Refinish Rubio Monocoated Table

[Charlie Martinez]

A couple of years ago we had a local craftsman build us a kitchen bar top made of ash and we loved its look and feel. Last year we contracted with an on-line vendor to make us an ash table expecting it to look very similar to our bar top. Based on the vendor's recommendation, he finished the table using Rubio Monocoat (RM). When we got it we were disappointed to find that it had a very pale color as compared to the warm look of our bar top (see photos). In addition, it seemed to have a much rougher surface and you can also feel the seams between the boards on the table, unlike the smooth joints on our bar top. .

I'd like to refinish the table to match the look and feel of the bar top. So, can I simply sand the table top with 150 grit to smooth out the seams, then go over the whole table with a finer grit (400?) then refinish with an oil-based poly?

[John TenEyck]

Yes, and maybe. Yes, you can clean and sand the one with the RM that you don't like and refinish it. Maybe you can use OB poly, but it would be better to find out what was used on the island top if you want it to look as close as possible.

John

[Jim Becker]

Rubio comes in many colors...so if the same color was not used for both projects, there cannot be a match. Even with the same color, there can be dfference because of the wood used-- all ash is not the same -- as well as oxidation in the original

[Andrew Hughes]

The seams between the boards sounds like glue lines.
Not something that will go away. That color doesn’t match because it’s not the same finish. Your counter top looks like Rubios pure oil.
I think you can get it looking closer by sanding off the top coat and using pure oil.
Good Luck

[Allan Dozier]

Ugh. You may end up sanding both down and then finishing them the same.

[Charlie Martinez]

Thanks. I think it was OB poly.

[Charlie Martinez]

Thanks. I think the bar was OB poly, definitely not Rubio. I just have to get them close to the same -- they're in opposite ends of the room. I think OB poly should work, then.

[Michael Burnside]

Best thing to do would be to sand both down to bare wood, then re-sand up to 150, followed by a water-popping and then hand sand with the grain to 150 again. Rubio says 120 but I've done numerous stains at 150-180. I would use "Pure" but would test a small section first. This is the best way to get a match. Granted as Jim points out there may be some differences in the two tops, but unless you get to bare wood, you're unlikely to even have a chance at matching.

I can't explain feeling of the seams unless it's a poorly sanded table where the glue-lines were proud as Andrew suggests. But, if you do the above, it should be good to go.

Edit: I noticed OPs reply corrected the type of stain, but I left my post for posterity.

[John TenEyck]

The seams the OP mentioned that he could feel likely are glue lines, as Andrew said. They happen when the grain orientation isn't the same from one board to the other, an extreme case being edge gluing a QS board to a plain sawn one. As soon as the RH changes, you will feel that glue line.

John

[Charlie Martinez]

New Table.jpg
Just finished refinishing the table. Sanded old finish with 150 grit, followed by 400 grit. Wiped on one coat of oil-based poly followed by light sanding with 400 grit. Wiped on second coat of poly, then smoothed finish with 600 grit. It came out just like I wanted. And, what's most important, my wife loves it!

[Tom Bender]

Woo Hoo!

A good result