[OP]
Contributor
I need some consistent 1.5" wide 4/4 stock for beaded face frames. Ripping on my sliding table saw I dont get the results I want. So whats the better choice, shaper, planer or just stick with my tablesaw? I have a shaper with a feeder but have no clue how to setup for this operation.
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Fritz and Franz on the slider...you should be able to get perfect parallel rips for your stock that way. Yes, it's a hair slower than using the rip fence, but it works well. If you want to use the rip fence, be sure to figure out a feather board arrangement or rip slightly proud and edge joint to bring to final width.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Contributor
I usually use the planer after ripping, ganging up several pieces on edge. With highly figured material I don't trust in the planer I'll go directly to the edge sander. You can use a feeder on the saw for more consistent results and less cleanup, but a Fritz and Frans jig will do as well. In either case you are left with a sawn edge
Dimensioning on the shaper is an excellent way to go. Set up a back fence with the stock between the fence and a straight cutter and angle the feeder toward the fence. You can climb cut if need be with the power feed.
Jim, how do you clean up your sawn edges?
Last edited by Kevin Jenness; 10-04-2023 at 1:21 PM.
Contributor
you have a problem then dont say what it is.
You dont say your process, its likely your problem.
Im not set up for hans and franz but wouldnt use it even if I did. Ripping material the old way didnt need to be reinvented for what you are doing. Sure its great for many other things. How does every one know you have a saw with hans and franz capable, dont see a mention of type of saw.
Member
I do what Kevin suggested above. Planer on edge (ganged up) or shaper with outboard fence and power feeder. Both work well and are foolproof once you set it up. I prefer to rough rip at the bandsaw and leave my sliding table saw setup for cross-cutting. You get a better edge finish (and potentially less wood tension release) that takes less sanding / finish prep from both planer and shaper than the saw marks from table saw ripping, in my experience.
Still waters run deep.
Member
Shaper, outboard fence, alternating shear 2z 120mm head. No need to climb cut with that head, or care about grain direction.
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Contributor
this. jointer, rip on bandsaw, then shaper with outboard fence gives incredible results. i prefer ripping on the bandsaw most of the time, but the table saw works as well.Originally Posted by Jared Sankovich
Contributor
I use a method similar to Kevin, gang parts through my drum sander.
Contributor
Yeah, outboard fence on the shaper with a feeder, especially if you want it profiled and dimensioned in one pass.
Rip and plane are fine as well…….Rod
Contributor
I never try to dimension solid stock on the slider unless it’s over 10” wide. Don’t like saw marks on finished pieces. I always rip over size and get clean edges through the S4S or planer on edge. If you have a planer that doesn’t feed on edge accurately the shaper with out board fence is a good solution but quite a bit more setup.
[OP]
Contributor
Thanks Jared that looks like something I can do. So your feeder is pushing into your back fence? And your main fence, the inboard side is just pushed back to the original stock width? Just gotta dumb it down a little for me lol.
A bus station is where a bus stops. A train station is where a train stops. My desk is a work station.
Member
Yes that's the setup
Contributor
if you want to see it in action, scroll to 3:50 here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXhm67OPcvc
i made this a few years ago, but clearly shows the outboard fence setup. same setup, different cutter.
Contributor
I have a slider and also avoid using the slider to rip narrow stock. I have a bandsaw setup with a Co-Matic feeder and find this incredibly easy and safe. I flatten the board on the jointer, and use the planer to get even thickness, and jointer on 1 edge to make sure it is square. With the bandsaw, I then feed the board. If I want 1.5 inches wide, I set the bandsaw a bit over that. When finished, I use the jointer the edge of the remaining board used, then cut the next piece and so on. When all of my boards are cut, with a rough edge on 1 side a bit over size, the planer takes care of that, insures uniform correct width, and smooth. A few friends with sliders who visited my shop found this to be a great way to dimension.
Contributor
Imho, I try to keep my methods of work as simple as possible. I use the fence with Featherboards, the freud glue line rip blade (for this particular cut) and run everything through once. Usually zero cleanup but if there's something, a quick swipe with a card scraper is all I need (a quick card scraping doesn't change dimensions at all... if it's even necessary). GL with your project.
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