Please Help With Decision on Shooting Boards and Planes

[Mike Shields]

Long story:

Just purchased two glass stones and found that once my (hardly used) LN low angle block was properly sharpened, I was able to eliminate all machine marks and tear out, leaving me quite enthused for this new-found method over power tools. I've never had a project that didn't have machine marks...

After having spent hours (or days) reading about shooting boards, I'm uncertain about which board(s) types can and cannot do. An example of this is the Veritas board with track and fence (which is available right now) is not the best for picture frame miters, as I've read here in other posts. Picture frames are a primary project for me (but not the only), so I'm hesitant to make this purchase without knowing why it won't work.

Without chewing off too much, I need to start somewhere with a board(s) to help clean up some projects I have sitting here. I only have the LN low angle, and should receive a LN #4 by Tuesday, intended to use for long grain/faces where the mass should help. I'm not against spending...this is not my only hobby and sometimes it's easier just to purchase (as opposed to making) to get moving on a project, and then I can go ride my Goldwing or the mountain bike.

So now the Qs:

If I purchase a LV R hand shooting plane, is there a single shooting board that can cut 45 miters while also squaring small stock for boxes? Or, what would be the better approach for what I'm trying to do?

Thanks,

Mike in Denver

[Kent A Bathurst]

Can't answer the miter question, but on the plane[s]:

I have an LN #62 low-angle jack [with the hot dog]. Two blades with different secondary bevels. One low angle [38* included] for end grain shooting, and one higher [included angle at 50* - 55*] for long-grain. Not leaving well enough alone, I also have the LV shooting plane. Also with 2 blades, also set up the same.

In practice, I have the low angle blade on the #62 for the end-grain shooting board, and the high-angle blade on the LV for edges/jointing/ etc. But that changes sometimes.


The #4 will definitely be a nice plane, but at 4lb doesn't come close to the mass of the nearly 8lb LV shooting plane - that thing is unbelievable.

[Cliff Polubinsky]

Check with John Teneyck. He makes a shooting board that can do everything. Do a search for Universal Shooting board.

Cliff

[Eric Brown]

Long story:

Just purchased two glass stones and found that once my (hardly used) LN low angle block was properly sharpened, I was able to eliminate all machine marks and tear out, leaving me quite enthused for this new-found method over power tools. I've never had a project that didn't have machine marks...

After having spent hours (or days) reading about shooting boards, I'm uncertain about which board(s) types can and cannot do. An example of this is the Veritas board with track and fence (which is available right now) is not the best for picture frame miters, as I've read here in other posts. Picture frames are a primary project for me (but not the only), so I'm hesitant to make this purchase without knowing why it won't work.

Without chewing off too much, I need to start somewhere with a board(s) to help clean up some projects I have sitting here. I only have the LN low angle, and should receive a LN #4 by Tuesday, intended to use for long grain/faces where the mass should help. I'm not against spending...this is not my only hobby and sometimes it's easier just to purchase (as opposed to making) to get moving on a project, and then I can go ride my Goldwing or the mountain bike.

So now the Qs:

If I purchase a LV R hand shooting plane, is there a single shooting board that can cut 45 miters while also squaring small stock for boxes? Or, what would be the better approach for what I'm trying to do?

Thanks,

Mike in Denver

Here is another option for you to consider for miters and shoulders.

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....nes&highlight=

[Jim Koepke]

IMO, the best shooting board is a shop made board to fit your needs.

Here is an old post on shooting 45º angles with a few options > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?300906

My large shooting board is set up to work right or left handed so miters can be shot on either side.

It is shown in this post > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?244777

jtk

[Joel Gelman]

Check with John Teneyck. He makes a shooting board that can do everything. Do a search for Universal Shooting board.

Are these for sale?

[Tom M King]

The LV Shooting plane is a wonderful tool. I keep hoping for a job to come up that I need to buy a left handed one for.

[Kent A Bathurst]

The LV Shooting plane is a wonderful tool. I keep hoping for a job to come up that I need to buy a left handed one for.

Tom - I just completed another round of archeological digs through boxes and closets. Netted $800 in sales the LH version is only half. I plan to split the money 50/50 with my wife. Whatta guy, eh? I’m certain you have enough stuff to sell to cover it

[Keegan Shields]

As a fellow lefty, I can tell you - it’s awesome.

[Jim Koepke]

The LV Shooting plane is a wonderful tool. I keep hoping for a job to come up that I need to buy a left handed one for.

As a fellow lefty, I can tell you - it’s awesome.

I'm righty dominate but somewhat ambidextrous bought a lefty LV Shooting plane and yes, it is awesome.

jtk

[Tom M King]

I rarely sell tools. I just need a job that I can honestly deduct it against. I keep all my receipts, and if I ever get checked I want the auditor to sit there and hear what every tool is for. I'm not a lefty, but already have and enjoy the right handed version.

[Brian Cargnelli]

Hey Mike,
I bought the Veritas shooting plane, track and fence system but made my own board. Wanted something a bit wider for my needs than the ready made one. I find that I use the adjustable fence when shooting miters such as picture frames a lot. What I did was make a separate fence that I attached a strip of 320 grit sandpaper which really stops the work from shifting. I just swap out the regular fence for this one and I’m good to go. I also cut a 45 relief on the end of the fence to make sure I get clean cuts. Once I am really going for a tight fit I switch out to the Veritas shooting sander. I actually started using that doing kumiko grids and just naturally used it for picture frames.

Now for case sized miters I made a separate shooting board which I use my Low Angle Smoother. I was going to design a donkey ear style that I could attach to the Veritas fence, just decided to take the time to make a separate dedicated board. Hope that helps, good luck.

[Derek Cohen]

Long story:

Just purchased two glass stones and found that once my (hardly used) LN low angle block was properly sharpened, I was able to eliminate all machine marks and tear out, leaving me quite enthused for this new-found method over power tools. I've never had a project that didn't have machine marks...

After having spent hours (or days) reading about shooting boards, I'm uncertain about which board(s) types can and cannot do. An example of this is the Veritas board with track and fence (which is available right now) is not the best for picture frame miters, as I've read here in other posts. Picture frames are a primary project for me (but not the only), so I'm hesitant to make this purchase without knowing why it won't work.

Without chewing off too much, I need to start somewhere with a board(s) to help clean up some projects I have sitting here. I only have the LN low angle, and should receive a LN #4 by Tuesday, intended to use for long grain/faces where the mass should help. I'm not against spending...this is not my only hobby and sometimes it's easier just to purchase (as opposed to making) to get moving on a project, and then I can go ride my Goldwing or the mountain bike.

So now the Qs:

If I purchase a LV R hand shooting plane, is there a single shooting board that can cut 45 miters while also squaring small stock for boxes? Or, what would be the better approach for what I'm trying to do?

Thanks,

Mike in Denver

Mike, I have made many shooting boards of different types. Shooting boards are relatively simple to make, and I see making one's own as a rite of passage ... like making one's bench.

A shooting board for a picture frame needs to assist in creating 90 degree corners. This does not mean that it needs to shoot a perfect 45 degree mitre, but have two complementary mitres which add up to 90 degrees.

This type of shooting set up may be made up of a LA Jack and this style of board ...





The second photo has a guide rail added for the plane.

This single most important feature of this style is that the fences add up to a perfect 90 degrees.

Another style of shooting board is this ...



If set up accurately, you can do several ends at one time.

In a similar vein, a donkey's ear ...



However, it is possible to fine tune this via levelling feet ...

I could show you more complex shooting boards, but my advice is to start simple.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mike Shields]

Check with John Teneyck.

Cliff

Thanks. I've already PM'd John.

[Haitham Jaber]

Hello,

If it can help lastly I've spoken with Deneb of Lie Nielsen Toolworks and he uses Fore Plane no.6 for Shooting.
Another simpler way of shooting, that I've seen making by Schwarz is to raise the piece by half to one inch and just lay the handplane on the bench.
I use this a lot if I just need to refine the edge of boards.

^^