Contributor
Carl, I’m also in the “invest in some new blades” camp but, obviously, it’s 100% your decision. Since you mentioned cutting exotics, it does not surprise me that a regular skip-tooth blade may not get the results you want.
David Marks was a big a big fan of the 1/2” Lenox Die-Master II for the exotics he worked with. Very affordable and great finish quality on exotics. If your budget is higher, can’t go wrong with the Woodmastwr CT. Good luck in your search.
Erik
Contributor
I use 1/2” 3 tpi bimetal blades for all except resawing. that is a 1” 1.3 tpi carbide Lenox Woodmaster CT. I sharpen both these types with a diamond disk in a Dremel.
In sharpening, the aim of my chosen method is to flatten the tip of the tooth. Just a smidgen …. just enough to remove the wear bevel. This way the geometry of the tooth is unaffected. It is not necessary to consider the set. There is too little removed to alter it in any way .. in fact, a touch less set may leave a finer surface.
Regards from Perth
Derek
[OP]
Contributor
Indeed Derek, have read your posts on your setup as well as Johns.
Here is an interesting youtube link from the archives on the subject:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SoaOkqi-xxs
This may be too much.... but in usual fashion, I am going down the rabbit hole on this and hope to figure out what works for me...
Right now the thing is buggered up enough it is cutting closer to 'arcs' than 'drift' even...
Member
Must have a look at those videos again John, as I remember the setup pretty fascinating and of a bygone time.
Carl, you're a man after me own heart
I must say, Lou's method looks pretty good for those who don't wish to use the missus Dremmel.
Thanks for bringing this back up again.
Regarding the set, as Derek mentioned, nice to know it's not something which needs constant attention,
but Carl's blades sound like they need setting
and I've got a box full of ones which are in the same state as this.Right now the thing is buggered up enough it is cutting closer to 'arcs' than 'drift' even...
As a primer for gluttony, might as well post some screenshots of Lou's tool for the job.
Looks like some sorta cloth or leather backed abrasive, be nice to know more about it,
no explanation in the comments, only folks seeking answers.
Screenshot-2023-10-4 Lou shows us his massive Ship Saw and how he keeps the blades sharp.jpg
Screenshot-2023-10-4 Lou shows us his massive Ship Saw and how he keeps the blades sharp(2).jpg
Bit tight for space in my damp shed (not keen on making too many jigs from tropical stuff)
hence the appeal of having two hand tools which can be put away easily...
oh, and the other lump of timber, which would likely amount to no space gained really!
Might change my preference if I sharpened a 3TPI blade, haha!
Either way, at the end of the day, a non carbide tipped blade will need setting, if even for the last possible sharpening,
should one be a scrimper and keep a hold of their old ones,
so it would be lovely if someone out there could suggest something, if even from the old days
as I would prefer not having to build something proper, like what's seen on the utoob sawmill channels...well for at least the time being anyway.
The only hint in anything of the likes what I've seen, was someone doing quite the opposite, for a "look" ...
but hey, it's good to look at things at their most basic level, to see how much force needed, blade deflection and whatnot.
Judging from Bradshaw joinery's video, doesn't look like it might be easy to sort anything more than one or two teeth without some kind of jiggery,
Screenshot-2023-10-4 Lou shows us his massive Ship Saw and how he keeps the blades sharp(3).jpg
Tom
[OP]
Contributor
Wondered myself - and wondered if it could be as simple as abrasive glued onto a stick. I also noted that there is no abrasive on the 'radius' - suggesting it is not impacting the gullet.Originally Posted by Tom Trees
He is filing those set teeth at a compound angle - I think creating a skew or shear cutting angle. Derek and John isnt needing this with the dremel setup.
My blade is the same - alternating set with a third tooth straight on. I dont know if I am up to making a way to reset all the teeth - but I might throw an indicator on it to see if one side is more than the other.
For sure sharpening it dramatically improved the ability to cut. It is just now severe drift. So ... as was pointed out early in the thread - I did 'something' to cause that. (my usual progression... a step forward, combined with a step sideways...)
Another interesting article here: https://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/chatter.html
Last edited by Carl Beckett; 10-04-2023 at 7:54 AM.
Contributor
I looked thru the comments on Lou's video and the question was asked several times but never answered. I think itis something like this:
https://www.amazon.ca/SHARPAL-121N-D...054782540&th=1
[OP]
Contributor
Well, I gave the Lou method a try.
Had a 200 grit diamond stone to work with.
IMG_7176.jpgIMG_7175.jpg
And.... it cuts straight!
Was a little bit skeptical considering how severe it was before. But it now tracks straight as ever.
I havent tried a true resaw test yet on a wide piece, but the test is as good as the blade has ever tracked.
Amazing.
Filing by hand isnt that bad, and I did it while on the saw same as the video. I do like the idea of some cheap disposable power driven abrasive disk - but it needs to maneuver easy and a good old fashioned hand stroke may be hard to beat (it reminds me of sharpening chain saw blade by hand...). The diamond file is worn along the edge now - not sure how many I would get from that but it came in a set of several that didnt break the bank. I did nothing to the set.
There is something here, now wondering how it might wear...
Last edited by Carl Beckett; 10-04-2023 at 2:50 PM.
Member
Thanks Doug, that does look quite similar to me, (I was trying to take a screenshot of the handle with the illegible logo, but no clear shot of it)
Kinda odd looking, since it does appear to be made from wood on the other end.
One could guess, the diamonds could have got wiped out, and a this was made from the resulting chunk of metal.
Carl's experience suggests it might tally with that.
Good to know it fixed the issue Carl, you certainly didn't hang about!
Hopefully you could report back regarding the longevity of things,
and/or if you indeed, end up going with something along the lines of Lou's sharpener tool.
Cheers
Tom
[OP]
Contributor
Quick update: Resawed some cherry yesterday. 8" wide. Blade cut great.
I will be sharpening in this fashion from now on. A win. Can do it in the time it would take to remove the blade and package for shipment.
Friend of the Creek
Bandsaw Tuning For The Anally Retentive
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9DzbJYIPPNE&t=638s
Regards,
Tom
Contributor
The link does not work for me.
Contributor
~mike
happy in my mud hut
Contributor
If we click on that link, are we going to be deluged with laxative ads?
- After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
- It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.
Contributor
Cutting a 3/4" board with the upper guides 6" off the table... just another youtube "expert".
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
