Miter Saw Fence ???

[Cameron Wood]

Sounds like you do a lot of this and that. I don’t have to measure anything,I just move it to the rule and lock..

I've not had much success with pointer and scales being accurate, reliable, and visible over the years, so I don't have any set up.

I do do a lot of this and that, & many miter saw cuts are rough- within an inch of a tick mark, or direct measured, & often cut to tick marks at both ends.
As I've ranted about elsewhere, my standard method is to grasp the stock and slide my hand up against the end of the miter saw table, then make partial cuts creeping up to the line. This is quick and accurate and allows for making fine adjustments within the thickness of a pencil line. It only works if there is space for the hand between the saw and the extension tables.

[jack duren]

Glad it works for you , but in a shop full of employees and the guy cutting doors takes sick, I need to put any of the 10 guys in his position and produce parts that day. So there is no guess work. You gotta love those Biesemeyer jigs…

When it’s one person it’s easy. When you have to think for 10, that’s different..

How many employees Cameron?

[Cameron Wood]

Glad it works for you , but in a shop full of employees and the guy cutting doors takes sick, I need to put any of the 10 guys in his position and produce parts that day. So there is no guess work. You gotta love those Biesemeyer jigs…

When it’s one person it’s easy. When you have to think for 10, that’s different..

How many employees Cameron?

A commercial shop is a different case, and I don't think applicable to the OP. I have mostly had one employee as a general contractor. None now as I attempt to be semi-retired. I've made kitchen cabinets in the past, more recently it's mostly trim and custom bits and pieces for residential jobs as well as furniture and woodwork for fun and for sale (not really profit 'tho).

[jack duren]

I’m all commercial…closest to a Biesemeyer

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=...6BAgBEF0&nis=8

[tim walker]

These appear to only work with a vertical fence, which I am trying to avoid.

[jack duren]

Then I’m unsure what your trying to accomplish..

you need to post pictures..

[Roger Feeley]

I made my own fence from plywood. I used a 1/2”-20 x 3’ all thread with a Morton Quill Stop to position a plywood flip stop. i used nylon bushings in the flip stop and they’ve shown no signs of wear after at least 15 years of use. the quill stop can theoretically adjust to .001” but, hey, it’s wood.

I put the all thread about 2’ from the blade and I have a 2’ piece of plywood as a spacer for small parts. The flip stop and the spacer have magnets so when the flip stop moves, the spacer moves.

[tim walker]

Here is a pic. I do not want a raised fence. Te Bisemeyer seems to only work for raised fences. smc9.jpg

[jack duren]

Not sure what your trying to gain, but good luck to ya..

[tim walker]

Maybe this helps. There will be drawers behind the in-table fence. The in-table also allows to use the top as a work area and allows clamps to be installed as hold-downs also. smc9.jpg

[Jim Becker]

Here is a pic. I do not want a raised fence. Te Bisemeyer seems to only work for raised fences. smc9.jpg

Lots of folks have done the embedded track for stops without a raised fence. Most I've seen have put the track back far enough so that when the stop is, um...un-stopped...it's back out of the way and when flipped forward and locked down, it captures the end of the material being measured and cut. The rule tape is recessed so it doesn't impact keeping the material flat on the support table. The beauty of this method is that the work surface is clear for any use and not having the long, raised fence is particularly helpful when the material is more rough and may not have a straight edge. Most cuts really don't need the fence, but with an embedded track, one could easily have a short auxiliary fence available to slide onto the track for times when longer edge support is desired/required.

If I even embraced a miter station again (doubtful), this is exactly the way I'd do things for having adjustable stops on the table. If you want a more recent reference to a video, Almfab on the 'Tube (Michael Alm) incorporated this into his new miter station not all that long ago.

[Cameron Wood]

If drawers are sitting directly on the work surface, any stock, stop, or other stuff must be moved in order to open the drawer, every time, forever.

[jack duren]

I wouldn’t do it because I don’t want to clear the dust out the way every cut.

[tim walker]

If drawers are sitting directly on the work surface, any stock, stop, or other stuff must be moved in order to open the drawer, every time, forever.

Its not like that is difficult to do tho, removong a single;le stop block to access drawers, or a matter of just sliding the stop block out of the way.

[tim walker]

Do you not do that at your tablesaw everytine you use it. That is what vacuums are for and this will have two 6" dust collection connected to a 4 hp dust collection system .