[OP]
Contributor
Hi all,
New blades, new tires (flat), new bearings.
I moved the bottom wheel (made a new spacer. They were out 3 mm) so that the bottom and top wheel are co planar.
I see the blade moving axially back and forth. Do the wheels need to be slightly out of plane to ensure the blade doesn't move like this?
Anything else?
I'm seriously considering re selling and buying something else at this point.
Cheers
Last edited by andrew whicker; 01-11-2024 at 3:18 PM.
Yes, I have 3 phase!
[OP]
Contributor
Yes, I have 3 phase!
Contributor
Have you tried a different blade? The weld may be misaligned. Put a straightedge along the back of the blade to check.
Bandsaws are the simplest of woodworking machines. If the wheels are aligned and running true and the blade is straight and properly tensioned it should not be pulsing.
[OP]
Contributor
I've tried 6 blades at this point
Yes, I have 3 phase!
Contributor
Sorry, I got nothing. It should be heavy enough to make a good boat anchor. Seriously though, are there any independent machinery techs in your area who would check it out? The only other thing I can suggest is putting a dial indicator on the wheels to see if they are out of round or twisted, in which case you could possibly have them machined true.
Contributor
Sounds like you have ruled out the blade so it has to be the tires.
I tried to install tires on a laguna saw once I was unable to make them work. The upper wheel hopped and bounced.
I took the wheels to a saw service where a old man said to me softly with a stern tone you just can’t put tires on them and hope for the best.
The saw ran smooth are they completed the work.
Good Luck
Aj
[OP]
Contributor
Yeah maybe the tires. That's my last thought too.
The od runout on the bottom wheel w tire installed is around. 008".
Not amazing but seems good enough for a bandsaw?
Yes, I have 3 phase!
[OP]
Contributor
Top is similar. A few thousandths better
Yes, I have 3 phase!
Contributor
How are you measuring runout? That actually sounds like quite a bit and may be causing your problem. There are a number of discussions about truing/crowning bandsaw tires on owwm.org, often on the saw using an adjustable jig and abrasives. It does seem to be common to have to bring new tires into round.
Contributor
0.008" sounds like quite a lot to me, but are you sure the blade is not in a tension harmonic? Have you changed tension to see if it gets better/worse?
And have you checked that the blades have straight welds, as Kevin suggested? Six blades from the same supplier might give you six unacceptable welds. Different suppliers, probably not.
John
Member
Still doesn't rule out a variable apex, the original ones were dressed on the wheel.Originally Posted by andrew whicker
The faces of the wheels on most machines bar very few, are nowhere near accurate enough to know, if yer talkin co-planar and using a beam.
And get what?
They don't make anything fully adjustable today, that machine along with some Meber's and perhaps one or two other Italian companies
might be the only example of a 600mm/24" wheeled machine you might find,
and none of them have dressed faces, so there's no getting away without doing so,
(on something without a crisp apex what's dressed on the wheel)
so that means the clueless trial and error ala in the Laguna manual, won't work the same.
I reckon some here might be getting fimiliar with the jobs for the boys philosophy, in which along with throwing off the competition,
also doesn't give the folks who ain't got the time to be modifying a machine what's paid for itself a straight forward recipe.
Things could be much worse ya'know... your bearing journals sound grand
but perhaps you need see some misery from the non adjustable designs of which we see today, for my writing to be believed.
All the best
Tom
[OP]
Contributor
I'm going to do this exact process including the new tires.
I haven't been impressed with the recommendation that came with my new tires... using gasket adhesive...
https://youtu.be/zz04k-GMF38?si=54u3p4zd2nVAiBK2
Always seemed too thick and never seemed to actually stick.
Yes, I have 3 phase!
[OP]
Contributor
Also check the runout of the metal wheels after they are cleaned
Yes, I have 3 phase!
Member
I don't see why the recommendation of using gasket adhesive being a bad thing, as the best stuff is branded as such, see Van Huskey's posts on the 3M stuff.
That indeed might be for the rubber like tires from Carter, or for the cork/rubber types.
Freehand grinding might actually work, on brand new tires, so long as you don't accidentally touch the apex.
Though on those tires what might be squishy compared to real rubber, the crown might not make all the things you see apparent now disappear,
compared what featured originally, and you might have to align the wheels and ensure the machine is set up for a longer time than what's planned on anything new.
[edit: dressing tires whilst machine being under power, looks extremely dangerous business, I wouldn't suggest someone try,
unless they don't like having arms]
Tom
Last edited by Tom Trees; 01-11-2024 at 10:34 PM. Reason: Forgot to point out the extremely dangerous possible sceanio
Contributor
Might just be me, but looks like it would cut wood good enough. I would do some testing with tension, and go to a smaller blade to see if it was happier. On a really old bandsaw with babbit bearings, I just had to run it with a little preload on the thrust bearing. Maybe not ideal, but it sure got the job done.
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