A method of mortising

[Christopher Charles]

Yes, I've seen those but never used them. I usually plow a groove and make wooden buttons. Oh, and good on 'ya for making furniture for benefit auction!

Best,
Chris

[Mike Allen1010]

Hand chopping more mortises. Sometimes, even when I stay exactly between my mortise gauge lines, I can get tearout along the edge. I tried knifing the lines but still I can get tearout. Usually the shoulders will hide the tearout. Perhaps I am chopping too aggressively. Does any else experience this & are there any solutions❓

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I thought that's what Tennon shoulders are for- covering ugly mortice margins!

BTW, table is beautiful - -something about clean simple lines that just appeals to the eye. Of course that requires comparable levels of execution for complete work. Well done!

[Jim R Edwards]

I start in the middle and work towards both ends. End cuts are only slicing cuts- no prying.

I do the same way as you. Works best for me.

[Mark Rainey]

I thought that's what Tennon shoulders are for- covering ugly mortice margins!

BTW, table is beautiful - -something about clean simple lines that just appeals to the eye. Of course that requires comparable levels of execution for complete work. Well done!

Thanks Mike! Many times I have been saved when my tenon shoulders cover up my tearout. Quartersawn stock isn’t always easy to have.

[Ben Ellenberger]

If the edges of a mortise will be visible, such as on a through mortise, I’ll often chop with a slightly under-sized chisel, then pare the last bit to get the final size. I agree with what other people have said about picking straight-grain wood to help get cleaner edges.

[Mark Rainey]

If the edges of a mortise will be visible, such as on a through mortise, I’ll often chop with a slightly under-sized chisel, then pare the last bit to get the final size. I agree with what other people have said about picking straight-grain wood to help get cleaner edges.

Good tip Ben.

[Tom Vanzant]

Tom King … I didn’t see your Lervad bench under that 20’ beam. ��

[Mark Rainey]

The mortising was the beginning

legs mortised.jpg

aprons.jpgleg and apron.jpgcutting dovetail rail.jpgdovetail rail done.jpgdovetail rail assembly.jpghot hide glue.jpg

[Mark Rainey]

Hand plane finish - no sand paper. Hammer veneering. More picturespartial glue up.jpghand planed finish.jpgleveling the top.jpghammer veneered front drawer .jpgalmost there.jpg

[Ben Ellenberger]

That is looking good!

[kenneth hatch]

Mark, Welcome to wood, and yes many times my morticses look rougher than I would like. Whatever they seem to work and not look too bad when finished. Maybe it is because I'm more of a "framer" than a "finish carpenter".

Hand chopping more mortises. Sometimes, even when I stay exactly between my mortise gauge lines, I can get tearout along the edge. I tried knifing the lines but still I can get tearout. Usually the shoulders will hide the tearout. Perhaps I am chopping too aggressively. Does any else experience this & are there any solutions❓

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[Tom Bender]

Really? you guys chop mortises without cutting the sides? You normally use very straight grained stock?

As a hobby worker with no schedule to meet, and because chopping mortises is pleasant work I carefully work down all edges at least 1/16" before going a little faster.

[mike stenson]

Like the tear-out when chopping dovetail waste.. it's going to be covered (most of the time in mortises), so I generally don't bother.

[Mark Rainey]

Really? you guys chop mortises without cutting the sides? You normally use very straight grained stock?

As a hobby worker with no schedule to meet, and because chopping mortises is pleasant work I carefully work down all edges at least 1/16" before going a little faster.

Tom, I also have been knifing the edges sometimes like you. It does seem to help

[Mark Rainey]

Like the tear-out when chopping dovetail waste.. it's going to be covered (most of the time in mortises), so I generally don't bother.

Yes Mike, most of the times my tear-out is covered!