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Thread: Cabinet Drawer Question

  1. #16
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    It doesn't matter what size or depth you make them, some won't be right no matter what, and you will never have enough of them.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M King View Post
    It doesn't matter what size or depth you make them, some won't be right no matter what, and you will never have enough of them.
    Yes!

    This is the way.
    ~mike

    happy in my mud hut

  3. #18
    Consider the types of tools you'll store. Staggered depths can optimize space for various items. Maybe reserve a couple of deeper drawers for bulkier tools.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by tim walker View Post
    For lighter drawers(or drawers that may only have screwdrivers or pliers, is it ok to to just use a rabbit and 1/4" ply screwed and glued to the bottom or would you still use a dado unglued?
    For my router table, and also for my primary storage, the drawers were made with the technique where the bottom is the runner. It slides in a groove cut into the plywood sides. The bottom is simply glued to the drawer side bottom edge and stapled.

    I have been pleasantly surprised at how well they have held up over the years.

    I would not hesitate to glue it, and the crown staples I used worked well (and fast)

  5. #20
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    2x 3"
    2x 7"
    1x12"
    Seams to be what I should have done everywhere but only did it on my last set

    I did 6,8,8,12 or therabouts on my first set and I could have had more usable space.

  6. #21
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    Another drawer construction question - Building preferences = Butt joint with glue and screws, dados with G&S, Dominos with G&S, or a 45° Lock Miter Router with glue? TIA
    Tim in Hill Country of Texas

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by tim walker View Post
    Another drawer construction question - Building preferences = Butt joint with glue and screws, dados with G&S, Dominos with G&S, or a 45° Lock Miter Router with glue? TIA
    Dominos were quick, with brads. First time I've done that, would do so again for shop cabs. For some reason, I'm just not a fan of butt joints.
    ~mike

    happy in my mud hut

  8. #23
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    Forgot Pocket hole Screws (with or without glue)
    Tim in Hill Country of Texas

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by tim walker View Post
    Another drawer construction question - Building preferences = Butt joint with glue and screws, dados with G&S, Dominos with G&S, or a 45° Lock Miter Router with glue? TIA
    Dado the sides and rabbet the front and back. Easy square and extra glue surface. For a shop project just screw bottom to drawer. that way you dont lose the drawer space.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by George Yetka View Post
    Dado the sides and rabbet the front and back. Easy square and extra glue surface. For a shop project just screw bottom to drawer. that way you dont lose the drawer space.
    domino was faster, which kind of surprised me.
    ~mike

    happy in my mud hut

  11. #26
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    I was sucked into some youtube videos recently, testing this very question from a strength perspective.

    Some surprises to me: Butt joints are better than I imagined. Screws and dowels and dominos do not necessarily improve strength. Basic mitered joints or rabbet with glue were better than expected. Dovetails and box joints were not really worth the effort strength wise. Fasteners actually weakened the joint in some cases.

    So for the most basic functional drawer - simple mitered corners, glued, with a bottom simply glued and stapled on may be hard to beat in terms of simplicity to functional strength payoff.

  12. #27
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    Dovetails with glue
    Leigh D3 with two PC 690's that only change for depth. D3 finger spacing changes drawer to drawer, just too easy.
    Hobby shop, don't make money from it
    Ron

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carl Beckett View Post
    I was sucked into some youtube videos recently, testing this very question from a strength perspective.

    Some surprises to me: Butt joints are better than I imagined. Screws and dowels and dominos do not necessarily improve strength. Basic mitered joints or rabbet with glue were better than expected. Dovetails and box joints were not really worth the effort strength wise. Fasteners actually weakened the joint in some cases.

    So for the most basic functional drawer - simple mitered corners, glued, with a bottom simply glued and stapled on may be hard to beat in terms of simplicity to functional strength payoff.
    I think I saw that same video. Showed miter joints (like on a picture frame) were weakened using the bow tie inlay (splines on the edges were good tho')
    Don't know how legit his testing setup was.
    "What you see and what you hear depends a great deal on where you are standing.
    It also depends on what sort of person you are.”

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