I need some help with screws

[Cameron Wood]

-1 for GRK screws. They are good and all, but expensive, too shiny, and there are way too many types, sizes, and driver sizes.

One is forced to have on hand T10, T15, T20, T25, T27, T30, even occasionally T40 tips, and you often can't tell the difference between two adjacent sizes.

[Phil Gaudio]

I have been using nothing but Spax for many years: I have had very good results with these.

[Jim Becker]

I certainly like GRK (and SPAX) for construction work, including structural needs, which is what they are generally designed for, but I don't consider them cost effective for use in woodworking projects unless there is a structural need for that level of fastener.

[Thomas McCurnin]

I forgot to attach the chart for pilot holes

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-i...Hole-Size.aspx

[Rich Konopka]

I use the GRK's but for plywood cabinet projects the FastCap Powerhead screws cannot be beat. https://www.woodcraft.com/categories...%5B%5D=FastCap

[Dan Friedrichs]

-1 for GRK screws. They are good and all, but expensive, too shiny, and there are way too many types, sizes, and driver sizes.

One is forced to have on hand T10, T15, T20, T25, T27, T30, even occasionally T40 tips, and you often can't tell the difference between two adjacent sizes.

Certainly the large structural ones are pricey. But the #8's I linked above are $0.04/ea, and when I disassemble a jig or whatever, I usually save and reuse the screws because they're still like-new.

[Jared Sankovich]

I use McFeeley's #8 1.25", 1.5" and 2" square drive screws in black oxide for general assembly work. I originally was buying the zinc, but gradually gravitated to the black oxide because they look better to me for certain applications where they remain visible. I also buy in the 1000 count. For the record, I also "stock" .75" and 1" in the same finish and they also get a lot of use.

I keep a similar stock of #8s but also keep 1.25" #6s

[andrew whicker]

I've started going square drive on everything. I like them better than torx drive.

[Ron Selzer]

I've started going square drive on everything. I like them better than torx drive.

I agree with andrew
Ron

[Brian Tymchak]

I forgot to attach the chart for pilot holes

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-i...Hole-Size.aspx

Nice reference! Thanks for posting the link Tom.

[Jim Becker]

I keep a similar stock of #8s but also keep 1.25" #6s

Oh, I have an assortment of #6 regular size head as well as #7 trim head screws that get frequent use, too. I just don't buy them in the quantities that I do for the #8s. I kinda have a bunch of #10, too, because back in the early 2000's I mistakenly thought that was the right size for most things and bought "a lot". They get use when appropriate, but I suspect that the supply will very much outlive me.

[Ray Selinger]

I use the original Robertson screws on cabinets, but for most projects, construction grade yellow zinc # 8 square head. They don't look too bad, almost like brass. I buy them in 500 piece jars or 1# boxes depending on lumber yard I'm at. The odd time if I'm using them for construction, I like the 3" #8 or the 3 1/2 #10 in kegs. They use plastic buckets, now. I'm old, only as a very young kid did I see real nail kegs. The 1/4" cordless impact driver is a game changer here. I've found the bits last almost forever, unlike if you are using a drill motor. There, you buy them by the handful. Spin a bit , and you toss it.

[Rush Paul]

I'm surprised no mentions of GRK R4's: https://www.amazon.com/GRK-ProPak-Mu.../dp/B001SFGRL2
Smaller pack: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GRK-Fast...6080/204837653

I use these for nearly everything. They are lightyears better than anything else.

I also use GRK R4 screws for all my projects, particularly plywood panel projects. The #8 GRK R4 screws are perfect in 1/2" and 3/4" plywood. I'll also use the #8 GRK Cabinet screws in many locations where having a broad surface face makes sense. These screws have great tensile strength, they are tough, the heads don't strip out, and they rarely split the plywood when driven into the edges (as in a dado joint). FWIW, for plywood edge penetration, as in a dado, I will regularly drill a pilot hole even though that may not be absolutely necessary.

I tried Spax, and I tried to like them, but they just don't compare to GRK in the same sizes.

For constructing with 2x boards, I will occasionally move to the #9 or #10 GRK screws where the application seems to warrant the greater strength.

[Gary Petersen]

I like WoodPro by A&C Eagle and buy them mostly direct or from Amazon. The AP8X114 #8 x 1-1/4" is a go-to wood screw for me. I've never had one break. They have nibs on the underside of the countersink head that help retain the screw in the hole. The top portion of the screw is threadless to help draw the second board tight against the first. And they have a star drive which has eliminated stripping of the head in my use.

http://bandceagle.com/fasteners.php?type=packaged_screws

[George Yetka]

I use grk r4's for 1-1/4 and up
but I use these screws in the sizes under 1-1/4"
https://www.mcfeelys.com/8-x-1-1-4-f...e-qty-100.html