SCMI Nova F410 jointer

[Warren Lake]

One SCM shaper is the same, both combos have the grooves running length ways. Not a thing to be concerned about. Id say it wears a bit faster than a flat top. The combos are about 60 years old with a ton of use before i got them. They are still likely more true than some new stuff.

[Rod Sheridan]

I have a jointer with a Euro bridge guard, I really like it.

To make edge jointing easier, I bought a second guard extrusion and cut it in half.

Regards, Rod

[Phil Gaudio]

I agree that the euro guard works well: much better than a 16" pork chop.

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[Warren Lake]

the only time that board would be exposed is the last few inches and id just use the heal of my hand or cause im typing on a forum my push thing on the heal. I like the one push things ive made for a jointer as its so comfortable to use.

Cant tell how long it is but its approaching support for in feed and outfeed.

[Phil Gaudio]

Warren: It was the only picture I had at hand of the euro guard. The slab is going to be the seat of a shaker bench: it's 8/4 cherry 6' long. I face joint it without supports but I do use roller supports when planing it. I did use the guard when face jointing this beast, but the guard does not get in the way, at least for me it's not an issue. I think its around 60 lbs: machining this has been lots of fun! Phil

[Warren Lake]

figured it was cherry but not the Pennsylvannia stuff I used to get as its not as pink but photos change colours as well. Thos Moser gets a whole whack of prime cherry. Good for using support then you can focus on the work and not be strained keeping stuff down. I cant judge the size or length there but looked like over 70" approx. When i checked my machine tables they show me that past owners often didnt use support often just from the leading edge wear, its very little but shows. Its irrelevant in operation and I looked just more out of interest. Dangerous to not have outfeed support on longer heavier stuff.

[Brian Holcombe]

What is the euro guard actually guarding? I think the folding pork chop is about as good as it gets for a jointer (all of the guards for jointers are not great) the euro guard has the same exposure but also provides a bunch of stuff to be in your way on the outfeed table. This puts the operators workspace directly over the cutter head.

[Larry Edgerton]

Agreed. I have had both and prefer the porkchop.

[Jim Becker]

Different strokes.

I love the bridge guard and despise the porkchop. Maybe I'd feel differently if I did a lot of edge jointing, but I don't. I flatten, thickness and then do the edges on the slider. The fence on the jointer is always all the way back and the bridge guard is never in my way.

[Larry Edgerton]

One SCM shaper is the same, both combos have the grooves running length ways. Not a thing to be concerned about. Id say it wears a bit faster than a flat top. The combos are about 60 years old with a ton of use before i got them. They are still likely more true than some new stuff.

My first SCM saw had a planed top. I was young and did not know much and ground it to look like my 66. Later I learned it was supposed to be that way/ Some of the SCM machines were made in the Polish factory that made Unitronix and all of their tops were planed.

[mike stenson]

What is the euro guard actually guarding? I think the folding pork chop is about as good as it gets for a jointer (all of the guards for jointers are not great) the euro guard has the same exposure but also provides a bunch of stuff to be in your way on the outfeed table. This puts the operators workspace directly over the cutter head.

What does the pork chop guard actually guard? As soon as you push anything into it, it's wide open.

Same-same.. different.

[Brian Holcombe]

It’s guarding against things falling onto the cutter head from above. With exception to the Suva guard, the Euro guards leave a huge exposure when set for large material and also remain in the way.

The Suva seems pretty decent, but there is still a big chunk of mechanism in the way that is not there with the folding pork chop style guard.

[Phil Gaudio]

On a 16" jointer, face jointing a 16" wide board, a pork chop becomes an obstruction as it sticks out enough to get in your way as you walk the work piece down the length of the machine. In addition, as others have mentioned, once the pork chop is swung away from the Cutterhead, there is no guard as the trailing edge of the workpiece passes over the blades. And on a big piece of timber (see pic above) you might just be tempted to hook your fingers over the back edge: putting them potentially in harms way. With the euro guard, this is far less likely as you are forced to lift your hand up and over the guard once you get to the trailing end of the cut. There is no guard that is foolproof, but in this case, I see only advantage to the euro guard and disadvantages to the pork chop, particularly on a wide jointer.

[Phil Gaudio]

Warren: it is indeed PA cherry: Groff & Groff in Quarryville. I ordered that slab on a Monday and it was in my shop on Tuesday. They went above and beyond in terms of helping to select the perfect board for my project: highly recommend them. Phil

[Patrick Kane]

I had pork chops on my 6", 8", and 12" machines. I agree that i think you want a folding porkchop once your machine exceeds 12" in width. I now have the DIY euro bridge guard, like i said before, and i think it is very safe and convenient design for edge jointing. I dont want to say 'impossible', but something really has to go wrong for you to injure yourself while edge jointing if you set the guard to within 1/8" the thickness of your workpiece. I agree with Brian that it leaves something to be desired when face jointing 2"+ thick material. When you go thicker, it is even more ineffective at guarding the cutterhead. They all minimize risk, but they require different techniques. A euro guard makes it difficult to use push blocks. This is why you always see promotional videos of guys doing a very pronounced motion of having their fingertips hit the euro guard and ride over the guard. A porkchop is very convenient/easy to use a pushblock(s) in conjunction with, because the block can remain in constant contact with your workpiece as you work move towards the outfeed table. With a pork chop, the final exit cut leaves the majority of the cutterhead exposed, which is why i would recommend a pushblock with this style of guard. I think we can all agree the greatest threat while jointing is the entry into the cut and the exit. It is why i like a pushblock with a shoe for finishing the face jointing of a board. The euro guard doesnt play nicely with this technique, because you need to lift and reposition the pushblock prior to hitting the euro guard. Personally, i always taught myself never to have my hands within 6-8" of the cutterhead. I always lift my hands 18-24" as i approach the cutterhead and reposition them on the outfeed table. On the finishing cut of my workpiece, im always pulling it through from the outfeed table. All of your pressure and reference should be on the outfeed table by that point in the cut.