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Thread: how can I get a short stroke slider or Sawstop in my shop

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,901
    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Crawford View Post
    I would like to get rid of the SCMS, the cart I built for it works great but takes up a ton of room. Its my least favorite tool from a safety and precision factor.
    I still have my SCMS, but it's on a small, mobile stand that tucks out of the way against a wall under my clamps and some wall cabinets. I rarely use it other than for home improvement projects, etc. The stand is only about two foot square.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #17
    I find a cutoff saw quite useful for bucking lumber, but I have 15' on either side. Dicing up planks with a slider entails a lot of end-for-ending. I have an old 8 1/2" Hitachi that does a decent job on finish cuts, but for optimal results I use the sliding table saw. For sure if you have to choose one let the miter saw go and don't look back. I think you will find a slider better for your purposes than a cabinet saw with a sliding attachment as having the carriage next to the blade enables straight-line rips, taper cuts and the like.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Cedar Park, TX - Boulder Creek, CA
    Posts
    840
    My old Dewalt 12", 42" front to back, takes up a ton of room. Highly useful when I need it.

    Felder KF-700, short stroke. Not a lot bigger then a conventional TS as already noted. Most use, the 'slider' stays locked down, or needs no more than a foot or 2 of clearance for cross cuts.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Goleta / Santa Barbara
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    969
    if it were me, i would be inclined to move the bench to the left and rotate it counterclockwise 90 degrees so you are up against and looking at the weight cage. Then i would put my saw where the was, with the operator's back to the double doors, so you can bring lumber or sheet goods in thru the door and slice and dice it on the saw.

    JMHO, YMMV, good luck, Patrick

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Bucks County, PA
    Posts
    975
    I have a Hammer K3 79x48 in my 16'x22' basement shop, along with my workbench, an A3-31, two bandsaws, a router table, a drum sander, a drill press, a DC, and various other things. I don't have to deal with exercise equipment, but I do have HVAC units, a water heater, and litter boxes in my shop.

    It's not that tight of a squeeze, but it does mean most equipment is on wheels and most equipment has to be moved out from the wall when I want to use it. The K3 is on wheels but never moves. My workbench is against a wall, limiting its usefulness somewhat, but I'm used to that. My assembly table is frequently being moved around as I shuffle equipment for use or when I have to move it out of the way of the slider's wagon when making cuts that require longer travel.

    All that being said, I would not go back to a cabinet-style saw.
    And there was trouble, taking place...

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    ^^ I've been in Steve's excellent shop and it's an amazing example of putting a lot of functionality into a space that many folks might not consider. And the slider is the heart of it.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #22
    I was also deciding between SS and slider and wanted the slider, but I had the consideration of my kids eventually using the shop and the brake feature for their safety won out. I have a smaller space than that, but could have made the slider work.

    Another vote to ditch miter saw, huge space hog that for hardwood furniture construction can be replaced by a couple collapsing saw horses and 7 1/4 circ saw to break things down when needed. I do this outside so it doesn't require any shuffling things in the shop and keeps the dust outside.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    central tx
    Posts
    592
    Been talking to the Felder rep and should end up with a K3 winner 48x48. I'm trying to decide if I want their mobility base or not. For my A3-41 I put it on a Bora 3550 (the one with 4 swivel wheels) and I really like it. But for some reason I'm thinking the slider should move around less. And I'm not sure how to effectively get it on there.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    central tx
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    592
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick McCarthy View Post
    if it were me, i would be inclined to move the bench to the left and rotate it counterclockwise 90 degrees so you are up against and looking at the weight cage. Then i would put my saw where the was, with the operator's back to the double doors, so you can bring lumber or sheet goods in thru the door and slice and dice it on the saw.

    JMHO, YMMV, good luck, Patrick
    That's not a bad idea, thanks. I can also add a 230V and dust collection hose to the middle of the ceiling and stick the slider in the middle. I've just always preferred the machines along the wall for some reason.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Crawford View Post
    That's not a bad idea, thanks. I can also add a 230V and dust collection hose to the middle of the ceiling and stick the slider in the middle. I've just always preferred the machines along the wall for some reason.
    That's how I did my "tool islands"; the slider being one and the J/P, BS and DP being the other. Electrical and dust collection are attached to simple posts that are fastened up top and with a couple of tapcons at the bottom

    IMG_4258.jpg
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Winterville, NC (eastern NC)
    Posts
    2,366
    I have a short stroke slider that I located on one of the long walls of my 16 X 32 shop. It is the only machine in my space that is not mounted on moveable casters due to its weight (1000 lbs). My Hammer A3-41 is on the other long wall, closest to the dust collector. Like others have stated, my vote is for the slider due to the capacity and safety it offers. Everything else is located the best way possible, pulling out whatever machine is needed as needed. You can make it work.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,278
    [/QUOTE]

    Hi Thomas, I suggest you purchase the 31 1/2” rip capacity model instead, I’ve owned one for 13 years and have never needed the extra capacity for ripping.

    If you do need that, rip on the sliding table for increased capacity.

    The outrigger normally hangs on my wall, when I need it it goes on in two minutes without tools or requiring calibration.

    I use the slider mounted crosscut fence the most, followed by a F&F jig, then the big fence on the outrigger occasionally.

    Buy the mobility kit from Felder, it works great, better than casters in my opinion.

    Regards, Rod

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Waterford, PA
    Posts
    1,239
    Probably late to the show, but I have a SC2C in my cutup 24 x 24 space. I did remove the table to the right of the blade a few months ago and build a smaller one allowing me to move it closer to the wall. I was replacing a cabinet saw with 60" rails and this takes up about the same amount of space.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    central tx
    Posts
    592
    Well I got one ordered, it was in stock, so I should be figuring out where to put it in the next week or two. Thanks for the replies everyone. I'll post pics when i get it in.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
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    11,278
    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Crawford View Post
    Well I got one ordered, it was in stock, so I should be figuring out where to put it in the next week or two. Thanks for the replies everyone. I'll post pics when i get it in.
    I look forward to seeing the photos

    Regards, Rod

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