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Thread: Jewelry Drawer Partitions

  1. #1
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    Jewelry Drawer Partitions

    I thought I posted this but must not have hit submit, so here we go again. I have a jewelry armoire that I am building that has six drawers. Approx 15" x 12" x 2 1/2" deep. I plan on putting partitions lines with with velvet paper on the bottom and sides of the partitions.

    My plan is to cut the notches for the partitions on the router table with a 1/4" straight bit (1/2" shank) using the INCRA LS positioner. The grooves or dados will be cut from a 6" x 1" board across the grain, then I plan on taking that and cutting 1/4" strips on the table saw. I know a lot of folks use the TS for the grooves and it may be faster, but I don't have a square tooth blade (only ATB).

    Does this sound a plausible way to cut these?

    Ashampoo_Snap_Thursday, August 31, 2023_13h36m07s_021_.jpg Ashampoo_Snap_Thursday, August 31, 2023_17h15m17s_022_.jpg
    Tim in Hill Country of Texas

  2. #2
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    I recently made a storage box for a chess set for my grandson. I used 1/8" plywood for the egg crate. I stacked all the horizontal pieces into a bundle that I secured with wraps of painters tape. I did the same thing to the vertical pieces. All of the notches were exactly half the total height of the partitions. I used a Freud LU73M10 blade on my table saw to cut the slots. It was the perfect blade for the 1/8" plywood from Woodcraft.
    IMG_8309.jpgIMG_8482.jpg

    If you use the ATB blade you have you should be able to square up the slots with the side of file pretty quickly.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by tim walker View Post
    ...
    My plan is to cut the notches for the partitions on the router table with a 1/4" straight bit (1/2" shank) using the INCRA LS positioner. The grooves or dados will be cut from a 6" x 1" board across the grain, then I plan on taking that and cutting 1/4" strips on the table saw. I know a lot of folks use the TS for the grooves and it may be faster, but I don't have a square tooth blade (only ATB).
    I think your process will work, as long as your board is dead flat when you cut the dadoes. Otherwise you will not get a good fit on your half laps. I will suggest you use a test piece to dial in the bit height, if you haven't already considered that.
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  4. #4
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    What wood are you intending to use? If it's semi-resistant to splintering in this sort of cut, my experience is those stacked notches will cut just fine. If it wants to splinter, more care is needed, such as a layer of material that won't splinter between the pieces. Additionally, a backer piece on either side when you route the notches will help both end pieces.

  5. #5
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    Its a combination of pecan and maple that I have planed down to 1/4". It will be covered or flocked so a few splinter cuts will likely be hidden. Thanks for the feedback.
    Tim in Hill Country of Texas

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