Spindle gouge bevel angle?

[John Kananis]

I've received solid advice so far - yours included so thanks for that. And I'll take perspective from anywhere I can find it at this point. I have friends that are both pro and hobbiest woodworkers but none that really know how to use a lathe "properly". I've joined my (most local) club so we'll see what I learn there. I've taken 2 classes (not great ones but got my feet wet). I've also purchased some material (the Ashley Harwood classes explained a lot the Stuart Batty concepts in a different way which gave better perspective - for instance). Why wouldn't I asked experienced people such as yourselves for input? Learning on my own is challenging enough.

If you base all your decisions on the advice of internet hobbiest, then you would expect the bevel to be critical. But ask a grizzly old veteran, and you will understand my advice. Rudy Osolnik said he put his kids through college making candle sticks and only had around 3 gouges in his shop. He sure didn't care if the bevel angle was 36 degrees or 42 degrees. Internet folks will argue about something being .005" out of flat. Same comparison.

[Edward Weber]

If you base all your decisions on the advice of internet hobbiest, then you would expect the bevel to be critical. But ask a grizzly old veteran, and you will understand my advice. Rudy Osolnik said he put his kids through college making candle sticks and only had around 3 gouges in his shop. He sure didn't care if the bevel angle was 36 degrees or 42 degrees. Internet folks will argue about something being .005" out of flat. Same comparison.

The OP is trying to learn.
I get your point but everyone has to learn in their own way at their own pace.
Also, Rude Osolnik is the name you're looking for.

[Dave Fritz]

The OP is trying to learn.
I get your point but everyone has to learn in their own way at their own pace.
Also, Rude Osolnik is the name you're looking for.

That's the point I was trying to make. Some turners are novices and some are extra skilled and some of us are plugging along. People have to start somewhere. There are a lot of variables in turning.

[John Kananis]

Thanks, Edward and Dave, for realizing my struggle. This is a difficult journey, flying solo. I'm trying to saturate myself with as much information as possible and let my brain and hands figure it all out. At the same time, I'm trying to catch my mistakes before they become bad habits... but how am I supposed to do that without knowing what I'm doing wrong? There's a lot of information out there but you have to pick through and what one person explains about a tool or process, usually isn't complete so you have to look at multiple sources, which have contradictions between them. Then, once you get to yt, you have to know that most people on there are idiots and find the content that really helps, which delivers other contradictions.

I get the absurdity of .005 out of flat, I'm a life long woodworker and earn money from my tools (just not my lathe yet haha) so my expectations, I hope, are grounded in reality but I'm figuring it out on my own.

[Bill Howatt]

John, could it be you are overthinking the beyond-the-basics theory part?
You usually find out quickly if you are doing it wrong: the tool grabs, scares you and there is an ugly groove in your workpiece. The other indicator you may be able to do better is if the surface needs standing at 80 grit or less. These have to do with things you know, ride the bevel, keep tools sharp, and shear is better than scrape but scraping is useful too. If you can't ride the bevel then find out why and adjust the angle or gouge heel.
Turning is like a lot of other things, you can research all you want but it boils down to practice, practice and more practice to get good at it and you will create some firewood doing it. Much more learn by doing with a bit of learn by reading.

[Edward Weber]

Thanks, Edward and Dave, for realizing my struggle. This is a difficult journey, flying solo. I'm trying to saturate myself with as much information as possible and let my brain and hands figure it all out. At the same time, I'm trying to catch my mistakes before they become bad habits... but how am I supposed to do that without knowing what I'm doing wrong? There's a lot of information out there but you have to pick through and what one person explains about a tool or process, usually isn't complete so you have to look at multiple sources, which have contradictions between them. Then, once you get to yt, you have to know that most people on there are idiots and find the content that really helps, which delivers other contradictions.

I get the absurdity of .005 out of flat, I'm a life long woodworker and earn money from my tools (just not my lathe yet haha) so my expectations, I hope, are grounded in reality but I'm figuring it out on my own.

I applaud your efforts and all I can say is, BTDT
As Bill says, you get to a point when you need to actually turn. If your method starts to lean one way towards known techniques or another that feels more comfortable to you, that's all fine.

There are plenty of turners that work in a somewhat "unconventional" manner. I don't turn anything at Jimmy Clewes RPM. I don't rough out bowls with scrapers like Reed Gray does, none of it matters, so long as you're safe and get the end result you want.

Personally, from your posts, I would say you're about done researching and ready to make some chips fly. Turning is just like any other type of woodworking, some people can talk it to death without much to show for it. Go make something, everyone turns a nice dog dish at some point.

[John Kananis]

Oh I've made trash bags of shavings (and firewood), I just come away with questions. Thanks again everyone for the help!!

[Richard Coers]

I've received solid advice so far - yours included so thanks for that. And I'll take perspective from anywhere I can find it at this point. I have friends that are both pro and hobbiest woodworkers but none that really know how to use a lathe "properly". I've joined my (most local) club so we'll see what I learn there. I've taken 2 classes (not great ones but got my feet wet). I've also purchased some material (the Ashley Harwood classes explained a lot the Stuart Batty concepts in a different way which gave better perspective - for instance). Why wouldn't I asked experienced people such as yourselves for input? Learning on my own is challenging enough.

There is some confusion here I guess. Asking a well experienced turner is definitely the thing to do, that is why I try to help. The only better way to learn is hands on with that pro. I took a class with John Jordan in the 90s. He would call out instructions from across the room, solely from listening to someone work. "RAISE THE END OF THE HANDLE was his most often yelled instruction. That kind of experience will cut months from your learning. I thought I was saying the opposite of your response. I'm trying to caution you about what advice you get from other new turners that get hung up on the tiniest detail of making their tools just like the YouTube experts. There are 100 poor hobbiest videos to each single professional video put on by a really experienced turner. And with the way many pros present their signature grinds to make income, even those are "skewed" to get you to spend the big money on tooling from them. You are being bombarded by marketing, compared to being bombarded with plain ole simple technique. Turning is the most difficult part of woodworking to properly learn. It's all on the operator, no fences or jigs to rely on. But it is not brain surgery, requiring the precision of surgical tools to make things happen. Yes you need surgical sharpness on the tools, but we still have muscles and joints to present the tool in any direction. These days, marketing even tells us we don't skills. According to them you can shove this piece of carbide into a block of spinning wood and turn like a pro. Convinced folks believe it and then market their first bowl on Etsy, only to buy more simple tools that don't even need to be sharpened.

[Richard Coers]

The OP is trying to learn.
I get your point but everyone has to learn in their own way at their own pace.
Also, Rude Osolnik is the name you're looking for.

Auto correct changed the given name, sorry I didn't catch that. It didn't try to change the surname anyway. I disagree that everyone HAS to learn in their own way and their own pace based on my experience. I got my first lathe based solely on a sale price ad in Fine Woodworking in 1985. Tools and some add looking expansion jaw chuck included. (4 jaw scroll chucks for woodworking hadn't been invented yet) I had so much trouble turning in my shop, I just parked the machine in the corner. Books were the only way to turn then. Years latter I went to a regional symposium in St. Louis. It was like an epiphany. Turning consumed my hobby world after that. Then videos came out and I watched all kinds of Beta video tapes. All that fine instruction changed me from a parked lathe to being an active turner who even had a solo gallery show. If you don't like my approach, that's fine. My style of typing or something I can't identify, seems to upset people. I'm just trying to share facts, I'm not trying to say I'm superior to anyone. But darn it, I thought sharing all my decades of experience would help others. But age and experience must not count for much these days since I get so much negativity to what I type. I can only assume that is why a very high percentage of professional woodturners don't help for free on forums. They must also get people who want to disagree with their comments and decided not to waste their time. I might as well join that group instead.

[John Kananis]

Richard, the challenges you faced (and the reason your lathe sat unused in the beginning) are what I'm trying to avoid. I hope I didn't make you feel that the advice you shared wasn't valued - it is. It would be great if I han an experienced "turning buddy" or real life guidance beyond what's available but alas...

[John Kananis]

I've re-ground the gouge (its quite smaller than what it started as...) like in your picture but with a steeper top bevel (probably close to 40°) and it's working quite well now (thanksfor the direction)!! My only complaint is edge longevity but I just got the D-Way in the mail so I'm going to make a handle for it and try it out (hopefully tomorrow) - I understand the steel is much better than the sorby m2. Also, the sweep angle is much closer to yours so I'm looking forward to seeing which works better for me.

There is no single correct answer on bevel angle.
The bevel angle on a spindle/detail gouge partially determines how aggressive the cut is.
With a low, 25 degree bevel angle, you get more of a paring cut. This can be great for softer woods and fine detail work but does dull more quickly.
With a higher, 40 degree bevel angle, you get more of a scoop like an SRG or bowl gouge. This can be good for harder woods, making the edge last longer but does not provide a fine enough point for some detail work.
this is one of my detail gouges, ground between 35-40
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