[OP]
Member
Hello,
I'm going to buy the above mentioned saw. I've spoken with toolsforworkingwood and they
told me it's too difficult to resharpen their blades.
But those spare blades sold by them are expensive.
Is that possible to use alternative cheaper blades?
Thanks
Regards,
Haitham
Contributor
Yes, you'll need to drill holes in the ends for the cross-pins, but lengths of bandsaw blades cut to 12-inches and fitted with pins can be used.
I bought the Grammercy bow saw when it first came out. I didn't care for the blades at all. Too thin and flimsy, like long coping saw blades, so I took a spent bandsaw blade from work and used that. I had to fit it and refile the teeth, it took hours. The trouble was that the available 3/16 or 1/4-inch bandsaw blades have a very coarse tpi 4-6. 3/16 is better for a turning saw, in my opinion, at least on a 12-inch saw. You can get finer teeth on 1/8-inch (10 tpi iirc). They are available from Highland and a 72-inch blade will cost you about 20 bucks, but would give you 6 blades. You may be able to find something similar where you are.
The economics work if you have time and the ability to cut the blade, drill the hole, source and fit the pins (I used stainless steel music wire).
But if you are going to start with a spent woodworking blade, that you have to re-tooth, and if you don't have a drill press with carbide bits, it gets harder to make it work. You might be able to refile a 4 tpi into an 8 (or a 12), but I imagine that after doing so, the price of the Grammercy saw might seem more reasonable.
DC
Contributor
I bought the kit and made my own when they first introduced them (I wanted the hardware/blades and didn't have a lathe at the time to turn the handles). Imho, the blades are excellent once tensioned properly. Idk if I consider them expensive... time or money I suppose but I'm completely willing to let them cut, drill, pin, set, etc the blades for me and give them the extra two bucks for the work involved.
Contributor
The Frame Saw I made...uses an 18" long Butchers Meat saw blade....already pinned and ready to go. I also used the hardware to hold the blade. tensioning was via a length of all-thread, and a wing nut on the handle end....other end was simply bent down into a mortise..
A Planer? I'm the Planer, and this is what I use
[OP]
Member
Thank you guys.
The Gramercy is lovely but too much effort. The blade issue seems to be tedious. Even Joel from TFWW doesn't have
a definitive answer. He wrote to me, if you find an alternative to the original blades let me know. For now I will stick to my Knew Concepts and
as I have time I will plan and create an "ad hoc" tool based on the bow saw tradition and on my needs
3 blades 15 euros. If I want a long lasting sorting of 30 blades thats 150 euros. That's too much
Cheers
Contributor
How many centuries you are going to live?Originally Posted by Haitham Jaber
Contributor
30 blades seems like lifetime supply and then some. As I mentioned in my post before, I had the Grammercy saw. I didn't get the kit, it was fully assembled. It was beautiful, but as I said, it didn't like the blades, the coarsest blade was too fine or me and too narrow. It worked best as a big, awkward wooden coping saw. But as a turning saw (to work longer, gentler curves) it worked less well, at least for me).
Before that I had a Marples turning saw that I liked better. It had a 6 mm wide blade at 10 tpi and that suited me better. I ended up selling them both, and I regret selling the Marples. Later on I bought an antique tool chest that came with a beautifully made (user made I think) turning saw. It's blade is 8 tpi, which is fine. For turning cuts, I'm always well off the line and then drawknife, spokeshave and scrape to the line.
DC
Member
When you say bowsaw, are you talking about the small turning saws or the larger ones which are used as a general continental rip / crosscut / joinery saw?
For small turning saws, bandsaw blades are perfect and work great.
For larger saws, I prefer to make my own blades from spring steel of appropriate thickness and measurements. It doesn't have to be terribly hard. Just any blueish spring tempered steel, 40-50 hrc. All you need is a good dose of patience and determination to file the teeth in. First time's quite a bit of work, but you'll have a great blade you can use for decades and resharpen, and you can make it and any more like it exactly however you want.
[OP]
Member
Luke Dupont thank you. I have some 1095 (hrc 48 - 51) spring steel sheets from Precision Brand, different thicknesses. The saw I'm talking about is this one:
https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/GT-BOWSAW12
Blades seem to be very thin, do you think it would work cutting a taller blade so that I can then clamp it in a saw vice for resharpening.
I don't really understand the difference between turning and bow saw. It's a new subject for me. Could you explain me the difference please?
Thanks
Last edited by Haitham Jaber; 12-02-2023 at 6:07 PM.
Contributor
Like others many years ago I bought the Gramercy bow saw kit when it first came out. I enjoyed using it but the blades were less than ideal. With many years collecting dust, reading this thread has revived my desire to use it.
Just curious, has anyone made bow saw blades using a backsaw plate. I wanted a dovetail saw with crosscut teeth but LN couldn't supply one refiled, so I bought the crosscut saw from LN and cut it down to the same dimensions as the dovetail saw. The saw plate was easy to cut down using a metal shear, leaving a clean cut.
Looking for your thoughts, would it be reasonable to purchase a .020" plate, file your choice of teeth, cut off the strip to your desired width (1/4"- .5" etc.), drill the pin hole with a carbide bit and restart the process.
Contributor
Mcmaster Carr sells blued tempered steel in various thicknesses and widths. I looked at them when I did mine (years, maybe decades, ago). I ended up repurposing an old bandsaw blade. I'd see what McMaster -Carr offers to see if you could find one the that's the right size already, before you buy a rectangular plate and cut strips. But yes you could certainly do as you suggest.
DC
[OP]
Member
Ah you fricking lucky people that have mcmaster carr in US. Here in Europe... nothing
Contributor
Perhaps you could describe what you intend to use the saw for. The TFWW bow saw is basically a fret saw, as depicted in the picture in the link you sent. If that's what you intend to use the saw for, the blade size is perfect. If you're looking to use the saw for ripping or crosscutting, like for mortise and tenon joinery, then this is not the right saw.
Since you're in Europe, saws like these are available: https://www.fine-tools.com/gestell.html.
Rafael
Contributor
Geesh! Sorry, I didn't even think to look at where you were posting from! But cutting down a larger plate if you have access to one is a fine solution.
DC
[OP]
Member
Thank you man... don't worry.
I have a knew concepts... shorter blades. If I want to cut an ogee on a chest leg in a 3/4 stock I would do it but it takes longer. A bow saw seems to have more weight and blade's length. Since I like to make tools I will build a bow saw by myself in the future and make it complaint with the steel that I have here, I guess.
Unless I get lazy and spend the money that I saved for my grave to buy the last bow saw.
Cheers
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