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Thread: First CNC

  1. #16
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    Yea I was very impressed they offered a 2.2Kw, 240V spindle and all the needed items for less than 1k. That seems very reasonable to me.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Burnside View Post
    Yea I was very impressed they offered a 2.2Kw, 240V spindle and all the needed items for less than 1k. That seems very reasonable to me.

    Chris Edwards posted on a somewhat recent thread about the spindle setup he put on his 1F. It was a fantastic price. I will look for that post.

    Found it. Chris replied on my thread on setting up my 1F Elite. Here's that link.
    Last edited by Brian Tymchak; 09-06-2023 at 1:19 PM.
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Tymchak View Post
    Pwncnc is also very close to having an auto tool changer product for 1F, and probably other, brand machines. There was a link to a short video showing it going thru its paces, but the video has since been taken down. When I upgrade to spindle from router, I hope to go all the way to ATC as well.
    If you can't get all the way to ATC because of cost or integration complications, if you can at least get to automatic tool measurement like I have on my Camaster machine, you will be in a nice place. I still have to physically change the tools, but once I tighten the collet, I push a button and the machine measures and then cuts the toolpaths that use that tool. Yea, I have to carefully manage toolpath order, but...they can all be in the same output file. The machine pauses when a change is required, I do the change, it does the measure-measure thing and then makes more mess. Rinse and repeat until it's done.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #19
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    Very true Jim. I love the tool height sensor on my CNC as well. I'm not a production shop and I like to keep it simple, so I decided to skip out on an ATC and the tool height is actually pretty fast. Much faster compared to the "touch plates" people use to set their xyz and you don't have to worry about whether or not you're using the spoilboard or job surface of your z.

  5. #20
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    I had a setup sensor for mine but since its wall mounted It was impossible to get it to stay without losing a finger.

  6. #21
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    One of my friends has a Digital Wood Carver and he really likes it. I just talked to them Friday and looked at the two smaller units at their booth at the 2023 Loggers Congress in Escanaba. Seem to be a nice unit with a laser that can also mount on the unit. The laser can cut as well as engrave. They offer the normal software and then you can upgrade to the pro version for the difference in cost when you are ready.
    Thank you,

    Rich Aldrich

    65 miles SE of Steve Schlumpf.

    "To a pessimist, the glass is half empty; to an optimist, the glass is half full; to an engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be." Unknown author



  7. #22
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    PwnCNC just released a video showing their tool changer. It's in the last third of the video.


    https://youtu.be/IFOkSZM4JEs?si=6Ew4pXiDCISCG2N1
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  8. #23
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    That's pretty cool. I noticed that OneFinity have a "tool height setter" coming soon for the new elite series. IMHO if you don't need a tool changer and all that goes with it, this is a better solution. Less complex, dead simple and quick. Jim and I have them on our CNCs and really for a few tool changes on a given project, it's minimal work without the hassle, maintenance and complexity a tool changer with 5-8 tools require. I'm not a production shop, so I understand my perspective may be biased in that regard.

    Also, if you're going through the second process outlined in the vid, you're doing it wrong LOL. Grab yourself an STI z-setter (or cheaper if you want but STI is my go-to for setting initial Z), setup your post processor to return to Z+1.5,X0Y0 (or X<park>Y<park>), add new tool, jog down, set z. It should literally take less than 10 seconds tops. Not quite as fast as the auto tool-height setter, but darn close.

  9. #24
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    I do all my tool setting manually. It is faster than 15 seconds. A tool changer would be nice but programming a tool change couldnt go much faster than manually setting a z height. If I were doing repetitive jobs it would be different. but everything I do is 1 off.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by George Yetka View Post
    I do all my tool setting manually. It is faster than 15 seconds. A tool changer would be nice but programming a tool change couldnt go much faster than manually setting a z height. If I were doing repetitive jobs it would be different. but everything I do is 1 off.
    That’s my feeling as well. Everything I do is one-off. I have the Fast-Tool-Change option on my Stinger but other than playing with it after the machine was delivered and set up, I haven’t used it since.
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  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Page View Post
    That’s my feeling as well. Everything I do is one-off. I have the Fast-Tool-Change option on my Stinger but other than playing with it after the machine was delivered and set up, I haven’t used it since.
    A lot of the files I create us 2, 3, 4 and sometimes more actual tools, so being able to create one cut file and let it run while prompting me to change to the next physical tool, is pleasing to me. It also forces me to carefully consider order of operation so that if I use a particular tool, it's only going into a collet once if at all possible. Sometimes it's just not possible, but that's rare, and usually because of, say...the need to use a .25" endmill for roughing something or pocketing, etc., that has to be done long before the final cut out with other machining in between. Even if I'm using one tool, I start the file and other than hitting "enter" a couple of times, it's nice that the tool gets measured and the cut gets made without my need to deal with a puck, etc. In full disclosure, the methods I use do require me to carefully measure material thickness because I reference top of table for Z. But everyone works differently. I only mentioned the FTC earlier because it's a valid alternative to an expensive and complicated auto tool changer which isn't much of a thing in the current world on small machines.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  12. #27
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    I completely agree with you Jim. The argument about projects being one-off don't make much sense to me, pretty much all of my CNC projects are custom furniture related or one-off items but having the option to use an FTC and/or organizing my tooling order of operations to make the most of it, add considerable time value if nothing else. It's pretty much second nature for me now.

  13. #28
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    Hey! I just took the leap and got a CNC this weekend. As part of an estate sale, I got a great deal on a Shark HD510, with a ton accessories. I need to learn the basics of how to get started, but I'm bookmarking this thread for future reference. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'd like to sell a few things (as a side gig, at least to recoup my investment to make my wife happy , so any suggestions would be welcomed. Thanks.
    Ernie Hobbs
    Winston-Salem, NC

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ernie Hobbs View Post
    Hey! I just took the leap and got a CNC this weekend. As part of an estate sale, I got a great deal on a Shark HD510, with a ton accessories. I need to learn the basics of how to get started, but I'm bookmarking this thread for future reference. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'd like to sell a few things (as a side gig, at least to recoup my investment to make my wife happy , so any suggestions would be welcomed. Thanks.
    Ernie, I found the easiest way for me to learn was to start simple. My first project was a simple engraving with 1 v-carved tool path. After that I added a profile cut to my second(I engraved a project and cut it out). Third project I made a tray. It had 3 tool paths( I pocketed the bowl, engraved the bottom, and profile cut it. Next big step was vcarved inlays. It becomes much easier pretty quickly. You'll be on inlays in no time.

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by George Yetka View Post
    Ernie, I found the easiest way for me to learn was to start simple. My first project was a simple engraving with 1 v-carved tool path. After that I added a profile cut to my second(I engraved a project and cut it out). Third project I made a tray. It had 3 tool paths( I pocketed the bowl, engraved the bottom, and profile cut it. Next big step was vcarved inlays. It becomes much easier pretty quickly. You'll be on inlays in no time.
    I have to travel for work this week, but when I return, I was planning to get started with a simple house number to hang on my front porch. Then maybe I'll try a few simple signs. I'm not sure exactly what I want to do, ultimately, but I'll be looking for more complicated projects as I learn how. I've done several relief carvings and I thought some of those projects might be cool to duplicate with the CNC. There is a copy of Vcarve on a thumb drive with a license info, but when I tried to sign in, I got errors. I think it is registered to the former owner (who is no long living). I'll probably need to call Vectric- I'd really like to avoid spending $350 for a separate license.
    Last edited by Ernie Hobbs; 09-18-2023 at 2:03 PM.
    Ernie Hobbs
    Winston-Salem, NC

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