Odd gluelike "failure" Titebond III - insights?

[Ron Citerone]

Others may offer another opinion on the acetone and would like to hear them. I feel it evaporates so well that if you give it a week or so before applying finish the board I don't see any problem with it. A week is overkill but if you are working on several projects as discussed in another thread that's the way I would do it.

With that said I would avoid gluing any wood that requires an acetone wipe. I know many are beautiful and add a great accent look. It might be Mother Nature saying it wasn't meant to be.

[roger wiegand]

Acetone is extremely volatile. It will be completely evaporated in a a matter of minutes. Your body produces quite a bit of it every day as a matter of normal metabolism, you breathe it out when your blood exchanges gasses with the air in your lungs.

[Ron Citerone]

Acetone is extremely volatile. It will be completely evaporated in a a matter of minutes. Your body produces quite a bit of it every day as a matter of normal metabolism, you breathe it out when your blood exchanges gasses with the air in your lungs.

Thanks! Never new about the body producing it.

[John C Bush]

I made a fly fishing landing net for a friend. Thought I'd make it "special" for him and I used two strips of bloodwood and one inner of oak. Tough to steam and bend the bloodwood but
got it in the jig with TBIII. Turned out beautiflly--but as I was stringing the net I torqued the frame and it delaminated. Imagine the grief I woiuld get if he lost the prize winning stealhead catch of a lifetime because my choice of wood and glue!!

[Marty Gulseth]

It’s been a few days, I’ve been a bit distracted. (And, the forum has been BUSY!) For those who may be interested. Did some test glue-ups, convinced myself that my glue was OK. Learned about the oils/resins in tropical hardwoods and potential effect on glues. I settled on sanding the separated edges to 180 (or maybe 220, already in my sanding block, then wiped with alcohol, it was what I had on hand. Redid the glue on the two failed edges, let cure about 30 hours. All good after, gift gets wrapped tomorrow ( that detail NOT my department!)

[Marty Gulseth]

It’s been a few days, I’ve been a bit distracted. (And, the forum has been BUSY!) For those who may be interested. Did some test glue-ups, convinced myself that my glue was OK. Learned about the oils/resins in tropical hardwoods and potential effect on glues. I settled on sanding the separated edges to 180 (or maybe 220, already in my sanding block,) then wiped with alcohol, it was what I had on hand. Redid the glue on the two failed edges, let cure about 30 hours. All good after, gift gets wrapped tomorrow ( that detail NOT my department!)

[Rich Engelhardt]

Thanks for coming back to this.
I was sort of hoping you had called Franklin tech support to see what they thought.
It sounds like some sort of contamination - possibly due to oils in the wood - was at fault.

[Curt Harms]

It would be interesting to hear what Franklin Intl. has to say. What I remember attributed to a tech at Franklin Intl. is that the perfect glue joint using titebond is smooth straight edges and clamped so the glue thickness is 1 molecule. It seems unlikely to me that the clamps we use in home shops have enough clamping force to squeeze joints such that there is not one molecule of glue remaining. Of course if the joints are imperfect that changes the conditions.

[John TenEyck]

Good deal. I think that 30 cure helped, too, considering you were using bent laminations with some spring back.

I hope your friend does indeed land the catch of a lifetime in the net you made for him.

John

[Marty Gulseth]

Thanks for coming back to this.
I was sort of hoping you had called Franklin tech support to see what they thought.
It sounds like some sort of contamination - possibly due to oils in the wood - was at fault.

I am now convinced that oil in the exotics was the culprit. I may have failed to mention, but I did a test glue-up on some domestic scrap with the glue on hand. The joint held intact, including serving my clamping the piece in a vice and pounding the joint with a small sledge! That convinced me that the glue was OK.

[Rob Luter]

I'm glad that the issue seems to be resolved. By the sounds of things all you did to the edges was sand them? I ask because of an instructional video I saw on planing glue line surfaces with a jointer. The demonstrator made it a point to say the jointer (or any other plane used to prep edges to be glued) should never have wax applied to the sole. It might slide better, but any wax deposits left on the edge will reject glue. While that seems like a "Mr. Obvious" kind of thing, I'd never thought of it.