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Thread: table saw outfeed table

  1. #46
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    I'm going to be laminating a work surface in the near future.
    Thank you for taking the time to post a "helps and hints" list .
    "What you see and what you hear depends a great deal on where you are standing.
    It also depends on what sort of person you are.”

  2. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Seemann View Post
    Apologies if you have done laminate work before, if not, warning: Unsolicited advice below

    A glue spreader for the contact cement makes it go on much more evenly. Basically a piece of metal or plastic with v notches like used for laying tile. A place like Home Depot probably has one sized for vinyl flooring that would work. If you have a big blob of contact cement in one place it can cause the laminate to be a little high in that spot. Not a huge deal on an outfeed table, but ideally something you don't want. If the glue surface is super uneven it can interfere with the bond though.

    Let the glue dry to tacky, where it won't come of the laminate if you touch your finger to it. Don't let it sit overnight if possible. If you have enough extra, practicing on scrap isn't a bad idea. FYI, laminate likes to slide under table saw fences. It also sends sharp little chips all over the place when you cut it. I've had a few imbed a little bit in my fingers. More of an annoyance than anything.

    A bunch of 3/4" sticks laid across the substate (your plywood) will keep the laminate from touching prematurely. Too many sticks is better than not enough. You basically only have one shot; it is nearly impossible to remove after you get a good bond started. Make sure you have enough overlap on all edges.

    Remove enough sticks in the center to touch the laminate to the substrate (make sure you don't twist it or knock it off center in the process) and either work from the center out, or start from the center and go to one side then the other. Remove enough sticks to go 6-9 inches maybe 12 at a time. Use your hand to flatten and smooth out the laminate taking care not to get any air bubbles. Work from the center out. After you get the initial bond with your hands, use the J roller starting in the middle and work your way out. Always start with the roller working away from the center; the idea is that you will be pushing any air bubbles out rather than in. After you get a good bond it is OK to just go back and forth.

    After you get it all affixed, you'll want to trim the excess. The router bit will probably get full of adhesive a couple times and need to be cleaned off. If you need to touch up the edges you can use a medium to medium fine file.

    This was long winded I admit, and in practice it is pretty easy to do, though some of the steps and reasons aren't always obvious. There are videos out there of varying quality. I'd recommend watching at least a few of them. Good Luck!
    This is my first time doing laminate, and these and all the other tips are great. I do have a 1/8" v-notch tile trowel that should work perfect instead of a brush of foam brush. Great idea.
    Distraction could lead to dismemberment!

  3. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Rapp View Post
    That was my plan. Laminate all the way to the edge, including the solid wood boarder. I have 3 big planks of ASH that have dried. I will pull them out tomorrow and see if any are quartersawn to help reduce movement.
    Yea and this provides a nice look, too. (Important for some and not for others for sure)
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #49
    im old school, so solvent based sprayed. You can remove it anytime you want if need be

  5. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Garson View Post
    If your on a budget, pick up a used section of countertop from Habitat for Humanity's Restore. One from a kitchen island works best since there's no backsplash to remove. My outfeed/assembly table top is an old kitchen island countertop which we pulled out when we renovated our kitchen.
    Better yet, a solid core door. I scored a brand new, unused door for my outfeed table for $10. It was cored for a lockset, but NBD. Being solid (and HEAVY), I could rout grooves for the miter slots.

  6. #51
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    IMG_2198.jpgI went with Formica.
    NOW you tell me...

  7. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ole Anderson View Post
    IMG_2198.jpgI went with Formica.
    Ole, do you find the holes in your throat plate beneficial? That is something I have thought about adding to my plate.
    Please help support the Creek.


    "It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
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  8. #53
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    Good question (about holes in the throat plate)... I wondered the same thing.
    "What you see and what you hear depends a great deal on where you are standing.
    It also depends on what sort of person you are.”

  9. #54
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    Formica showed up today. The J-roller says it will arrive on Mon March 18th. Jeez. I ordered all from Home Depot and it shows it's not even shipped yet, after 3 days. Shrugs.
    Distraction could lead to dismemberment!

  10. #55
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    Coming from different places..

  11. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack duren View Post
    Coming from different places..
    Yes of course - various warehouses. But given I ordered it 3 days back and HomeDepot shows it's not even shipped yet is what bugs me out.
    Distraction could lead to dismemberment!

  12. #57
    you dont need it. I didnt have one for the first 20 years or more. It sticks on contact so find a way to put pressure on it. Ive seen people hammer with a block or even a sanding block with a soft side and pressure the J roll concentrates more. My office desk is towards 40 years old. It wasnt done with a J roller and its still perfect. Sure there would be other methods on the net .

  13. #58
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    I would use a J roller. We don’t all have that magic touch..

  14. #59
    are you kidding. Geez Jack you have tons of years experience. Take something that wont damage it and a rubber mallet and tap tap tap on the right block, its the same thing, of take a sanding block and put pressure on it. Whatever. IF you want go around all the outside edges with rubber mallet and then hand pressure a block in the inside. you will zero failure from that Geez ive seen this in multiple shops.

    The only neg id see is its probably not solvent and its all ive ever used it. I did 100's of pieces of laminate sometimes at a time, if one failed and then more it would have been hell.

  15. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Lake View Post
    are you kidding. Geez Jack you have tons of years experience. Take something that wont damage it and a rubber mallet and tap tap tap on the right block, its the same thing, of take a sanding block and put pressure on it. Whatever. IF you want go around all the outside edges with rubber mallet and then hand pressure a block in the inside. you will zero failure from that Geez ive seen this in multiple shops.

    The only neg id see is its probably not solvent and its all ive ever used it. I did 100's of pieces of laminate sometimes at a time, if one failed and then more it would have been hell.
    I’m sorry, but shops use J rollers and I have a couple myself. We have all done 100’s of pieces of laminate at a time. That’s why we hire employees..

    Some shops have pressure rollers..
    Last edited by jack duren; 03-08-2024 at 1:47 PM.

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