Progress Report

[Carl Eyman]

There is good news and there is bad news, but in this post I'll only include the good. I've begun the finishing process on the desk I'm making even though there is more construction ahead. This is what the gallery looks like after a couple of coats of shellac with a dozen or more to come. I'm using seedlac to fill the pores over golden brown dye and will finish with Behlen's Rock Hard.

[tod evans]

looking good carl!

[John Timberlake]

Great so far. Can't wait to see the finished product. What's the bad news?

[Mike Henderson]

Wow, that looks great. It'd be really nice to hear how you did all those curves.

Keep the progress reports coming.

Mike

[Cecil Arnold]

Really nice work Carl. Looking forward to seeing the finished piece.

[Roger Myers]

Carl,
That gallery is looking great! Tombstone door looks like it came out really nice...
I'm sure you've got a nice number of secret compartments tucked away in there!!
More Pics Please
Roger

[Steve Clardy]

Looking good Carl!!!

[Carl Eyman]

Earlier in the day when I started this thread I was still too upset to talk about the bad news rationally After going back to the shoip this afternoon and making a start to solve the problem I think I'm calmed down enough to ask for help. If you look at the drawers in the picture (can only see 2 of 4), you'll notice they have the same grain pattern. That is because I bought veneer from the same flitch so each drawer would look like its buddies. On advice of the Creek I used a 2 part glue with "800" in its name to glue the veneer and used veneer clamps. That was several months ago. The glue is very hard to use. The description of the right quantity is very complicated. Apparently on the third drawer I used too little (or too much) and when I used the water based dye the veneer expanded and bubbled.

I tried to reglue it with super glue, but ZERO luck. I think the area under the veneer was still damp. This afternoon I removed the original veneer. 85% came off by scraping (with a heat gun helping) and the rest by belt sanding.

Anyway, I now have a good looking surface. Question: since I do have two extra pieces of veneer from the same flitch (you see I knew my tendency to mess up) Should I try again, or alternatively, finish the drawer surface as is? It will be a different grain pattern, of course. Stick out like a sore thumb!

Before telling me to reveneer, remember: When I did it the first time I was able to put the boards in veneer presses. This time I'll have to apply pressure with C-clamps. Secondly, should I use the same glue? I'm sure it is good, but needs an experienced gluer. Or should I use a white glue or plastic resin which I think I do know?

I await the sage advice of Creekers.

[Steve Clardy]

Well. Sorry to hear the bad news. Things happen, I know.
I think other than to use that new glue, whatever it is, I usually just use good old titebond.

[Corvin Alstot]

Pro furniture repairman use hide glue.
If it bubbles it is repairable.
It does not take as much precision to mix as the 800.
You can also hammer glue the veneer to the drawer.

[Roger Myers]

Carl Id re-veneer it with the veneer you saved. I'm gathering that the drawer boxes are built, thats why you would need to use clamps. In that case, I think your best method would be to use hide glue and hammer veneer it. You could support the drawer face in such a way as to provide enough support for you to use a veneer hammer.... works very well and you would be all set. Lot's of articles about hammer veneering with hide glue out there. I've done it and if I can...well, anyone can. Also, 2 methods....one applies glue only to the backside of the veneer. The method I like to use applies glue to the back and the face... the glue on the face helps the veneer hammer slide...it's a little messy but works great. when you scrape the surface..all that goes away.
You can salvage this no problem.
By the way, I use the 800 with no problems...I'm assuming in LA the temp was above 65 degrees...that will cause problems.... otherwise I suspect it was inadequate glue... on a open grained wood like walnut, you should actually have bleed through the veneer (if using a vaccum press) and consequently have to use the dark colored 800...

Roger