Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 20 of 20

Thread: glueing veneer

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Los Angeles, California
    Posts
    976
    I use Old Brown Glue.

    I apply it, put in the press with wax paper covering both sides and let it rest for about 15 minutes.

    I then pull everything apart and do it again.

    In lieu of a veneer press, I use MDF sheets and piles of concrete blocks.

    Old Brown Glue is pretty forgiving.

    I do this because I often get air bubbles and pulling it apart and redoing everything stops the air bubbles. I'm not sure what causes this, whether it is lack of coverage, inconsistent absorbtion, or what, but the do-over works for me.
    Regards,

    Tom

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Jenness View Post
    Because there have been so many failures and it is impossible to repair them. Using a flexible thermoplastic adhesive on wood can work sometimes, as your experience shows, but I think you lucked out.
    Better lucky than good ! Some of the veneer I did was on very tight outside radius/curve and if the glue/cement didn't adhere instantly I have no idea how to clamp something like that just curious how that would be done. Here's a pic. of what I'm talking about the bed is now at my daughters place and it's now about 27 years old & the never a problem with the veneer. The veneer part of that bed is the long top piece that runs length of the head board.
    Bed.jpg

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Providence, RI
    Posts
    522
    Quote Originally Posted by lou Brava View Post
    Better lucky than good ! Some of the veneer I did was on very tight outside radius/curve and if the glue/cement didn't adhere instantly I have no idea how to clamp something like that just curious how that would be done. Here's a pic. of what I'm talking about the bed is now at my daughters place and it's now about 27 years old & the never a problem with the veneer. The veneer part of that bed is the long top piece that runs length of the head board.
    Bed.jpg
    Another way to do that (after softening the veneer) would be to coat both substrate and veneer with TBI, allow to dry on both surfaces, then adhere with an iron. No clamping needed. The advantage of this approach is that you can tack on the veneer in a few places, check fit/position, and reposition as necessary before ironing everything down. With contact cement, yoiu get one and only one chance.
    -- Jim

    Use the right tool for the job.

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by lou Brava View Post
    Better lucky than good ! Some of the veneer I did was on very tight outside radius/curve and if the glue/cement didn't adhere instantly I have no idea how to clamp something like that just curious how that would be done. Here's a pic. of what I'm talking about the bed is now at my daughters place and it's now about 27 years old & the never a problem with the veneer. The veneer part of that bed is the long top piece that runs length of the head board.
    Bed.jpg
    Lucky and good- nice work. It could be done in a vacuum bag.

  5. #20
    Used to see some posts on hammer veneering. It still works ,and it’s pretty fast. On my first job the shop leader showed me how .
    Simple and fast. Apparently some like slower ….better. I guess the thrill of heating the glue with electricity is gone. On to nuclear !

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •