Struggling with sharpen plane blade after cambering

[John Erickson]

Turn that blade 90* to your stone, use your fingers to hold the blade flat on the grind of the cutting edge, start at the right corner of the blade go forward and roll the blade the same time. I'm right handed.

[Tom M King]

That LV guide looks good if the blade you need to sharpen has a slot. My Scrub plane doesn't. The Record 161 works like a charm with it, as well as short radius cambered jack plane irons. There always seem to be some for sale in the UK on ebay, but I don't know that I've ever seen one here. Mine came from the UK back when a small packet was 5 or 6 dollars to ship.

[chuck van dyck]

I was just honing the iron on my #40 yesterday. I am in the middle of getting a 96x24 cherry slab flat for a credenza commission. Unfortunately my planer maxes out at 20”.

I free hand but I find it helpful to hold both stone and iron and bring them together that way. So hold iron in non dominant hand, and use your dominant hand to control the polish. Since you don’t mind grinding it really doesn’t matter how perfectly you are registered to the bevel. Any inconsistency will be ground away next time you need to grind. Get get the stiffest buffing wheel you can find and put it in a drill. I use a 4” ryobi from hd. Get it nice and broken in with compound and touch up the polish as needed.

Sounds to me like you still haven’t hit the edge. Probably the back still needs some work.

[Tony Wilkins]

I’m wondering if I need a stone more coarse than 1k?

[steven c newman]

Since the OP is using C. Schwarz as a guide to flattening boards with a plane...also in that Woodwright's Shop show...they show HOW to sharpen that 8" radius....may want to go back and take a look? "Handplane Essentials" is the episode, I believe....

Just a thought...

[Bob Jones 5443]

Does it work for you on very rough sawn boards? It’s my preferred way for pre planed lumber but figured it would be too slow for the rough stock and uneven panels I’ve been working on.

In my shop, that’s what the jointer and planer are for. The hand plane — almost always the 5-1/2 — whisks away the machining marks and dials in precise dimensions. Certainly, in a shop without the luxury of those machines, we need the plane to do more. So I guess I ask less of my planes than some.

I can also imagine an application where you want the finished board to retain some rough texture for aesthetic purposes. Then it would be good to have a scrub plane. My work is more conventional than that.

One might want a scrub plane for rough wide slabs, too, of course. I rarely work with them. When I flattened my birch bench, I just used my 607, but the surface was just wavy, not very rough.

[les winter]

IMG_7109.jpgIMG_7108.jpg

No slot? No problem. This gadget is called a ball transfer. Readily available and cheap.

[Jim Koepke]

No slot? No problem. This gadget is called a ball transfer. Readily available and cheap.

Also known as a ball caster.

jtk

[Tony Wilkins]

Haven’t been back to it. Just using the LN blade in my smoother. Not ideal but a good lazy solution.

[Ted Calver]

For those with a Tormec, this just popped up on my YouTube feed. Shows sharpening of blade for Stanley No 40.

[chuck van dyck]

Haven’t been back to it. Just using the LN blade in my smoother. Not ideal but a good lazy solution.

taking the path of least resistance isn't lazy. you just wanna make something. tools work for you, not the other way around. I use whatever I have however needed to get a job done. Some specialty jig is only gonna take up space. I believe CS would approve of this tactic.

[Tony Wilkins]

For those with a Tormec, this just popped up on my YouTube feed. Shows sharpening of blade for Stanley No 40.

I’ve wondered if I should have gotten a Tormek instead of the grinder. Are you trying to feed my TAD?

[mike stenson]

I have both, my tormek sits under a bench 99.99% of the time.

It's great for turning tools, but I don't use it for planes. It's way too slow.

[Tony Wilkins]

About to bring the top in the house (if the wind cooperates). It’s not perfectly flat on the bottom but it’s close. The traditional folks (CS, M &T, Folsanbee, Cherubini) talk about how rough secondary surfaces are. I think I’m at that point. I’ll look at it again once it’s been inside the house a while for twist, movement, etc. it’ll be cut down in length anyway.

[steven c newman]

As noted elsewhere...stand to the side of your oil stones...lock the tool in place by locking your arms tight to your body.....use your hips to generate the movements...and move in a Figure Pattern to sharpen a Cambered edge.....Schwarz uses Olive Oil....I use 3in1 oil....Place the plane iron back into the plane...sharpen again in..maybe a year?


I use a Great Neck Corsair C-5 as a scrub-jack....been in use for several years now....been sharpened twice...once when I bought it, and once 2 years ago...8" radius. Chip breaker is set to the edge of the irons corners...no, I don't need it radiused to match the iron's camber...not needed.

A few years ago...I needed a glue up of Ash planks....3/4" x 16" x 54" to make to the of an Entertainment center....C-5 Scrub Jack flattened the panel, leveled the high spots down to flat...then the panel was smoothed with a #4 Stanley....YMMV, of course..