Hidden drawer in "skirt" of bookcase - seeking guidance

[Art Mulder]

Hullo friends,

I'm toying with the idea of making a bookcase for two of my youngsters. In order to make it a bit special, one of the features that I'm considering is to put a "hidden" drawer in the skirt of the bookcase.

I've attached a fragment of a rough drawing of the bottom of the bookcase plan. I hope this clarifies what I'm thinking.

I'm thinking about making the bookcase about 36" wide, and the skirt would be about 5.5" tall, allowing me room, I think for a shallow drawer of about 4" deep. Being in the side of the bookcase, I could make it about 9-10" wide, by about 12-18" long. I was thinking I'd put dado's down the middle of the sides, and the drawer would ride on hardwood strips in the case.

Now, my concern is about how this might affect the strength of the bookcase as a whole. If you imagine looking down on the top of the bookcase understructure, the drawer takes a bite out, so instead of a rectangle, we've got a C-shaped structure. Is that a bad idea? should I try to put some front-to-back reinforcement under the drawer? I'd have to sacrifice some of the drawer depth, but if it is the right idea, then I shall.

Any other thoughts or advice?

[Dave Richards]

Are you sure you'd want to put the drawer in the side? That would require clearance on the side of the bookcase to be able to open the drawer.

Suppose the drawer was in the front. Side panels could be extended to the floor or near it with added feet, maybe leveling feet. If you want to add some strength you might add a center foot and make the drawer in two boxes with a common face.

If the drawers aren't as deep as the bookcase, you could add a stretcher across behind the drawer to stiffen things laterally.

I think the idea of a hidden drawer is a fun one.

[Martin Shupe]

One of my many projects in work is a bookshelf/nightstand for my son. I am planning on putting a skirt around the bottom, and a hidden drawer beneath the skirt. My bookshelf is only 15 inches or so wide, and I was planning on making the hidden drawer accessible from the back only. Not sure if that is a possibility with yours, but it might be something to consider. It would be harder to get to the drawer, but it will not affect the strength.

[Art Mulder]

Are you sure you'd want to put the drawer in the side? That would require clearance on the side of the bookcase to be able to open the drawer.

Suppose the drawer was in the front. Side panels could be extended to the floor or near it with added feet, maybe leveling feet. If you want to add some strength you might add a center foot and make the drawer in two boxes with a common face.

Hey, Dave,

Yeah, I know that side clearance would be an issue. The problem with a front drawer is that it would only be 10" deep, which seems awkwardly short. Actually, I was also thinking about having the front skirt flip down, or flip up, (down preferred) revealing a hidden shelf, rather than a drawer. But I haven't been able to think of how to put a hidden hinge in there that would do the trick.

[Dave Richards]

You could use knife hinges and one of those springloaded stereo cabinet type latches to make a flip down skirt board. Then, how about some shallow, lidded treasure boxes with handles on the ends instead of a drawer or shelf?

[Jim DeLaney]

...I was also thinking about having the front skirt flip down, or flip up, (down preferred) revealing a hidden shelf, rather than a drawer. But I haven't been able to think of how to put a hidden hinge in there that would do the trick.

What about using the hardware from one of those 'sink-front' kits that tilt down the panel in front of a kitchen/bathroom sink?

[Art Mulder]

What about using the hardware from one of those 'sink-front' kits that tilt down the panel in front of a kitchen/bathroom sink?

Great Minds, Jim...

My wife and I were just this minute thinking about that. However, when we looked them up in the LVT catalog, they don't appear to tip out much past 45-50 degrees.

Instead, I found the "4-way 175 degree" hinges from LVT. I wonder if that would do the trick with letting me pull down the front of the skirt. I should check them out in the store. I really only need like 90-100 degrees, so I dunno if the extra movement would be a problem or not.

Hmm, maybe just a pair of 95 degree full overlay Blum.

I think I might be wise to build this first in a mock-up...

[Doug Shepard]

I'm with Dave on the front vs side issue. What's likely to get stored in there? Documents? Money? I would think the 10" depth would be fine for those. My other thought is: Why make the skirt hinge? Why not just have the skirt be the drawer front and pull straight out?

[Art Mulder]

I'm with Dave on the front vs side issue. What's likely to get stored in there? Documents? Money? I would think the 10" depth would be fine for those. My other thought is: Why make the skirt hinge? Why not just have the skirt be the drawer front and pull straight out?

More like Beanie Babies and dolls... She's five, after all, and her brother is two.

I might reconsider the drawer, but I'm just not a fan of short (front-to-back) drawers.

[rick fulton]

Art -

Have you seen John Lubeski's hope chest?
Similar hidden compartment.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=28036

rick

[Cecil Arnold]

I added a hidden drawer on a closet orgainizer I built a couple of years ago, just to see if I could--build both that is.

Picture 1 is the bottom of the unit
Picture 2 is a floor level view, showing the small gap between the drawer and the bottom of the unit. This is not visable since there is a toe kick. I also put a hand hold in the top center of the drawer since the closet is in a hall and no one can get far enough away to see it without laying on the floor.
Picture 3&4 is the unit pulled out. Yes, we use it as a safe.

The drawer is really a "wagon" with wooden wheels and is held in place with magnetic catches normally used for cab. doors.