Hammer K3 accessories?

[Chris Parks]

The first thing I would add is the rip fence with a fine adjuster. The hammer K3 does not have DRO/s available as an option but it is now possible to add one for about $100 and combined with the fine adjuster it is a great tool to have. The extrusion the fine adjuster uses to hold the measuring tape makes it a simple job to add the magnetic read tape for the DRO

I have the diamond blade but it is a bit of one trick pony, it cuts with very little chip out on melamine etc but it does not do anything except straight cuts well due to flexing of the blade. I also have a 5mm thick blade and if I am doing a lot of mitre cuts where blade flex might be an issue it gets used and it does an excellent job.

If you want to add a DRO don't use a Wixey as things have moved along and there are now far better options for way less cost. Here is a link to show adding a DRO to a fine adjuster fence on a Felder but the fence is the same as supplied on a K3 as an option. The video is some years old and that DRO was and is quite expensive, now there are cheaper ones available that give the same result.

(2) Digital Retrofit on Tablesaw Rip fence - YouTube

[Derek Cohen]

I'd appreciate any pointers to good F&F jig instructions/usage if you have a website or video that was helpful.

Thomas, the traditional F&F will not work well on a slider with the crosscut fence at the start of the slider wagon. The original design called for fence to act as a stop. I began this way, but found it a chore to install and remove a second fence at the end of the slider wagon.

The solution was to create a "reverse F&F". This uses the crosscut fence at the start of the slider wagon, and a push block at the further end. The latter has a clamp built in to prevent it moving (as it must double as a stop).

Holding a small board ...



The clamping push block ...



The locking mechanism ...



I use the parallel guide most of the time. The F&F gets little use now.



Note the UHMW ZCI stop at the end of the fence.

Also, the fine adjuster I built ...




Regards from Perth

Derek

[Chris Parks]

There are a variety of ways to make Fritz & Franz jig. Here's a couple things you can look at:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aoAPVQ2sqMc

https://groups.io/g/felderownersgrou...4321465#125689

Mine is two pieces of MDF and that is it, no fences, tapes etc as they are not needed if you use the rip fence head as a measuring stop. I had an F&F jig with INCRA fences and flip stops and found I never used it so I sold the fences and stops. To use an F&F jig as most people do it is easier to put the CC fence on the opposite end to the operator and that works well.

[Dan Friedrichs]

Thomas, the traditional F&F will not work well on a slider with the crosscut fence at the start of the slider wagon. The original design called for fence to act as a stop. I began this way, but found it a chore to install and remove a second fence at the end of the slider wagon.

True, and an excellent additional advantage to having the outrigger. With the outrigger, the fence can be moved forward/backward on the wagon by loosening two thumb screws. Then, the F&F easily sits behind it.
Screenshot 2023-11-14 190208.jpg

[Chris Parks]

A photo of the CC fence on mine at the leading end of the table before I had the outrigger

Fence Mounted On the Front of the Table.JPGFence on the Front of the Table 2.jpg

[Chris Parks]

Photos of DRO on the rip fence

K3 DRO 2.jpgK3 DRO Sensor 2.jpgK3_DRO_Housing.jpgK3 DRO 1.jpg


The magnetic read tape fits exactly in the front vertical face of the extrusion holding the original measuring tape. My F&F jig can also be seen and most probably cost me $2 to make. The knobs hold in removeable end pieces so they can be replaced when they are no longer zero to the blade.

[Thomas Crawford]

Thomas, the traditional F&F will not work well on a slider with the crosscut fence at the start of the slider wagon. The original design called for fence to act as a stop. I began this way, but found it a chore to install and remove a second fence at the end of the slider wagon.

The solution was to create a "reverse F&F". This uses the crosscut fence at the start of the slider wagon, and a push block at the further end. The latter has a clamp built in to prevent it moving (as it must double as a stop).

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks Derek -> I saw your plans earlier for this and it finally clicked. For your version 2 looks like you dropped any vertical clamping as unnecessary?

[Thomas Crawford]

All - is the Felder store t-track the best long term option for making accessories? I finally found it on their website and its $130 for 3 meters, which feels like a lifetime supply.

[Jesse Brown]

Late to the party, but some random thoughts:

• I bought the edging shoe with my saw a few years ago and still haven't used it. At least it's not too expensive.
• Good call on the Forrest dado--the Hammer dado is nice, but it's minimum width is greater than 1/4", which bugs me.
• I think I would have been unhappy with the saw if I hadn't have bought the outrigger, but I work with a mix of plywood and hardwood.
• Like Aaron, I also like Tenryu blades, although take note that he mentioned the .128 kerf, which is fat 1/8".
• Even though I do a lot of plywood, I could probably take or leave the scoring blade. It's awesome for melamine or HPL, though.
• Fritz/franz and a clamping system for the sled is practically required
• Ramon Valdez makes a zero-clearance insert, which is nice to have.

[Aaron Inami]

All - is the Felder store t-track the best long term option for making accessories? I finally found it on their website and its $130 for 3 meters, which feels like a lifetime supply.

Can you provide a URL for this Felder t-track? I'm not sure what you are referring to.

[Thomas Crawford]

Can you provide a URL for this Felder t-track? I'm not sure what you are referring to.

https://www.felder-group.com/en-us/s...pment-sp123878

three 1 meter lengths for the sliding table t-track

[Michael Drew]

I have the 79 and often think the 48 would have been a better choice - till I need the longer stroke.

Of all the things that frustrate me with this saw, at the top of the list is the on/off location. It's factory location is simply moronic. And because it's not the prima-dona "Felder" line, one has to figure out how to move it on their own. An aftermarket option for relocating the switch would be nice.

[Jim Becker]

I have the 79 and often think the 48 would have been a better choice - till I need the longer stroke.

Of all the things that frustrate me with this saw, at the top of the list is the on/off location. It's factory location is simply moronic. And because it's not the prima-dona "Felder" line, one has to figure out how to move it on their own. An aftermarket option for relocating the switch would be nice.

Michael, the on/off switch is also awkward on my SCM/Minimax SC3C, being on the end of the wagon support and sized such that "feeling for it" doesn't always result in the start needed with material loaded on the wagon. I will say it's slightly better than the S315WS I had in my old shop where the switches were on the front of the machine "under" the wagon and any material loaded...I sometimes needed to use a stick to turn in on! It must be a "thing" with these manufacturers...

[Aaron Inami]

https://www.felder-group.com/en-us/s...pment-sp123878

three 1 meter lengths for the sliding table t-track

Thanks. I suppose this could be useful if you wanted to modify a miter gauge (like an Incra miter gauge). You could just as well buy the Felder mitre guage + 900mm fence:

https://www.felder-group.com/en-us/s...guide-sp123858

https://www.felder-group.com/en-us/s...fence-sp123837


for clamps, I found the Milescraft adapter with Kreg clamp works great for sliders:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09KYBY6PN/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H1WFNYC/

[Thomas Crawford]

I'm brand new to sliders, so trying to figure out the workholding. Is it a good idea to always use the hold down clamps on the sliding table when you can, or is it really for when its an odd angle or you are taking a small enough amount off that the rip fence on the other side doesn't help? I'm sure that's a basic question. Maybe I just need to hunt around youtube but there's so much bad advice on there.