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Thread: Grizzly G0959 Jointer/Planer Review Lite...

  1. #1

    Grizzly G0959 Jointer/Planer Review Lite...

    Not much posted on this machine anywhere, so I thought I'd post in case anyone is interested. The lead is, I like it, but it's not without it's issues. I've had several jointers and few planers, the last of which was a MM FS30 Smart that I just sold to downsize. I wanted something that would be smaller and lighter and could do passable work, so I chose the Griz G0959 Jointer/Planer. I did consider other machines like it, as they are likely all made at the same factory, however I know that companies can call for their own specs to be followed by the manufacturer. I chose this machine for its helical head, greater capacity and Grizzly's reputation for offering good, solid machines.
    The G0959 came fully assembled, but for the fence, so assembly was no sweat. The reviews that I did see said that the machine worked right out of the box, so I tried mine and found I was not so lucky. Out came the One-Way Multi Gauge and Veritas straight edge. All indications were the tables were surprisingly flat, although not at all co-planer. First I set the outfeed table even with the helical cutters using brass shims in the ways, then I uot the infeed table co-planer with the outfeed table, again using shims. Having to shim the ways was a trial and error pain, however since I won't be raising or lowering the tables once set, it worked out ok. Here's the weird part...it has always worked for me to make the outfeed table even or .001" below the cutters, however this time, my the best jointed edges came from the outfeed table being .005" below the cutters. At any rate, I ran some 4 foot boards through the freshly adjusted tables and it produced very flat and smooth surfaces, something I really didn't expect. Will the ways hold adjustment over time is a concern, however only time will tell.
    I then ran some 10" wide boards through the planer. As long as I didn't cut too deeply, again the surfaces were very nice and from edge to edge, the thickness difference was .004", which is close enough for me. Initially, I did get some snipe, however supporting the ends on infeed and outfeed eliminated that. After making sure the planer was working to my satisfaction, I installed a Wixey remote digital readout, which will be a big upgrade from the OEM thickness gauge.
    Now for the fence...it's pretty solid and works well on the jointer. My fence wasn't real flat from top to bottom, so I had to shim the length of the face with some UMHW .010" tape. The one big pain is, the fence has to be unscrewed and removed from its base to make room for the dust shroud when using the planer. It sure would have been nice if the fence could just slide back away from the table to make room for that shroud, however that's not the case, as it is stationary and only has one position over the end of the cutter head, which is a drag. That fence design is the real drawback to this machine.
    So...it's a very nice little machine that exceeded my expectations. It joints and planes flat on 4 foot boards and likely longer, producing smooth surfaces. The main draw-back is the stationary fence, that has to be unscrewed and removed every time you switch from jointer mode, to planer mode, to make room for the table mounted dust shroud, which is mediocre at best, in dust collection. Coming from jointers and planers that cost several times what the G0959 cost, I'm very happy with its performance as it exceeds my expectations, the one caveat being the fence, which I'm working on. If you're looking to downsize, but don't want to give up quality jointing and planing, I can recommend the G0959. so long as you don't mind putting in a little time and effort on the common J/P adjustments.







  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    10,010
    Size? A ten inch planer is a benchtop machine? Probably very short beds. Being benchtop is it a screaming dc motor?
    Bill D

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    Size? A ten inch planer is a benchtop machine? Probably very short beds. Being benchtop is it a screaming dc motor?
    Bill D
    Actually, it’s a 12”. My MM was a 12” as well, however it has Teresa knives. I find the Griz is quieter, but at a higher pitch. I’m sure the helical head helps with noise reduction. I don’t find it bad at all and was expecting much louder. The tables are shorter, a total of about 42” and I just ran a 6’ board through it resulting in a very straight edge, so I can’t complain there.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    E. Central IL
    Posts
    132
    Derek,

    Good write-up/insights on your GO959. Would appreciate some added details on your jointer table shimming. I have attached a pdf of the Grizzly GO959 IPB showing the in/outfeed tables and front/rear rails. How did you add the shims, what did you use for shims, etc. My GO959 still appears to be aligned ok for my use, but would like your experience for possible future use with my machine.

    Regards,
    Attached Files Attached Files

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Hartranft View Post
    Derek,

    Good write-up/insights on your GO959. Would appreciate some added details on your jointer table shimming. I have attached a pdf of the Grizzly GO959 IPB showing the in/outfeed tables and front/rear rails. How did you add the shims, what did you use for shims, etc. My GO959 still appears to be aligned ok for my use, but would like your experience for possible future use with my machine.

    Regards,
    Ok Tom, you asked for it. There are two nuts holding on the cover of the ways. Removing those exposes where the table meets the ways and it’s where the manual says you should lubricate for smooth operation of indeed table height adjustment. There are also two slots so the table can actually move. I used brass shims of various thicknesses cut in short, 1/8” wide strips and placed inside the slots, between the mating surfaces. Shimming around the higher screw raises the table nearest the cutter and shimming around the lower screw raises the end opposite the cutter. Also note that how much you tighten the nuts on the covers effects the tables adjustments as well. My infeed table stays at about 1/32”, so I’m hoping the adjustments stay put. Trial and error, check a recheck and patience, along with a good known straight edge and dial indicator. Good luck.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    E. Central IL
    Posts
    132
    Derek … appreciate your follow up info on shimming.

    Ref photos ... I removed cover of outfeed table front rail and took a photo looking down on the now-open slot with cap screw in place. So, it appears that you had to vertically insert your ~1/8 inch wide shims into the open slot and then slightly bend/insert it horizontally into the small gap between the underside of the outfeed table rail support and the top of the round rail that the cap screw goes through? If so, did you insert each shim 1) slightly down around the sides of the round rail between mating surfaces or 2) axially along the top of the round rail between the mating surfaces?


    IMG_0830.jpgIMG_0832.jpg
    Last edited by Tom Hartranft; 01-12-2024 at 4:33 PM.

  7. #7
    Tom, I slid 2 shims on either side of the slot, between contact surfaces, above the upper screw and then 2 more below the lower screw. They are short shims and must be bent to fit in those narrow slots. You may only have to shim above or below the screws depending on how your table is sitting. I had to use a shim on top of another shim to get it right. I’d like to take a picture of what I did, however if I do loosen the cover nuts, I’ll throw off the adjustment. There must be an easier way, but I just couldn’t figure it out. This was the best I could do. That said, so far so good. Good luck. Report back.

  8. #8
    Hope this helps…


  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    E. Central IL
    Posts
    132
    With benefit of your helpful shim placement post, I shimmed my infeed table this morning. Using a four foot level, there was a visible slant going from the outer inlet edge of infeed table to the end of the infeed table at the cutters ... ~0.015 inches from front to back. Not much, but visibly noticeable via the four foot level. So, armed with your helpful info, I gave it a go on eliminating the downward slant.

    I used plastic sheet stock shim material that I had on hand. Cut a ~5/8 inch long x 1/4 inch wide piece of shim material and inserted around the top of the round infeed table rails and under the mating table underside mounts. Attached is a photo of blue shim material positioned around top of front infeed table rail. Did same for the rear infeed table rail. Via trial and check, wound up using 0.005 inch shim on front infeed table rail and 0.003 inch shim on rear infeed table rail. Then slightly lifted the table and got some lubricating oil between mating surfaces. Snugged the cap screw nuts onto their covers just enough to still give me smooth up/down infeed table elevation cranking movement. Cranked the infeed table cutting height up/down couple of times to ensure mating surfaces were well matched. Then used a four foot level to confirm the downward slant had been eliminated. Looks good to me.

    Appreciate your ongoing info exchanges.

    Regards,

    Tom

    Resized IMG_0833.jpg
    Last edited by Tom Hartranft; 01-13-2024 at 4:05 PM.

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