How would you go about cutting this?

[Jonathan Jung]

I've not used the Festool router rail adapter much and find it tricky in situations where the adjustable foot of the router is riding off the workpiece. So I made a shim out of UHMW that keeps the router flush with the top of the rail, supporting it's entire base.

How would you go about cutting this slot?

What I'm doing is cutting a slot for the back edge of a desk to organize cables. If I were to be batching these I'd outsource to a CNC.

2023-11-27_19-10-26.jpg
2023-11-27_19-09-49.jpg
2023-11-27_19-09-56.jpg
2023-11-27_19-10-09.jpg
2023-11-29_11-34-43.jpg

[Michael Burnside]

Hmm, I would have used the edge guide instead of the track, but looks like it worked to me. That said, given the size of the workpiece, I'd probably just use my CNC to be honest. I know...I'm not a real woodworker, I'm ok with that.

[John TenEyck]

I'd make a template with a fence on the bottom front edge to position it correctly against the work piece, and use a guide bushing on the router to cut the full-length slot. For the lower half I'd hot melt spacers into the slot, where needed. Flip the workpiece over and route from the other side. One template to do both sides.

John

[scott vroom]

Straight edge, clamps, and a router.

[Tom Levy]

Thinking the same as John, a quick jig/template with bushing or mortising bit. Registers to edge, clamps on, provides end-stops and a straight line to guide. Especially if doing a couple of these make two versions, one with the added keys for the gaps on the bottom run.

[Jonathan Jung]

The template would have worked. 5 minutes at the tablesaw and miter saw would have one.

I strongly dislike any sort of edge guide where the tool can come away from the guide. I prefer captive guides / templates because the router can't go anywhere except where it's wanted.

[Michael Burnside]

The template would have worked. 5 minutes at the tablesaw and miter saw would have one.

I strongly dislike any sort of edge guide where the tool can come away from the guide. I prefer captive guides / templates because the router can't go anywhere except where it's wanted.

I've used them without issue. Since you asked me how I would do it, I answered, wasn't really thinking it would be a debate about the "best way". Of course if this is going to be a production run then a dedicated template is in order without question.

[George Yetka]

2 quick clamps for stops and the edge guide. But your way works just fine

[Warren Lake]

Id just use one of those adjustable things for the bottom of the router a fence thing that slides from side to side and tighten it tight.

The router walking is not a concern used them many years. I use a better bit than that and drop down to the lowest level then use pencil lines to mark where I plunge in and cut through. Maybe have a backer on the bottom for blow out, depends on the bit used and the ply itself.

If the router is sitting on the festtool then you shimmed it for more base support id chuck both of them.

reading it again sounds like i meant full plunge in one pass but not the case, plunge depth determined by sound.

[mike stenson]

Edge guide, or template. Then again, I don't have a router mount for any rails, so that's just right out from the start.

[Thomas McCurnin]

Or, ...

Cut the top wider than desired, cut your slot-dado as one normally does, then trim the panel to size.