All thread for floating shelves?

[Sean Moore]

I have to make 3 floating shelves that are 10ft long x 10" deep, approx 1.5" thick. I know there are plenty of manufactured steel brackets like Sheppard Brackets, but id love to save some money and use some 1/2-3/4" all thread if possible. The all thread would be inserted directly into the stud, and then into corresponding holes on the back of the shelves.

Has anyone taken this approach before? Is it stronger if I just use sheppard brackets?

Thanks in advance!

[Cameron Wood]

Allthread will be less stiff than rod of the same size, so not the best good choice unless used as a bolt. I made a mantle once from a big chunk of wood, & used 1/2" iron pipe, drilling the holes at a slight angle so the wood stayed tight to the wall.

Another possibility would be large lag bolts, cutting the heads off after installing in the wall.

[johnny means]

Rebar and black pipe are cheaper and stiffer.

[Lee Schierer]

The shelves you see above the filing cabinet are 9-1/2" x 40" x 3/4" thick and are each supported by two 3/8"x 10" steel rods from one of the big box stores.IMG_2716.jpg
For your 1.5 inch shelves I would use 1/2" or 3/4" rods into the studs and back edge of the board.

You will need a jig to match the spacing of the holes in the studs to the back side of the shelves. Make sure your wall is plumb and the jig will drill your holes perfectly horizontal and perpendicular to the wall both vertically and horizontally. Use a drill press for the holes in the edge of the shelf so that they are exactly parallel to the shelf surface and perpendicular to the edge.

Drill rod would be stiffer than cold rolled steel rods to prevent sagging due to weight.

[Bill Dufour]

My shop hanging shelves use 3/4" turnbuckles tied to pipe across the trusses.
BilLD

[Bill Dufour]

At what point is drilling into a stud too much? I only see charts for drilling into the face not the edge. Notching is never allowed. I would think 1/2 pipe(3/4" OD) into 1.5" edge would remove more then 50% of the load bearing capacity.
Bill D

[Richard Coers]

10'? I don't envy you trying to get all those holes lined up. On a lot of homes, it will take scribing to get a 10' board to sit tight to the wall. I'd go with two 5' pieces. Good luck

[Lee Schierer]

At what point is drilling into a stud too much? I only see charts for drilling into the face not the edge. Notching is never allowed. I would think 1/2 pipe(3/4" OD) into 1.5" edge would remove more then 50% of the load bearing capacity.
Bill D

Not all walls are load bearing. Studs are also in compression, not bending.

[Patrick Varley]

I've previously used the method Cameron suggested for a mantle, sinking lag bolts then cutting off the heads. I made a template to match the back of the mantle which allowed drilling the matching holes pretty straightforward. Made the holes in the mantle slightly oversized and filled with construction adhesive.

[mike calabrese]

Couple of ideas linked below, Youtube is loaded with "The Best" floating shelf products and methods of all time.
Why try to guess something to use when there are commercial products out there that could make your job easier.
Just a suggestion, you are the boss of your work.
calabrese55



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tBv0Dqb_Hc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTf5frrdrh4

[Bradley Gray]

Make the shelf an inch or two wider than you need. Drill holes for the rods on your drill press (I like one inch plain steel). Rip the extra off the back of the shelf and fasten to the wall as a drill guide.

[Jamie Buxton]

Make the shelf from two pieces of half inch plywood, separated by occasional spacers one inch thick. Except where the spacers are, there's a 1"-tall airspace the whole length of the shelf. Your supports go into that airspace. There's no struggle with drilling deep holes into the back of the shelf, and no problems with aligning the supports with the holes.

[Walter Mooney]

Make the shelf from two pieces of half inch plywood, separated by occasional spacers one inch thick. Except where the spacers are, there's a 1"-tall airspace the whole length of the shelf. Your supports go into that airspace. There's no struggle with drilling deep holes into the back of the shelf, and no problems with aligning the supports with the holes.

+1 for this method! Simplifies just about everything.

[andy bessette]

Make the shelf from two pieces of half inch plywood, separated by occasional spacers one inch thick. Except where the spacers are, there's a 1"-tall airspace the whole length of the shelf. Your supports go into that airspace. There's no struggle with drilling deep holes into the back of the shelf, and no problems with aligning the supports with the holes.

I like this. Still, use a guide for installing the supports perpendicular to the wall.

[Jonathan Jung]

Sheppard brackets work really well, they are stiffer than all thread, or rebar. This allows for solid wood shelves, which looks a lot better than edged plywood.