Chasing my tail on a long edge joint

[James Pallas]

Back in 2020 I did several posts about flattening and edge jointing using string lines, winding sticks, and other tools. The string line is the most important part of it. I believe they are titled Using a string line. You may find those posts useful.
Jim

[Jim Koepke]

And, people on here were wondering WHY Stanley and others offered a fence for their Jointer planes....Hmmmm?

Stanley offered all kinds of items on which they felt people would spend money. This is how businesses make money.

Many wonder why anyone with experience would need a jointer fence.

Do you use one?

jtk

Can't find them around here...then again...I don't have projects quite as big as the OP's.....5' long is about as long as I seem to do...

Did you ever think that maybe there aren't that many because people didn't find them very useful?

One problem is the face the fence rides on has to be straight and flat before working the edge. If not, any imperfections can transmit to the edge. Give it a bit more thought and you might realize if a person can get a face flat and straight, they can also likely plane the edge flat and square.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Or...MAYBE so useful that nobody wants to sell theirs? 2 sides of THAT coin. All depends on what one is trying to sell....isn't it

Then "Fence" I use on all my jointers ( and is a case of one size fits all).....fence hooks onto the side of the plane, right about at the front handle/knob. the rest of the Fence curls down, and under the side of the plane..

Fence? My Left Hand. Was used by people LONG before any fancy MADE fences were sold. Left Thumb hooks over the left side of the plane. Index and Social fingers are UNDERNEATH the sole on the left side of the plane..and ride against the face of the wood being jointed...even has "wear marks" on them from all the rubbing. 2 fingers, so I can feel IF the plane is trying to tilt along the way...the rest of the fingers? They are just trying to stay out of the way...

That Fence will fit on any of my planes, from the #3c, Type 11, up to the Stanley No. 8c...

And, since I am going WITH the grain, instead of against it, there is little danger of catching a splinter along the way.

As for the subject from the OP ( remember him?) Something strange IS going on, indeed....when one has two LARGE planks, that one can barely move around, and yet has a gap between them with no high spots making contact along the joint? Maybe, slide a thin 3 x 5 index card along that gap...I think you will soon find the Spot(s) that are causing that gap.
A Nov. Project, Tues., edge jointing.JPG
And..
A Nov. Project, Tues., 2 edges jointed.JPG
There is NO gap, top board has a slight bow, and creates a shadow line...
A taste of shellac, top, 1st coat.JPG
And..both boards are in this panel.

BTW: IF you are so offended by the thought of a fence on a Jointer...better go and remove the one on that electric powered one...( your Bias is showing....)

[Jim Koepke]

BTW: IF you are so offended by the thought of a fence on a Jointer...better go and remove the one on that electric powered one...( your Bias is showing....)

No offense "by the thought of a fence on a jointer" and no electric powered one in my shop from which to remove a fence.

My objection is to suggest spending money on an accessory will somehow solve the problem.

And, since I am going WITH the grain, instead of against it, there is little danger of catching a splinter along the way.

My fingers have also been used in this manner though most of the time the face they are riding on has been planed and made sure to be free of splinters.

This thread has become similar to so many sharpening threads where someone asks more experienced users for help with a problem they are having with a plane.

One "expert" will chime in about trying the Paul Sellers method with the convex bevel. Someone else will mention needing a secondary bevel. Another "expert" will instruct the knowledge seeker about using the "ruler trick." Then finally some one will insist the blade needs to be cambered.

Then after all of this is done there is still a problem. Is the problem with the Sellers method? The secondary bevel? The back bevel? The camber?

To my way of thinking it may be better to solve the problem with what the OP already has on hand instead of spending money on things that may or may not solve the problem.

jtk

[John C Cox]

Edge jointing is technique and experience more than anything else.

Do NOT "Match" plane where you clamp both sides together and then plane. The only thing this accomplishes is doubling the error by putting the "Oopsies" on both boards.

Hand planing will tend to create hollows where the work is clamped and proud areas halfway between clamps. Use this effect to your own benefit.

Plane one edge, checking often with a ground straight edge and a square. Then do the other. Then "Candle" the boards together using a light source underneath to verify the whole joint dry-fits gap free. As some have said, it's probably preferable to err with a slight gap in the center that closes with minimal clamp pressure.

Do mark the show faces of the boards, and candle with the show faces on top and in the correct planned orientation with the light underneath.

Do set your plane for nearly transparent, but full width shavings. Jointing works best when the plane is super sharp and the shavings are really thin.

So, for example, you have trued up your planned glue joint surfaces, candled, and found too much hollow in the middle. Rearrange the clamps towards the ends and work each board's jointed face, start with planing the ends preferentially, and end with a full length shaving. When doing this, pay attention to the defect size and try to split it between the boards. So say you candle and estimate a 0.020" gap. That's 0.010" per side, or about 5 thin shavings off each board to true things up and one more full length shaving so you don't have lumps where it starts and stops.

Pay attention to your clamp and hand pressure locations. It matters.

It takes a bit of practice, but you'll get it.