8000, however, since it sounds like a commercial product, just follow the manufacturer's instructions. What to use to wipe the surface should also be in the instructions.

    Rafael

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Crozet, VA
    Posts
    648
    EM8000 is a waterborne product, so I would definitely not recommend using steel wool. A fine grit sand paper (like 320 or 400) is fine, or a synthetic pad. You can just wipe off any sanding dust with a microfiber cloth.

    I would lightly sand between coats of EM8000 with 400 or 600 grit paper. Also, if you haven’t practiced spraying the EM8000 I would highly recommend doing some test pieces to get everything dialed in before you tackle the table.
    There is a very fine line between “hobby” and “mental illness.” - Dave Barry

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,923
    I generally do give the wax free shellac a quick touch with 320 or 400 to knock off any finish defects that are large. Once you spray a coat of two of the EM8000cv afterward, do the same to knock off any spraying defects before you proceed to your final coat(s). As always, thoroughly clean off any abrasion residue before spraying next coats.

    Tom is correct about never using steel wool if you are employing waterborne finishes. Synthetic pads are fine, however...I keep a white one handy for any between coat adjustments that don't justify using the 320/400 paper.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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