Clamp calculations

[Rafael Herrera]

Sad thing is that I had a small square there the whole time. I just never stopped to check. I keep a camber on all my bevel down bench planes so moving them to the high edge works for me. I think I need slightly more camber on the 7 though.

Jointers don't need a significant camber, just the slight one you get by biasing the pressure when you sharpen.

[Tony Wilkins]

Jointers don't need a significant camber, just the slight one you get by biasing the pressure when you sharpen.

That’s how I do it (more strokes on eclipse style guide). Felt as I tried to correct maybe I hadn’t kept enough with the last sharpening as I watched the shavings emerge.

[Mel Fulks]

On short stuff it was common in old shops to put on hot animal glue and just rub them together and stand them against a wall . Ive
done it .

[Mel Fulks]

I made some pinch dogs out of a piece of hardware store mild steel about 1/8th inch thick. Used them in employments, and everybody
wanted to borrow them . Made a wooden box with a slide top for them. Got my Son to make a drawing of a bulldog’s face with teeth
that looked like pinch dogs. I’ve looked for them …numerous times, with no luck . DANG !

[Mel Fulks]

For work more than 2 or 3 feet long many of us used “sprung joints” , some say “spring joints” . They assure the ends won’t pop open. We jointed the pieces with straight cut , then moved out-feed table up just a hair ,and cut again That put a slight arc that kept the ends from ever
popping open. The ends need that since that is where the the moisture is lost.

[Tony Wilkins]

For work more than 2 or 3 feet long many of us used “sprung joints” , some say “spring joints” . They assure the ends won’t pop open. We jointed the pieces with straight cut , then moved out-feed table up just a hair ,and cut again That put a slight arc that kept the ends from ever
popping open. The ends need that since that is where the the moisture is lost.

The ends is why I didn’t use the opposite of the spring joint to utilize the pinch dogs. On the three joints I’ve done so far on this table I’ve done one intentional spring joint and two where I’ve aimed for straight joints on both sides. Of those two, one I did well and the other I tried match planing straight and ended up with a slight spring when I decided to glue it up that way. For the last two joints, I’m going for as flat as possible since the boards/panels I’m glueing up are wider.

I also think I’m going to glue the two joints separately as suggested earlier.

[Tony Wilkins]

Somewhere, someone recommended putting the boards on top of one another regularly to track the high spots. Did that and it did the trick. Final check with iPhone light behind it saw no light anywhere along the length.

https://youtube.com/shorts/ChyC0Lbib...CHxgn5ZQKWdXyU

[Doug Trembath]

Which goes back to my skill with a number 7 :rolls eyes: :exasperated look to heaven emoji:

0

Thus your need to fully tune both the Number 7, and your jointing techniques, because after many tables, whenever I match planed my edges, I never have had a failure. Not trying to denigrate anyone, but a sharp, well tuned 7 will leave a perfectly straight joint matched such that even a rubbed glue joint will not fail, clamps not withstanding...

[Tony Wilkins]

0

Thus your need to fully tune both the Number 7, and your jointing techniques, because after many tables, whenever I match planed my edges, I never have had a failure. Not trying to denigrate anyone, but a sharp, well tuned 7 will leave a perfectly straight joint matched such that even a rubbed glue joint will not fail, clamps not withstanding...

it’s an LN #7; I think it’s pretty well tuned

[Tony Wilkins]

One more to go but I’m somewhat happy with how it went. Just put a clamp anywhere that it looked like there could conceivably be a problem.
IMG_0779.jpg

[Tony Wilkins]

So far so good…
IMG_0851.jpg