Moving 'START' button on Felder K700 saw

[Rick Potter]

I am fighting the start button on my Felder K700 slider. It is almost impossible to reach with any panel on the saw. Actually the last time I cut one, I had my almost 5 year old GG son crawl under and push the button. I usually push it with a stick. Pretty Mickey Mouse, I know.

It is a 2014 model, and I know they offered a remote button, but mine does not have it. I cannot find it on the Felder site, and probably couldn't afford it anyway.

Anyone know what I need to install a remote start button. Stop button is no problem when cut is finished.

Thanks

[Michael Schuch]

Most contactors / motor starters use a NO (Normally Open) button for a start button and a NC (Normally Closed) button as the stop button.

To add a set of remote start/stop buttons you need a NO button wired in parallel with the existing NO Start button. You will also need a NC button wired in series with the existing NC Stop button.



This link where the above diagram came from has a video explaining the operation of a second remote start/stop button pair.
https://opentextbc.ca/basicmotorcont...-push-buttons/

I use a 4 conductor cable for the remote start/stop switches. 3 conductors for the control lines and a 4th for ground.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Thread moved to this forum and given a bump for attention.

[Lisa Starr]

My son (he designs and installs CNC controls for a living) added a "remote" Start/Stop station to my SC2C. It permits either station to be used interchangeably. I'm not sure how similar the wiring of the two machines are, but I'd be happy to PM the wiring changes he made.

[Warren Lake]

I knock one of the shut offs by accident on the Slider a bit too often. Guy set up a remote stop start switch for the Roto phase. Very nice. Worth taking the time to do what you want to do.

[Bill Dufour]

Note that the power running through those switches is very low. Lamp cord or even phone wire is probably plenty big enough. Voltage may be low as well.
Bill D

[Nick Crivello]

I run into the same issue with panels as well. Would love a second switch on the tail like the new saws.

[Bill Dufour]

A stop or start only station only needs two wires and a ground. A stop/start station needs three wires plus ground. Two wires and a ground can be from the cheapest grounded extension cord you can find. Three wires with ground, harder to find, more expensive. Or use flex conduit.
If the stop switch is hidden I would recommend an illuminated stop switch in case something happens and your wife has to rush in and turn it off in a panic. My wife knows where the shop panel main off breaker is and also knows she can just turn off the house main breaker, just in case. Would she remember in a panic? probably not.
22mm is the standard industrial switch hole mount size. The actually button runs 40-60 mm and bigger. Search for 22mm stop switch
Bill D.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/40442477283...Bk9SR8K6v8inYw

https://www.amazon.com/Alpinetech-Em...SABEgI0KPD_BwE

[Rick Potter]

Thanks for the replies. Some very helpful answers.

Michael, thanks for the video. It took me two tries to realize it was actually working, at first I thought it was a still pic. It explained it very well.

Now..where should I put the new buttons? Would a coiled wire hanging from the slider with buttons on the rear be best, or maybe something above the table? Has anyone done this? I searched you tube with no luck.

[Michael Schuch]

Thanks for the replies. Some very helpful answers.

Michael, thanks for the video. It took me two tries to realize it was actually working, at first I thought it was a still pic. It explained it very well.

Now..where should I put the new buttons? Would a coiled wire hanging from the slider with buttons on the rear be best, or maybe something above the table? Has anyone done this? I searched you tube with no luck.

Your welcome, I am glad it helped.

When you figure out where to put the remote start/stop let me know. I am just finishing up the restore on my slider and I already know that the factory start/stop location REALLY sucks!

[Bill Dufour]

Thanks for the replies. Some very helpful answers.


Now..where should I put the new buttons? .

Why not both?
Bill D

[Sebastien La Madeleine]

Hi Rick,

I did this modification on my Hammer K3. One word of caution, your Felder, if single phase, might require more than what was indicated by the previously posted diagram. I suggest checking the wiring diagram of your machine.

In the case of my Hammer machine, I needed 6 wires to go to the new start stop location.

2 wires for the stop button, 4 wires for the start button. The reason is that the start switch needs to be a DPST, two wires signal the contactor to turn on and 2 wires to put the start capacitor in circuit while you are holding the button. Finding the right switch was hard. I settled on these:
https://new.abb.com/products/1SFA611142R1102/mpd13-11g

With those push buttons you need to buy the right contact module and I was able to find the double on, single off button module.

Hope this helps you save some time and frustration.
Sébastien

[Rick Potter]

Thanks Sebastien,

Mine is single phase for sure. I should have mentioned that in my original post.

RP

[Travis Porter]

I have an external after the fact switch on my Felder. It came with it from the original owner. It has a decently long coil cord attached a high quality single gang plastic enclosure. There are a couple of magnets on it so I can move it along the track which I find pretty useful.

[Rick Potter]

Travis pretty much describes what I am trying to do. Again, mine is 220V single phase.

I opened the switch box, and it has four wires. One in, one out for each switch. The wires are 18 gage at most, and the switches are by Eaton, and made in Germany. I have been trying to remove the wires from the switches but am not sure how. It looks logical, but nothing happens when I try to pull them out, and I don't want to damage anything.

I have found a nice coiled 10' wire made for trailer hitches, on Amazon. It is 18 Gage four wire, but I am confused why I need six per Sebastien. I am going to try to test start the machine with a simple jumper wire first, then go from there.

Meanwhile, a few days ago, I found that the belt driving the scoring blade was broken. I rarely use it, and have no idea how long it's been that way. Of course I needed it to crosscut some prefinished plywood. Found a belt on Amazon, just need to order it.