Screw Size Usage?

[Ron Citerone]

As others have said, there are lots of variables to picking screw size. I mostly build solid wood furniture and #8 is my size for most applications. #6 for attaching plywood backs. #10 for attaching solid tops and assembling multiple part furniture e.g. chest on chest dresser. Can’t back it up with engineering, just what has worked for me.

P.S. I have become more and more particular about counterboring/countersinking/clearance holes/pilot holes. When in doubt I test things out on a scrap piece of the species I am working with.

[Jim Becker]

P.S. I have become more and more particular about counterboring/countersinking/clearance holes/pilot holes. When in doubt I test things out on a scrap piece of the species I am working with.

This is actually a really good practice. Not only do things look neater in the end, I think you get a better joint when the screws seat cleanly because of that prep. It's a big reason why I use two drill/drivers for assembly...one setup for the counterbore/pilot and the other for the driving. (I happen to use two Festool CXS D/Ds for this as they are lightweight and easy for "me" to handle)

[johnny means]

I use 6s when the primary function is just assembly, like cabinet sides. I'll move up to 8s or 10s when they might need to resist twisting or racking, like a table leg or chair back.

[Bill Dufour]

For countersinking I use a micro countersink cage. Easy one click adjustment every 1/1000 of an inch. Just make sure the countersink angle is correct since most aircraft countersinks are 100 degree while woodscrews are mainly 82 degrees.
Never seen one but they do make piloted counterbores that will fit into a micro countersink cage. I had no luck with rivet shavers for wood plug flush cutting.
bill D

[George Yetka]

This is actually a really good practice. Not only do things look neater in the end, I think you get a better joint when the screws seat cleanly because of that prep. It's a big reason why I use two drill/drivers for assembly...one setup for the counterbore/pilot and the other for the driving. (I happen to use two Festool CXS D/Ds for this as they are lightweight and easy for "me" to handle)

I have had or used 50 cordless drills/drivers in my life and none are as favorite as the CXS. I wouldnt put a 2" forstner in it but for almost everything I do in the garage and around the house its what I use.

I still have a bank of 24 drawers that are 2-1/4" deep 10-12" wide and 30" deep. Many of them have plywood dividers but 5-6 of them have 3d printed bins in increments of 2"x2"(some 2x2,2x4,2x6,4x4,4x6). They have a tap on top that is labeled and are very easy to take out and bring where needed.

[Kent A Bathurst]

............24 drawers that are 2-1/4" deep 10-12" wide and 30" deep....

That's 60 square feet of fasteners. There must be a 12-step grogram for this affliction, George.

[Edward Weber]

Here is how I have my Nut & bolt hardware and misc.
The first four columns are 1/4", 5/16", 3/8" and 1/2-5/8" nuts bolts washers. Last column is small hardware assortments like clips, set screws, cotter pins and so on.
Hardware Bins (297 x 600).jpg
The hammer is for when I don't have the right size.

[andy bessette]

My principal fastener and hardware inventory is more or less organized in one spot. However I keep the 2 most used fastener kits (flathead and panhead sheet metal screws) handy to my main assembly area.

[Jim Becker]

My fasteners are in the bin systems on the wall...all fasteners on the left side and the top one third of the right side. The lower two thirds on the right are all my CNC and router table tooling, etc.

IMG_E5552.jpg

[Steven O Smith]

I've bought a lot of fasteners from this place:
https://www.manasquanfasteners.com/
at very reasonable prices, but not recently.