LT 18 Resaw Master new motor

[Dan Barber]

Robert, I understand that the motor shop said your unit was “near death” but did they elaborate beyond that? I have no experience in motor repair but did have many customers get their motors re-wound. I mean, it’s just magnets, copper windings, bearings, and a capacitor, right? Just wondering if you explored that possibility with them? Inquiring because I don’t ever seem to recall a customer sharing that their motor was so far gone that it couldn’t be repaired.

Erik

Erik,
I agree, a good motor shop should be able to rebuild that motor. If unable to find someone to rebuild it, I'd look for an equivalent IEC motor before messing around with modified mounting and pully gymnastics.

[Bill Howatt]

I was told by a motor shop that the cost of rewinding a motor that is under, say, 10 HP (IIRC) is not worth the labor and materials cost compared to replacing it. Of course, if you have motor that is not easily replaceable by a common type then the equation can change.

[Erik Loza]

I was told by a motor shop that the cost of rewinding a motor that is under, say, 10 HP (IIRC) is not worth the labor and materials cost compared to replacing it. Of course, if you have motor that is not easily replaceable by a common type then the equation can change.

Bill, I think the OP definitely falls into your category. It’s a metric-framed 5HP motor. Can you imgine how much time/work would be involved in trying to source out a direct replacement with appropriate rpm, shaft size, etc., versus getting the original unit rewound (if possible)? I’m super curious now.

Erik

[Brian Holcombe]

Shouldn’t be terribly difficult to get a new one. Order from a European brand rather than try to convert US stuff. Pick a similar HP motor with the same frame size, rpm and input voltage/phase.

I like a brand named Lafert.

[Tom Trees]

I'd personally want to make sure I wasn't paying a fortune to source a replacement like for like,
without knowing if the lower portion of the chassis which the motor is bolted to,
was aligned with the upper wheel.

Might as well upgrade the machine IMO to make the saw fully adjustable, so that the wheels can be aligned,
(without upsetting things)
as it ain't no fun repairing wheel bores.
Playin the lottery otherwise.
.
All the best
Tom

SAM_7935.jpg

[robert totorica]

Robert, I understand that the motor shop said your unit was “near death” but did they elaborate beyond that? I have no experience in motor repair but did have many customers get their motors re-wound. I mean, it’s just magnets, copper windings, bearings, and a capacitor, right? Just wondering if you explored that possibility with them? Inquiring because I don’t ever seem to recall a customer sharing that their motor was so far gone that it couldn’t be repaired.

Erik

The issue is even on the bench with no load, the motor draws 26amps. The full load current is 25amps. This is why it trips the thermal overload after running for a while. There is only one reason it would do this and that is shorted windings.

As far as repair with new windings, he said they don't do it much anymore because it isn't financially feasible until you are talking about a motor that is 100hp or more. Like everything else, I think the cost of labor is killing them....

[Tom M King]

Just for curiosity, call these people:

https://www.electricmotorshopnc.com/...wind-facility/

[robert totorica]

Tom, thanks for the great insight on what I have coming my way. I just closed a deal for a 3hp 4 pole motor for $175. It will take a little work to get it mounted of course....
Here is a pic of my situation. Like yours, the closest interference for the larger 5" pulley is the belt tensioner rod but it will clear with a 1/2" to spare.


Image-3.jpg

[Tom Trees]

I've since had a look at the saw in question, with the job in mind,
to see if looks like it's as easy as on my 24" ACM saw, and seemingly the most complicated issue one might have is bolting it to the right hand side of the machine.
There's about an inch of steel plate between the motor mounting bolt and the section let in for the trunnion,
so it would complicate matters slightly, perhaps bridging the gap might be the way to go, in order to have a fixing on each corner.

If thinking of hooking the motor up too quick, since you sound very speedy in that regards
Note if it has any housings to consider, as one may need to orientate it in some particular fashion to not foul against something,
that's considering it'll need be let into the machine slightly.
Be interesting to see if you're 18 inch wheels will give a reading with the scribing beam, as I mentioned alignment matters
especially regarding a pulley what's double the size. mine is a 3 phase 2 pole motor BTW, so perhaps a bit less thought needed,
as I see this machine comes in single phase, should the replacement have some differing shroud.



,
Bandsaw-Pic-11-465x308.jpg

Here's some links for that, as with all my links possibly better to read backwards
That's assuming you've bought a flange mounted motor, if not then not much else to see there.
http://www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk/viewt...hp?f=23&t=8456
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f27/d...on-ye-244105/2
All the best
Tom