Best way to make lots of 1/8" slots

[Anthony Whitesell]

I need make LOTS of 1/8" slots. Mostly in pine but also some in plywood. I think the best way would be table saw. But where can I find a 8-9" tablesaw blade with a fat tooth (min., 0.125, preferrably closer to 0.140 or 9/64) that won't break the bank? Or do is there another method I haven't thought of that won't break the bank. P.S. I already considered the router but the slot would be 1/8" and nothing more and the chances of breaking the bit are pretty high given the number of cuts I have to make.

[Brian Tymchak]

How thick is the stock?

[Michael Burnside]

I'm sure you can find a cheap blade, but I use the 10" version of this blade.

https://ridgecarbidetool.com/collect...ox-joint-blade

If you know someone with a CNC that's another option.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Slots will be 1/4" deep. Stock will be 1/2" and 3/4" thick.

[John TenEyck]

Use whatever blade you want and take it to a blade shop and have them put new teeth on it at whatever width you want. Then use a sled with an insert spline on your tablesaw to cut the slots. Make a slot, index over the spline, cut the next slot, etc.

John

[Warren Lake]

put a slight shim on the arbor or the blade and it will wobble. Normally id say watch out for compression end of cut but its pine.

[Jim Becker]

Along the line of what John said, most "standard/thick" kerf blades are .125" or close to it, so it's a matter of the tooth geometry. Bades with rakers are commonly available in the 10" size, so if your saw can run a 10" blade, that would likely be a good way to go since the same blade can also be used for many other operations where a flat bottom is desired including wider grooves for other projects. For Forrest products, the 10" WW-II with the #1 Grind produces flat bottoms, for example. If you are restricted to the smaller blade diameter by your particular saw, then the "off the shelf" options are less common.

[Warren Lake]

how deep are the slots. One job or 100. have you measured what your saw gives you from a .125 blade. ive cut thousands past only to find what was going in came in oversize so bought a wide belt sander to reduce it.

[Anthony Whitesell]

It is a 9" tablesaw. I am limited to a 9" or less blade, hence the specificity of the blade size in the OP.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Slots will be 1/4" deep. Stock will be 1/2" and 3/4" thick.

Several projects over the next few months, all requiring 1/8"-9/64" slots.

When I find a 0.125" wide 9" blade for a reasonable price (sorry $100+ isn't a reasonable price to me), I'll let you know.

[Warren Lake]

find some shim stock and try what I said it works. Stuff you do to make a living. I have blades over 250.00

[Ray Newman]

Amazon has some 8" blades under US $60.00 and cheaper:

https://www.amazon.com/table-saw-rip...e_browse-bin_2

Most rip blades cut a flat bottom kerf. You may need to purchase an 8" rip blade and have it re-sharpened to the dimensions needed.

[Warren Lake]

doesnt say if ripping or cross cutting better figure that out first

[Michael Burnside]

Slots will be 1/4" deep. Stock will be 1/2" and 3/4" thick.

Several projects over the next few months, all requiring 1/8"-9/64" slots.

When I find a 0.125" wide 9" blade for a reasonable price (sorry $100+ isn't a reasonable price to me), I'll let you know.

I always find it interesting that people put little to no value in their time and effort. If this is going to be something worth your time doing and it is going to be on several projects I really don't understand why wasting all this time to find a cheap solution when several are already given. Not to mention, a good blade can be re-sharpened numerous times, yielding long term savings.

But OP, you do you...good luck.

[Richard Coers]

You can make a .125 standard blade cut wider by placing a piece or two of masking tape on the saw arbor back washer on one side. It makes the blade a wobble dado blade. Next option is a couple or 7 1/2" blades for a skill saw and see if you can use that for the slot. Some of those blades are really thin.