Docking the blade tip on a LV Side Rabbet Plane

[Michael Jasper]

Hi all-
I just purchased the Lee Valley side rabbet plane. The directions explain about docking the point of the blades so they don't dig into the bottom of a dado or groove. I understand this - but what I'm confused about is that the amount the tip protrudes is a function of how deeply the blade is set to cut. So it seems to me one has to decide on a specific depth of cut and stick with it. Once you grind off that tip, if you set it less deep, the blade won't reach the bottom of the side wall and if you set it deeper, it will dig in again.

Am I misunderstanding this? It seems odd to have a situation where you have to choose a single depth setting on a plane and only use that.

Thanks!

[Tom M King]

I've never had anything but sharp points on any of my side rabbet planes, and never even thought about needing anything else. The fence limits the depth.

[Jim Koepke]

Hi all-
I just purchased the Lee Valley side rabbet plane. The directions explain about docking the point of the blades so they don't dig into the bottom of a dado or groove. I understand this - but what I'm confused about is that the amount the tip protrudes is a function of how deeply the blade is set to cut. So it seems to me one has to decide on a specific depth of cut and stick with it. Once you grind off that tip, if you set it less deep, the blade won't reach the bottom of the side wall and if you set it deeper, it will dig in again.

Am I misunderstanding this? It seems odd to have a situation where you have to choose a single depth setting on a plane and only use that.

Thanks!

Reading the directions online > https://assets.leevalley.com/Origina...ane-c-01-e.pdf <, it seems like you may have misunderstood what was explained:

When sharpening the cutting edge, it is important to maintain the correct skew angle. Failure to do so may cause the side edge of the blade to angle out farther than the tip, preventing the plane from cutting right into the corner.

To me this sounds like an incorrectly honed blade could under cut the side bevel along the edge of the blade. This could cause the top of the bevel, on the side, to ride against the back of the rabbet. This would take the cutting edge away from the inside corner.

It seems more like a warning to avoid "docking the blade." It sounds like if the blade is ground or honed improperly you end up with the problem you described.

A correctly sharpened and installed blade will cut properly at various depths.

jtk

[Lamar Keeney]

This is how I set mine up. Naturally, I sharpened the blades. I then took a piece of 1/2in thick wood and set the blade to the preferred shaving thickness. After that I marked the extended point. (About 3/32 if I recall) It took me a couple of tries honing it slowly as it's always easier to remove than replace.

Hope this will be of some help.

[steven c newman]

Ok...isn't there suppose to be a Wear (clearance) Bevel on the side of the iron...? To where just the pointy tip is sticking out a hair...otherwise...the side of the iron will not have the clearance needed. Because, the outside edge of the iron is suppose to look just like a Normal Bevel Down plane...

Or, am I just spoiled by my No. 78?

BTW: to set the iron....lay the plane on it's side, insert the iron and let it sit flush with that side....set the depth..and get to work...

Have to remember..(TIP Alert!)...the side of the iron is NOT supposed to be doing any cutting....just the leading edge that sticks out from the sole is to do the work....unless you goal is a Trapezoid wall to the dado/rebate....

[Jim Koepke]

Ok...isn't there suppose to be a Wear (clearance) Bevel on the side of the iron...?

That is stated in the instructions linked in my last post:

Note also that, because the blade is skewed, the outer edge of the blade has been bevelled to prevent it from projecting beyond the corner of the blade.

There is a technique for setting the blade on all of my rabbet/rebate planes that has worked very well.

Various Rabbet Planes.jpg

Tighten the lever cap, or wedge, just enough so the blade can move with finger pressure but not by itself. Set the plane on its side that will be the inside of the rabbet on a flat surface like one's bench. While holding the plane firmly down, use your fingers to press the blade against the surface the plane is on.

This is especially important on rabbet planes without a fence.

Ohio Cutting Rabbet:Rebate.jpg

On a plane with or without a fence if the blade is set inside of the plane's side the rabbet will move away from the inside edge with each cut.

On a non-fenced plane if the blade is set too proud of the side, it will try to cut into the back of the edge with each pass. On a fenced plane it can leave a very rough edge.

The Lee Valley side rabbet plane has set screws to assist the user when the blade is removed for honing. Once the blade is set, the set screws can be adjusted to the side of the blade. This should only need doing once.

jtk