Inset hinges

[Jeff Monson]

Just curious what everyone's go to hinge for inset cabinet doors. I have an upcoming kitchen remodel and we are going inset doors and drawers. There will be a few pullouts on the pantry so I'm not sure if this changes hinge selection on that. thanks!

[Jamie Buxton]

Cup hinges. I like Blum. Soft-close seems to be expected now, but I like plain ol’ self close. I use stem bumpers. Self close and stem bumpers gives a nice positive thump as the door closes.

[andrew whicker]

I had a "doh" moment the other day when I was "remodeling" someone's kitchen cabs by adding a few pullouts and a spice rack. I built the pullouts a bit taller than std to add a nice semi circle grab spot. I think it looked cool. Anyway, I didn't think about the bottom hinge, so I had to cut down the bottom pullout to fit under the bottom hinge that was installed at the typical 4" on center. Doh!

Otherwise, just be sure the hinges allow the door to open out and away enough to allow the pullout to slide out (Zero protrusion). If there is a wall or obstruction, you may have to shim the slides out from the sides to make sure the pullouts operate. I had to shim the ones I made for this kitchen because the existing doors weren't zero protrusion.

pullouts finished.jpg

[Jeff Monson]

Thanks guys,

Jamie is there a model that you like of the blum soft close? Also on the clips with a 1.5" face frame is there any special one to get?

Andrew thanks for the info. I can see that being an easy mistake to do. I'll have to shim my slides as I plan on using a face frame.

[Richard Coers]

The model depends on what hind of opening angle you want.

[andrew whicker]

The easiest method is to simply order from someone like Rockler. https://www.rockler.com/hardware/cabinet-hardware/hinges/european-hinges#/filter:hinge_open_degree:Zero$2520Protrusion

Otherwise, you'll have to understand that euro hinges are sold as two pieces: the hinge and the base. Once you understand how, you can mix and match as necessary and save money by ordering from bigger supply houses. You can use a face frame (FF) base with whatever hinge you want.

https://www.cabinetparts.com/c/hinges

Same with undermount slides. You can save money by ordering them in two pieces from supply houses (the slide and the piece the slide locks into on the bottom of the drawer). But you can also order them from Rockler as a kit.

I am just finishing up a mudroom with a face frame and inset doors. Per other's advice, I made the face frame ~ 1/16" from the cabinet walls and used 3 mm tall base to get my reveal (this is my memory, have to double check to be certain) It will start to make sense you when you do more research on how the Euro hinges work.

[Jamie Buxton]

On face frame cabinets, I use regular long arm cup hinges. I add blocking to the cabinet side for the hinge plate to screw to.
I use blocking too on the hinge side of the cabinet to ensure that pullouts clear the hinges.
For slides, my default is Blum Tandem soft close. They are pricey but worth it. For face frame, again you’ll need blocking to screw the slides to. All in all, inset doors and face frames take more time and money.

[Warren Lake]

dont have a go to, depends on the style of the furniture. A butt hinge will stay aligned better than a euro hinge over time.

[Jared Sankovich]

I keep blum 71B9790s in stock (thick door, full crank, soft close, inserta) my doors are never thinner than 25mm/.980" and up to 1.155" so hinges that work in that range are limited.

[Keith Christopher]

lots of dependencies here, frame less, face frame ? going to vary. But I think Blum (as others have said) have the best variety. I just set some for my laundry room cabinets I am finishing work like a champ and spot on the industry standards for drilling and fitting.

[Dan Chouinard]

What are your intentions Jeff for face frame alignment with cabinet vertical sides? This along with door thickness and the desired opening angle will determine hinge and mounting plate.
I have only used Blum hinges for the many kitchens i have built. My doors finish out at a weak 7/8th inch. I always make shallow dado in back of stiles 1/8 x 1/8 so I can pocket screw plywood side to face frame. We use clip top Blumotion 110 degree hinge 71B3790. This is self closing and screw-less hinge. It does require 3 hole bore that the blum minipress can provide. Before we found a used minipress, I would take doors to another local shop and for a small fee they would do the hinge bore for me. The 71B3750 is a screw on model of same hinge that only requires a single hinge cup bore. The mounting plate I use is 175H7190. Bullet proof and reliable method. I have a sweet goof proof method of locating the mounting plate that I could share if anyone needs it.
Time to make some dust!

[Kevin Jenness]

I always make shallow dado in back of stiles 1/8 x 1/8 so I can pocket screw plywood side to face frame.

How does this work as opposed to pocket screwing w/o the dado? Do you mill a tongue on your carcass parts?

[Dan Chouinard]

oh thanks for pointing that out Kevin. I did not articulate that well at all. I make a dado 7/8" wide (oversized because it can be and makes it easier to get the plywood into the dado) 1/8 ish deep and 1/8" back from edge of face frame. This makes face frame stiles proud of cabinet sides by 1/8". The pocket screws push the plywood snug into that dado. No tongue on carcass parts. Its fool proof.

[Dan Chouinard]

There are a thousand ways to skin a cat but that is the method that works for me. I like the 7/8" wide dado because plywood is a long way from being flat (or consistant thickness) and trying to get it into a 3/4" dado is a recipe for frustration.

[Dan Chouinard]

I need to learn how to post photos so I could more easily share other inset cabinetry methods that work for me and may be helpful for others who are new to making cabinets. Locating hinge mounting plates was a trial and error process until i found a simple "yankee" method. Same applies to drawer slide mounting. Oh and carcass construction...