Hammer K3 accessories?

[Steve Wurster]

https://www.felder-group.com/en-us/s...pment-sp123878

three 1 meter lengths for the sliding table t-track

I think the main intended usage of that product is for making a sled to rip pieces longer than the sliding table. You can lock the table in place and slide the sled, much like you would do with a crosscut sled on a cabinet style saw.

If you just want "blocks" to go into the T-track area then those can be made out of scrap wood, aluminum, or even UHMW. I made a handful over the years for various purposes. That being said, I more recently bought a couple aluminum ones off Ramon Valdez that are tapped (M10x1.5, I think) and come with nice bolts with knurled ends. From there I made a few of mine own out of wood and bought extra bolts / knobs off Amazon. I just leave the blocks in the T-track all the time and place either a clamp or my F&F jig pieces down over them as needed, and then secure with a bolt.

[Aaron Inami]

I'm brand new to sliders, so trying to figure out the workholding. Is it a good idea to always use the hold down clamps on the sliding table when you can, or is it really for when its an odd angle or you are taking a small enough amount off that the rip fence on the other side doesn't help? I'm sure that's a basic question. Maybe I just need to hunt around youtube but there's so much bad advice on there.

You normally do not want to use the rip fence when using the "slider" to run material through the blade (there is a tiny risk of binding at the rear of the blade that could cause kick-back). Basically, you either use the slider to position the material and run it through -- or you set the rip fence and run wood through on the right side of the blade. You can use pull the rip fence back so that it's positioned before the blade and use it as a "stopper" when positioning material on the slider.

I generally use clamps in most cases because I don't want my hands anywhere near the blade, but it's also useful to lock material down so that it doesn't shift during the cut. With a longer narrow piece, it can easily shift left/right while you push the slider forward. In this case, it's best to use a parallel fence for the cut, but clamps work as well. The challenge is getting the material square to the crosscut fence (if it's a narrow piece).

If you are cutting larger sheets, you're probably fine with just using the flip-stop on the crosscut fence.

[Jim Becker]

I'm brand new to sliders, so trying to figure out the workholding. Is it a good idea to always use the hold down clamps on the sliding table when you can, or is it really for when its an odd angle or you are taking a small enough amount off that the rip fence on the other side doesn't help? I'm sure that's a basic question. Maybe I just need to hunt around youtube but there's so much bad advice on there.

"It depends". Cross cutting with a miter fence often doesn't need clamping down because the fence supports the material. Some straight line ripping using the wagon doesn't require clamps if the board is flat and you have a fence or shoe to butt it up against. Odd angles that are not supported should be clamped. Straight line ripping that requires the best precision (jointer free edge) or parallel ripping may benefit from clamping. Sometimes you clamp so you can keep your hands away from the hungry blade just by personal choice. You will learn through use where you need to clamp and where you don't need to clamp.

One thing...depending on the type of clamp you have to be careful not to use too much pressure to insure you don't deform the wagon. Really cranking things down isn't necessary. This is particularly true of cam type clamps.

Oh, on the tee track...I've never felt a need for that. If I need something to slide in the wagon's groove...I make it from scrap oak. If I need to have a custom clamp down setup in the wagon slot...I make it from scrap oak and use a captive nut.

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks. I suppose this could be useful if you wanted to modify a miter gauge (like an Incra miter gauge). You could just as well buy the Felder mitre guage + 900mm fence:

https://www.felder-group.com/en-us/s...guide-sp123858

https://www.felder-group.com/en-us/s...fence-sp123837


for clamps, I found the Milescraft adapter with Kreg clamp works great for sliders:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09KYBY6PN/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H1WFNYC/

I have an extra mitre gauge and tried this as a F&F base. It did not work for me as I wanted a zero clerance face. Tightening/releasing the gauge on the track causes the face to alter its position, and lose the zero clearance.

I used the Felder track (UHMW strip) in my reversed F&F. It is intended for an sliding wagon extension ... which I though I would make, but never needed.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

Found this link in another thread:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....18#post3234118

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Rod Sheridan]

Does anyone use the box-joint type blades instead of a dado stack on the K3?

Something like this -> https://www.forrestblades.com/saw-bl...5-16-3-8-cuts/

Hi Thomas, the Hammer saw is limited to grooving tools of 180mm diameter or less.

Larger tooling can collide with the saw aggregate structure, that’s why we buy 6” dado cutters in North America.

Regards, Rod

[Thomas Crawford]

Hi Thomas, the Hammer saw is limited to grooving tools of 180mm diameter or less.

Larger tooling can collide with the saw aggregate structure, that’s why we buy 6” dado cutters in North America.

Regards, Rod

Thanks Rod. I ended up finding a Forest 6" dado stack in stock and went with it.