Who Stands with Alex Snodgrass on Drift?

[John TenEyck]

Thank you to all who have contributed to this thread. I believe my new machine has a crowned tire so I am going to try the Alex Snodgrass method. If that doesn’t work I can always do Plan B.

as long as the bandsaw works consistently, I suppose one could adjust to whatever they need to do to make straight cuts. Inconsistency and will drive you nuts chasing your tail.

Read the manual that comes with your saw. If it's a Grizzly, you'll find a well written manual if it's anything like the one that came with mine, and you can download and read it prior to the saw's delivery.

John

[michael langman]

I watched the video that Lee mentioned, followed the steps and have no drift.

Ditto. I too did this. with much success.

[Myles Moran]

If I remember correctly, Alex said that as long as the blade stays in the middle of the top wheel, it doesn’t matter if your wheels are coplanar. The location on the bottom wheel doesn’t affect anything. Did I get that right?

It's been a while since I've watched his videos, so I can't confirm his instructions. I'll add that the saw was very measurably out of plane and the adjustment was a few careful hits with a rubber mallet to shift the bolted joint. I measured the coplanar between the wheels with a level and a flashlight.

[John TenEyck]

And once you get the castings aligned, tighten that bolt really, really, really well. That bolt is carrying the full tension of the blade, so you want it to be prestressed, so it doesn't stretch under blade tension.

John

[Randall J Cox]

I'm with Lee. Michael Fortune video nails it. I've set up two bandsaws that way, an 18" and a 20" and both cut straight after adjusting the table to the band and the cut. Did not have to build in "drift" into my fences either. Good luck. Randy

[Randy Heinemann]

The answer, as others have said, is getting the saw setup properly and the Alex Snodgrass method works. Since I've used it, I get exceptional results. There are, o course, others who have slightly different steps in the setup but, in the end, if those methods work, they get the same results. Blade in the center, guides close enough to stop the blade from flexing to the side too much while not being in constant contact with the blade, and a table that is perpendicular to the blade and lined up properly. I bought the Snodgrass booklet many years ago and just have it there for when my memory fails me on one of the steps. Blade tension is only secondarily important as long as it's close to the deflection distance when putting pressure on it with your finger. Always, having a sharp blade is a requirement.

[Larry Frank]

The Snodgrass has worked for me. However, people have success with other methods. I am lucky because j have not had a "troubled" bandsaw.

[Curt Harms]

I'll just say, throw the factory blade away when you get the saw. They are notoriously horrible. I've never watched a second of Snodgrass advice. I learned how to use a bandsaw 55 years ago.

Throw the factory blade away? What do you use for a "nail finder" blade? But yeah, a good quality blade can make your life simpler and they don't last forever. It's probably not a bad idea to keep one or more blades for straight cuts and others for curved cuts. The theory being that non-straight cuts and create more wear on one side of the blade than on the other. Uneven side to side wear is a recipe for drift.

[Bert McMahan]

The AS method is a "how to set up your small 14" bandsaw for newbies" video. It's not supposed to the the bible on how to set up literally all bandsaws with all blades ever. Does it work for most 14" bandsaws? Yep. Most people that try it agree that it works, and it takes a few minutes to do once you get the hang of it. Does it work for a 20" bandsaw with flat tires? Probably not! They're different machines that have different design intents. Maybe it will, maybe it won't.

I watched that video a couple times when I got my Grizzly 14" bandsaw and got it set up and working the first time I tried it. Yes, the method definitely works, and the fence that came with my bandsaw doesn't have any drift compensation in it (at least that I can find, and the word "drift" isn't even in the manual). Spending an hour watching a video and twisting some knobs was much better than having to throw away a perfectly good fence and buy one with an adjustment in it.

I can't imagine getting passionately upset at a "how to tune your new cheap bandsaw" video (especially when the video shows a viable method, is safe, and is free to view).

[Edward Weber]

I can't imagine getting passionately upset at a "how to tune your new cheap bandsaw" video (especially when the video shows a viable method, is safe, and is free to view).

I don't know about passionately upset but the OP's question was/is, "Who Stands with Alex Snodgrass on Drift? "

Whether or not you find it to be viable, is your opinion, others express their views and experiences in different ways.

[Tom Trees]

Worth noting that blade tracking tutorials/opinions, and actual bandsaw setup are two differing subjects...
that is, for those who can't afford another machine, or indeed finding a machinist to repair their wheels.

Bandsaw setup ain't just for larger machines either, as seen in the link below,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ypbRAmWQVTo
Indeed, there's a chance that saw wasn't that great to begin with, which emphasises the point of setup/commissioning a machine really.
Much the same case as with some unscrupulous designs of saws being marketed today, setup is likely to be of more importance,
and I wouldn't be surprised to see a glut of those having wheel issues in a few years time,
simply because folks aren't differentiating between those terms, and assuming the manufacturers know best.

Though perhaps I'm wrong, and some of those articles mentioned do have such information,
but from what I've seen or read, there's very little information out there of such, so I'm guessing not.
Not to pick only on Mr Snodgrass, as it's the same thing with all of the names in the game.

[Carl Beckett]

Carl, how did you sharpen the blade?

A thread here on it. https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....aw-blade-drift

I used the technique in this youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SoaOkqi-xxs

[Wes Grass]

A friend had several Amada cutoff saws. Went in there one day and he was cutting 8 inch plus stainless. Not a problem ... get the feed pressure right ... and ...

He'd 'dress' the blade every few cuts with a large oil stone. On the sides... look at which way its drifting and dull the appropriate side to straighten it out. 1-1/4" bi-metal blades... not cheap ... just figured into the quote as 'perishable tooling'. And he'd squeeze every last penny out of them.

Biggest saws he had, HA-400, would do 16" round. I'd personally want to stay somewhere below 'forklift required'.

[Ken Krawford]

Thanks Carl. I appreciate it. The file he used is a bit unusual. Any idea what it's called?

A thread here on it. https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....aw-blade-drift

I used the technique in this youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SoaOkqi-xxs

[Carl Beckett]

Thanks Carl. I appreciate it. The file he used is a bit unusual. Any idea what it's called?

I do not know. There were some links from others with ideas. I had some flat diamond stones that I stuck to a stick and used those (not too expensive to source). Wondered if sandpaper stuck to a stick would hold up (perhaps zirconia cut from a belt).