Tall Backsaw for use with Guides Recommendations

[Kyle Grymes]

Looking for a recommendation on a quality backsaw for use with magnetic guides for dovetailing. I still prefer the 'training wheels' that the magnetic guides offer- but they prohibit being able to use a standard dovetail backsaw because the spine bottoms out before reaching the full cut depth.
So- the depth of cut needs to be tall but still intended for crosscutting joinery.

[Tony Wilkins]

Assuming you’re talking about western, I would recommend looking at badaxe tenon saws. Rip or hybrid cut. As long as you don’t go too tall, I’d think they are a good bet for what you want.

[Tom M King]

Just practice cutting to a line. I don't see where using a guide will help learn how to cut to a line. Mark a very fine line. Practice leaving the line, taking the line, and splitting it down the middle. I believe you will get there quicker.

[Andrew Hughes]

I recommend the op look at Japanese pull saws the only con is they can’t be resharpened like a Westeros saw.
Ive seen those magnetic guides. I will admit to using a Dovetail marker for a guide it’s not a great idea the teeth scratch it up. Making it useless
Good Luck

[Jimmy Harris]

Pull saws really work best with magnetic guides. Usually if you see someone using a magnetic dovetail guide, they're using a pull saw. And I too suggest not using a guide for dovetails, as they're small cuts and it's really not that hard to follow a line if you're only going a few inches into the wood. Plus, you can always cut it fat and pare it to the line if your cutting skills aren't quite there yet. It shouldn't take long to get the hang of it. And some practice will pay dividends in many other areas as well.

But, if you're intent on using a guide with a western dovetail saw, then I'd look at getting a sash saw or carcass saw with a rip tooth configuration. It's basically a just a slightly taller and longer dovetail saw anyway. Lynx and Crown also make a tall dovetail saw, though I hesitate to recommend them. The handles aren't that great and they're pretty short.

[Derek Cohen]

Looking for a recommendation on a quality backsaw for use with magnetic guides for dovetailing. I still prefer the 'training wheels' that the magnetic guides offer- but they prohibit being able to use a standard dovetail backsaw because the spine bottoms out before reaching the full cut depth.
So- the depth of cut needs to be tall but still intended for crosscutting joinery.

Kyle, as with others, I recommend freehand cutting over a guide. However ... the method I mention will both solve your issue - using a western dovetail saw with a guide - and develop the hand skills to use it freehand.

It's really simple: use a guide with the dovetail saw of your choice. This will no doubt have about 2" - 2 1/2" below the back. You only need to saw about 1/2" down. Do so after laying out the lines, and then remove the guide. Saw the remainder of the way using the established kerf to guide you the rest of the way. It won't be long.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[lowell holmes]

Visit Home Depot and Lowes. Both have good selections . Is there a wood working club you can visit.

[Rick Whitehead]

What kind of magnetic guide do you have, and how wide does the back saw blade need to be?
I may have a saw that would work, depending on what guide you have. I sent you a PM.
Rick

[chuck van dyck]

Forget the line, just learn to saw square and transfer to pin board accurately with the blue tape deal. I promise it is easier than using the guide. Any tool takes practice, even a magnetic dovetail guide. Just practice without.
Find any old scrap 1/2”-1” thick and cut kerfs for a tail. Check for square. Do that over and over until it starts clicking. By the 10th kerf you’ll be much better than the 1st. Its kinda fun.

[Tom Bender]

Some of us may have permanently unsteady hands or poor vision but still want to do precise work. It's not fair to say "precise and you'll get better". Sawing and sharpening guides may be appropriate.

[David Carroll]

If you look around you will find that older saws, made before the Independence and Aria saws reignited the dovetail saw revolution, were often taller and would work well. I have an old Tyzack and Turner dovetail saw that was nearly 3-inches under the spine. I still see them for sale (used of course, but lightly) here and there.

In terms of "training wheels" if it works for you and you enjoy using the guides, there's nothing wrong with that. I remember one of my Uncle's jokes that went something like, If you got really good at using a scraper, you wouldn't need sandpaper. If you got really good at using a hand plane, you wouldn't need a scraper. If you got really good at using an adze, you wouldn't need a plane. If you got really good at using an axe, you wouldn't need an adze. Therefore, if you got really good at using an axe, you should be able to throw a log high up into the air, strike it once, in exactly the right spot, and a dining table and six chairs would fall to earth, fully assembled.

I'm still working on the scraper...

DC

[Jim Koepke]

LOL!

jtk