Completely overthinking first table saw purchase. Please help

[Peter Mich]

You're going to get a lot of better advice from folks far more knowledgeable than me, but the first thing I thought is that the difficulty in finding a good answer is that you may be asking the wrong question.

I would suggest that a tracksaw is a better option than a small table saw for cutting up sheet goods. A combination of inexpensive track saw and lower priced jobsite saw may get you better, safer results at an equivalent cost.

Depending on your budget, you may be able to get the safety of the Sawstop after all.

I work in a very small space, and have found the combination of tracksaw and jobsite saw (mine is a Bosch, but I'm saving up for the Sawstop) does everything I need as a hobbyist woodworker in a safe and controlled manner. While I would like to have a centerpiece table saw with a huge outfeed table that would handle 4x8 sheets safely, there isn't room in my workspace or budget.

Since your primary focus is on cutting up sheet goods, I agree completely with John.

[Curt Harms]

If you're using a lot of sheet goods and work alone, I would certainly consider some sort of guided saw in addition to a table saw. I won't speak for others but trying to maneuver a 4 X 8 sheet of plywood onto a table saw by my self is not my idea of a good time, especially if the table saw doesn't have a half acre of room in front, back and sides. I find it so much easier to at least rough size panels right off the truck then trim if required and process. Even making just one cut to start goes a long way. I find a 4 X 4 or 2 X 8 reasonable to handle by my self though 8' can be a problem; that requires 16' clearway front to back. As far as saw, I have a G1023 with aftermarket fence and it does what I need it to do.

[Jim Becker]

Since your primary focus is on cutting up sheet goods, I agree completely with John.

Ditto. Track saw for the sheet goods...easier to handle and because of that, IMHO, safer and then a decent table saw for crosscutting, smaller rips, sled work, etc, that go into projects. 3/4" (18mm) sheet goods can be darn heavy for one person, even when they are not "mature" like many of us are, so bringing the tool to the material can have an edge, pardon the expression.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Stephen, here are my thoughts

1) cabinet and contractor table saws aren’t great for sheet goods, try a small slider and you’ll realize why

2) compare your healthcare costs to the delta for a saw with active safety features such as a SawStop and the decision becomes easy

3) your budget doesn’t allow for a slider so a SawStop and a track saw make the most sense

4) as a technologist I like old stuff and can repair almost anything, that said, new saws can have riving knives instead of splitters, better guards and dust collection, all important considerations

Have fun, please keep us posted on your progress, Regards, Rod.

[Carroll Courtney]

I can only speak from the saws that I have used in past, and given opinion on what I wish I had. If I had room at time and budget I would have purchase a slider, as saying goes you only have cry once. But my first purchase was Sears and their fence which was 70’s. After that it was Delta’s contractor saw with rip fence bars. After that it was older Unisaw with cast iron plinth and Biesemeyer fence. Different between night/day and how can person improve on Unisaw? Well I now have PM 66 I believe from 80’s which I’ve had for about last 30 years. Before retiring working for school district most of their woodshop machinery was all Delta/ Rockwell or PM, and it’s been that way for years. With that said, having a PM to me there is no upgrades needed for this hobbyist. I just need to keep my blade sharp and my biesemeyer fence square . Remember good saw is only part of journey, rest is up to user

[Ole Anderson]

Breaking down plywood on anything other than a large slider is a nightmare. Track saw to get to manageable sizes, than take it to the TS for precision ripping.

[jack duren]

If you know how to cut sheet goods on a table saw ,you won’t want a track saw.

if your not use to it, then get a track saw.

Sawstop, other… if you don’t want a Sawstop , just take a look at Grizzly. Used is great, but like anything used, it could come with future problems. New is great, but could come with future problems, but is nice to have new.

3hp is great for hardwoods, but if not buying to cut full sheet goods , you could scale down to a 2 hp.

Sliders are great for sheet goods, but a PITA working with small parts..

[Stan Calow]

I am a hobbyist too, and I have to point out that a consideration you have that pros do not, is whether the time you are running the saw is worth the cost of the saws you're looking at. My saw usage (SS contractor - costly enough) probably averages a couple of minutes a week. I could not justify a cabinet saw or something like a Unisaw - used or new. The few times a year I need to break down sheet goods I use a plain old circular saw and guide to make a rough cut, and clean up the smaller pieces on the table saw if necessary. If I did it regularly, I couldn't fit the extra indeed/outfeed tables into my shop.

I am curious as to why you referred to the SS contractor saw as a "hybrid" in the OP.

[Jimmy Harris]

For what you're doing, I think all of these saws are overkill. And if you're doing a lot of sheet goods, I really think your money is better spent on a track saw. Then, get a decent used contractor's table saw for ripping skinny boards and a miter saw, and you'll be all set.

If you're worried about safety, using the right saw for the job is a lot safer than using the best saw money can buy.

[jack duren]

Just see what you want at Grizzly. Check new prices and then do a used search on Craigslist, Marketplace. See what’s out there and make a decision.

[Mike Cutler]

If you know for certain that there will be a lot of sheet good work in your future, then invest in a panel saw. They take up very little space for what they do. A slider would be my next choice, but even with a slider, there is some muscling about that has to happen, and they take up a lot of room. With a panel saw the sheet is moved in the vertical plane and that is how most people pick them up.
For the rest of what you state you want to do, any quality saw, with a good fence, will be a one time purchase. I would particularly heed the advice to buy used. You can buy a much better used saw for the money, than new. A table saw is not a complicated machine to restore. Match mark any washers or shims, and the rest is pretty easy.
I'll stay out of the SawStop argument. Other than seeing them on the floor in Woodcraft, I have no knowledge or experience with one.

[jack duren]

Panel saws use a lot of space..why I never bought one…

[Mike Cutler]

Jack

I was referring to a vertical panel saw. I should have been more clear. A lot of home shops probably have more available wall space, than floor space. Not as accurate as a slider though.
I've never bought one because they can be very expensive, even the "cheap ones", and that's before a person even factors in the cost of the saw, and blades.

[Warren Lake]

Auction prices are what they are and I wont generalize statements as last two auctions I saw had some very good prices. maybe even one of those verticle saws for cheap as well. having worked on cabinet saws getting an entry level slider is a thing I should have done a long time ago. the saw is so much better than cabinet saws are. Ill get a full size slider next but keep this one as I can rip like a cabinet saw, what im used to.

[Stephen McBride]

I am curious as to why you referred to the SS contractor saw as a "hybrid" in the OP.

Just double checked and I misspoke. The contractor is indeed the one I was looking at, I called it a hybrid because my mind was on the similar looking Grizzly G0692.

Wow, thank you everyone for all the responses. Definitely a lot to consider!

One thing I left out is that I am planning on keeping my detached garage 120 V so that would limit my options.

I'm new to the used market. There doesn't seem to be a lot available in my region (I'm in the Connecticut tri-state area) from looking on FB, Criagslist, IRS Auctions/ estate sales and Google. Any tips for websites to check?

And yes, cutting down a 4x8 sheet on any saw in my range will always be a challenge. Currently I have the store or mill cut down to 2x8 to fit in my CRV and then use a circular saw and guide to cross cut then I rip on the table saw to the final dimensions. Planning to keep to this method unless the project is big enough to have a truck drop off all the sheets (next big project is a banquette and some built-ins so probably going to be ordering full sheets for this).

My wishlist for this is getting pretty long including a Festool TS 55, some sort of 1-1.5 HP dust collection, paint sprayer parallel clamps and an electrician to set up the subpanel in my detached garage so I can rewire for a proper shop (keeping it 120 V but I'll have two 20 Amp circuits and two 15 Amp to run everything). so I'm going to keep going over what everyone here has said to consider for the purchase.


Edit: Going to the SawStop battle, I hate it too. I fully understand the desire to have it. I have a young family and would like to utilize all ten fingers as well as my life when I'm around them for the most part. Being a hobbyist, I'm not under deadlines besides the wife complaining about how long its taking and I take my time. A hefty, sturdy saw definitely makes me feel safer when working and I will be building proper outfeed for the saw no matter what I get.

The idea of a CTS built-in to a 4x6 assembly table is of interest to me as I don't see myself ripping 8/4 hard maple anytime soon (famous last words as my wife wants a new mantle...) and the power of the DeWalt I've been using seems to be enough so far. It's mainly the rigidness and heft that has me uneasy about the jobsite saws.