Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: Opinions wanted - resawing rosewood for veneer

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Mt Airy, Maryland
    Posts
    9

    Question Opinions wanted - resawing rosewood for veneer

    I received a sizeable amount of "rosewood" (species unknown but I'm sending a piece out for testing) in trade for building a garden shed for a co-worker.

    One project for the rosewood is a dinning room table -- veneer over an MDF substrate. I'm concerned that my bandsaw is not up to the resaw task and was considering finding a shop to do this for me.

    I've never done any veneer work, so I need to do some reading, research and practice with some other stock before using the rosewood.

    Before I begin, I thought I'd ask:

    Do you have an opinion/recommendation about the thickness of the veneer?

    Is MDF the right substrate?

    Is this too big of a challenge given that I don't have a vacuum press?

    The rosewood varies in thickness (5/4, 6/4, and even some 12/4) and generally runs 12 inches wide by about 6ft in length.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    SW Michigan, Paw Paw
    Posts
    76
    Given the thicknesses you have available you might wish to consider thin-coat as opposed to venier. Resaw to about 3/8 then joint and resaw again. Either plane, or my preference, thickness sand to about a 1/4. You then have stock that is more substantionl than venier. That can be laminated to a substrata. If you limit the width to 6" or less you could apply to a plywood base, maybe 4" would be better. Instead of a vacuum press, use sand gabs to apply the gluing pressrue. Alternative, clamps and cauls, slighly curved to generate unifrom pressure. this gives you a true wood surface that can be worked with out the nasty sand thru problems that can (and always do) occur with venier.

    Hopefully helpful.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Shoreline, CT
    Posts
    2,923

    Veneer

    I would see no reason to go to as thick as 1/4" thickness. It would act more like wood than veneer and be more prone in my opinion to delaminate with seasonal moisture changes that the thinner veneer. I would aim for 1/16th of an inch full. Compared to the 1/50th of an inch used in commercial veneer now, that is a very substantial thickness-- similar to the stuff that has survived from the first decades of the 19th century. Which ever way you go, you MUST veneer both sides or you will have a curly table.
    Last edited by Steve Schoene; 02-25-2003 at 2:08 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Oak Harbor, Whidbey Island, WA
    Posts
    2,550
    Wear a mask this wood can really mess your lungs up.
    I usually find it much easier to be wrong once in while than to try to be perfect.

    My web page has a pop up. It is a free site, just close the pop up on the right side of the screen

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •