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Thread: What’s The Trick . . . .

  1. #1
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    What’s The Trick . . . .

    . . . . to not tearing up your knuckles when removing router bits from the collet. I am not gorilla torquing the collet nuts, just until snug. I have the large Milwaukee 3 1/2 HP router in my router table/lift and I typically end up having to pry up the collet nut (once it is clear of the threads) to remove the bit.


    FullSizeRender.jpg
    Please tell me there is a better way.
    Last edited by Mike Hollis; 12-06-2023 at 6:32 PM.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Hollis View Post
    . . . . to not tearing up your knuckles when removing router bits from the collet. I am not gorilla torquing the collet nuts, just until snug. I have the large Milwaukee 3 1/2 HP router in my router table/lift and I typically end up having to prior up the collet nut (once it is clear of the threads) to remove the bit.

    Please tell me there is a better way.
    There's two 'breaks' on my routers when I undo the collet. The first one is when it breaks free and spins, then there's a later one where it'll let the bit go.
    ~mike

    happy in my mud hut

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike stenson View Post
    There's two 'breaks' on my routers when I undo the collet. The first one is when it breaks free and spins, then there's a later one where it'll let the bit go.
    This was my thought as well. Another recommendation is to blow out the collet/nut periodically. On my CNC I do it after every tool change. This is what I use:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  4. #4
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    I have run Milwaukee 56xx routers for many years. They all run the same collets. As mentioned there is an initial break, then about one revolution, then a second break. and the bit should lift right out. If the bit is sticking after the second break I would disassemble and clean the collet, make sure it is dry, dry, dry, and reassemble it. Instructions for this are in your manual but basically you tilt the collet sideways to pop it out of the nut. To reassemble, stand the collet on a hard surface, set the nut on top of it and hit it with the palm of your hand to snap the collet back in.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  5. #5
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    Self-releasing router collets were a major step up in woodworking equipment. I think the only routers I ever had without them were sold new in the early 1970's. All the ones after then came with them.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M King View Post
    Self-releasing router collets were a major step up in woodworking equipment. I think the only routers I ever had without them were sold new in the early 1970's. All the ones after then came with them.
    And all the PC 690's that I have have been converted to self releasing collets.

  7. #7
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    Mine too, immediately after I had the first one in my hands.

  8. #8
    When you put a bit into a router, push it all the way down. Then pull it up, off the bottom, one eighth of an inch. Then tighten.
    That will assure that the bit is correctly seated . There must be room for the collet to squeeze and hold the bit, used to be in all
    directions. Many companies have been told by lawyers that they are better off giving small bits of info , NOT boring info that no one
    will read . Only place to get good info is a real workman.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mel Fulks View Post
    When you put a bit into a router, push it all the way down. Then pull it up, off the bottom, one eighth of an inch. Then tighten.
    That will assure that the bit is correctly seated .
    I Agree with this statement, But what I do is place an "O" ring in the bottom of the router and it automatically sets the bit at the 1/8''
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 12-07-2023 at 10:11 AM. Reason: fixed quote tagging
    Richard Poitras
    Central, Michigan....
    01-02-2006


  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by richard poitras View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Mel Fulks View Post
    When you put a bit into a router, push it all the way down. Then pull it up, off the bottom, one eighth of an inch. Then tighten.
    That will assure that the bit is correctly seated .
    I Agree with this statement, But what I do is place an "O" ring in the bottom of the router and it automatically sets the bit at the 1/8''
    Milwaukee routers have an extremely deep hole. I slip the O-ring around the router bit shaft instead for these routers.
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 12-07-2023 at 10:12 AM. Reason: fixed quote tagging
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  11. #11
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    Collet is independent of the cutter. There has to be some clearance between the depth of the collet and the shank bottoming out.

    If the shank is bottomed, the collet can't tighten. And the cutter walks itself out ..

  12. #12
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    There is a better way. Muscle Chuck saved my knuckles. The PC 7518 in my table was a PITA to change bits on. I installed a Muscle Chuck and couldn’t be happier with it. No more fumbling with wrenches, just one Allen wrench.

    https://musclechuck.com/portfolio-view/type-10/
    Please help support the Creek.


    "It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
    Andy Rooney



  13. #13
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    I have a large PC 7518 in my router table. I just take the wrenches, break the collet nut loose and then using a wrench I tap lightly on the collet nut. I haven't experienced problems with stuck bits.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  14. #14
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    squeeze the wrenches together..
    Yes, I have 3 phase!

  15. #15
    thats just a flesh wound. What Mell said dont bottom, what andrew said align the wrench offsets so you can sqeeze or I often put one wrench on and it rested on the bench and tap the other wrench with a hammer. That worked fine

    On my routers mostly porter cable its 1 you loosen the nut then if the bit is still tight I tap the collet lightly one hit and it will be loose.

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