A Martin T23 for me.

[Brian Holcombe]

They’re 3ph but you may be over estimating the ‘easy’ part .

[Brian Holcombe]

Working through the electrical. I have it running, need to wire up the push buttons and oil pump.

I tested it for a second, then shut it down since I need to setup the oil pump. Replaced all of the oil lines and fittings. Naturally, someone worked a tapered fitting into the spindle when they replaced the original pump. Thankfully it did not damage the original threads, so I just put a proper parallel thread fitting in its place.

The replacement pump was basically just along side the machine, wired with a lamp switch and hose-clamped lines in.

I’m learning about oil pump systems as I do this, the pump is a Bijur Surefire PDI, it will pump into an injector which can be setup to get the right amount of drips per minute.

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replaced the push buttons and lamps. After all said and done I’m going to have Tom make a nice place for it.

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[Brian Holcombe]

Got the oil pump going. This was a fair amount of brand new information for me, it was difficult to figure it out without much easy info around. Patrick Walsh helped out a lot, he has an air/oil system but I wanted something closer to OEM and didn't want to need an air line.

The oil req. on this system is something to the effect of about 3 drops per minute. Most oil pumps put out a continuous volume of oil, this is problematic. So, then one needs an oil pump which can put out droplets. This is done with an inline restriction unit called an injector. These are sold at various different sizes. These exist mainly so that a distribution network of oil lines has enough resistance that the oil doesn't just flow down the path of least resistance. It also allows for metering.

I lucked out when I purchased this Bijur PDI pump as I did not actually have a complete understanding of what I needed. This pump can be setup to pulse, so I set it up to pulse 4 seconds every 15 seconds. This produces enough pressure (450psi) to open the injector and pump out one droplet that is .06cc. These droplets stackup and run through the FEP tube in the system. There is essentially no pressure in the plastic line, aside from that which is produced by the weight of the oil. Even so, I fitted everything with stainless or nickel plated brass 'push to connect' fittings, these replaced the original fittings with a ferrule. I did this mainly because the original stuff was a hodge-podge, but also because 7mm line doesn't have any modern fittings associated with it aside from barbed fittings which I personally despise.

I took the spindle out and removed the top cover of the unit to see what was happening. Even pulses of oil every 15 seconds, great.

Right now I have this setup so that it runs when the machine is armed, but I will change it so that it runs when the machine is running. Wanted to make sure I could prime it for a while without the machine running. Thankfully, the way this is designed, the bearings don't run dry for quite a long time, I drained the spindle previously and there was still a lot of oil floating around the unit.

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For some strange reason I felt the need to clean up and paint the foot pedals. I figure since they are part of the e-stop system, they should be different than the machine and in some sort of high visibility color. Mission accomplished on that one.

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Naturally, all of these photos turn 90 degrees. Perhaps the admins can fix this?

Onto the start/stop control wiring.

I bought a Harvey G700 dust collector for this shop but it's going to take a bunch of weeks for them to get it to me, so I'm going to fix 'er up with a Horror-Fright special for a few weeks.

I've got a couple Pro-Lock spindles en route. 1-1/4" for the typical stuff and a router collet spindle.

[Larry Edgerton]

The brake pedals on my Uni are orange, makes sense to me.

[Warren Lake]

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[Joe Calhoon]

Foot pedals look good Brian. Mine were black and green originally but I painted them silver metallic. My old EMA shaper had orange for the brakes.
Thanks for the info on the oil system. Mine quit working, need to dig into that.

[Patrick McCarthy]

Brian, nicely done, sir.

Warren, thank you for the photo flipping magic.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks, gents! Warren much appreciated!

Glad to help, Joe! Hopefully yours is an easy fix, but if not then this is seems to be a viable solution.

[Warren Lake]

black on one SCM Orange on another. That will change to red, orange doesnt fit with the colour scheme, I noticed stop signs are red.

[John Pendery]

Brian, looking really nice! I’m curious about that oiler system. Are you running that off the vfd or is it powered separately? I have a couple machines where an automatic oiler would be nice to have, but not sure how the installation would work.

Thanks for taking the time to post these updates and photos. My favorite threads are machine rebuilds like yours, Joe’s, and Marks etc… I learn a lot from the photos alone. Not sure why they always post sideways. I’ve noticed if I edit and turn the photo sideways and then back upright on my phone or iPad before posting they are right side up, but have no idea why this extra step solves the problem.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks, Warren!

Thanks, John! I've learned a ton from threads like these, so happy to contribute to it. Funny enough, I have been wiring the VFD into the push button controls and searching for my old threads was helpful. I posted up the programming notes on practical machinist and it was a huge time saver.

The oiler is currently running when I turn on the disconnect. I will probably change that so that starting the motor also turns on the oil, but I'm undecided. I have a 24v relay which is setup to operate through the VFD, so likely that's the route I will take. No real need to have it pumping oil when the machine is not running and the bath is such that it really doesn't seem to need to have the oil pump running before the machine is turned on.

[Joe Calhoon]

Figured out the Oil problem on my T23. It was pumping oil just not up to the sight glass. Oil level was below the bottom line on the reservoir. Filled it to the top line and it pumped like crazy till oil went up to the sight glass and back to normal now. Glad you are doing yours Brian, it has me looking closer at mine. I have a Aigner bar that covers the sight glass and makes it difficult to see. I’m going to drill a hole through the bar to make it easier to keep an eye on.

[Brian Holcombe]

Excellent, good to hear that it was something simple!

Measured runout with my Pro-Lock spindle, now that I have something reliable it's nice to see the results. The runout is .001", so I'm going to clean the bore a little more and see if I can get it down further. I've got new bearings but I'm not yet convinced that the old ones are the culprit.

[Matthew Hills]

Just gonna say that I got off my butt to renew membership so I could see your restoration pics, Brian.

[Brian Holcombe]

Much appreciated!