Best Drill Bits?

[Patty Hann]

Fuller Brand (Brad points) made in US

https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/TD

[Mike Cutler]

WL Fuller in Rhode Island.
It's what they make, and they sell direct to the public.
They have the most comprehensive line of drill bits you will find. If you need it, or can think of it, they've probably already made it.

https://www.wlfuller.com

[Tom M King]

Many thanks for that Fuller link!! I have this set that must be 45 years old and still fine. I'll be spending some money with them again.

https://www.amazon.com/Countersinks-...t-items&sr=1-1

[Mike O'Keefe]

Fuller is number 1 in my book followed by Viking. Mike O'Keefe

[Mike Cutler]

Many thanks for that Fuller link!! I have this set that must be 45 years old and still fine. I'll be spending some money with them again.

https://www.amazon.com/Countersinks-...t-items&sr=1-1

Tom

They make some nice stuff, and they're very nice people.

[Jerome Stanek]

I went to a Black and decker Dewalt outlet store and bought hundreds of the sizes I use most often. I ended up with a $75 bill for maybe 250 bits. That was back in 95 and I still have some. I used those bits every day when I was working.

[Patty Hann]

I bought one of those kits of drill bits from woodcraft when it was half price around Christmas (a few years before I bought the Fuller set) .
Sizes range from 1/16 up to (IIRC) 5/16 with a mix of Brad points and regular twist bits.
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/w...-set-100-piece

I found most of the real small bits were never quite straight.
I still use the set for non precision drilling, and the Fuller bits when I want round hole.

[Dave Sabo]

Interesting how many guys have chimed in with “their favorite” -or- what they use but almost no one has said why they think theirs the “BEST” or mention switching from another brand because of non or lackluster performance.

From this small sample , it would appear that pretty much everyone makes a good bit.

[Patty Hann]

Interesting how many guys have chimed in with “their favorite” -or- what they use but almost no one has said why they think theirs the “BEST” or mention switching from another brand because of non or lackluster performance.

From this small sample , it would appear that pretty much everyone makes a good bit.

Well, I got the "cheapo" 100 piece set first from Woodcraft (see post above), and the smaller bits weren't straight (most weren't, a few were) so I went to the Fuller set.
And the Fullers are straight.
So I guess that should tell you why I think the Fuller bits are " the best", 'cause they're certainly better than the [smaller] Asian bits in the Woodcraft set.

[mike stenson]

Interesting how many guys have chimed in with “their favorite” -or- what they use but almost no one has said why they think theirs the “BEST” or mention switching from another brand because of non or lackluster performance.

From this small sample , it would appear that pretty much everyone makes a good bit.

The best I've used are fuller and viking. What's the best I haven't used? How would I know?

[Andrew Seemann]

I guess I have used a lot over the years: Chicago Latrobe, Hanson, Cleveland, Big box (I lump all of them together, Millwakee, B&D, DeWalt etc, they all seem about the same to me), Vermont American, various eras of Craftsman, Morse, Union, a lot of generic imported sets, and more new and old brands I don't remember. The older USA-made, industrial-quality brands all were good. The main differences were the type of drill and what application it was specifically intended for. Sadly, a lot of those old American companies are either gone or exist only in name only.

I have a few specific preferences for the Norseman. The sides flutes are very sharp, making things like elongated holes much easier. You do have to be careful about cutting yourself though. They also have a slightly faster spiral than most bits, which I like for chip clearance in most materials. They are relatively easy to get and reasonably priced for the quality. They are also made locally in St. Paul

I don't know that I have used Fuller, if I did I wasn't aware. I generally don't look at the brand of the bit when grabbing one out of the drawer or set, and I have a lot of mixed sets in addition to my "good" Norsemans (Norsemen?).

[Jimmy Harris]

I just tend to buy whatever brand they have at the store when it comes to twist bits. DeWalt, Milwaukee, Ryobi, Craftsman, Irwin, whatever. I've never felt one brand was significantly better than any other, so long as you stayed away from the no-name brands and Harbor Freight. And even those can be okay if you don't expect them to last long. I tend to focus more on the metal they're made out of. Choose the right metal for the job. I'd pick cobalt bits for drilling through metal. Twist bits are throw-away bits to me, so I'd rather have a bunch than spend a bunch on one.

I don't get brand loyal and start "investing" in bits until you get into Forstner, auger, or brad point bits. I find a much bigger difference between brands with these bits.

[Derek Cohen]

Reading post about drill bit sharpeners, I started thinking about the few drill bit sets that I have that are missing few drill bits. Originally I would run down to local Ace buy drill bit. But I’m older, I dislike crowds and traffic, hate setting in long line at cash register and at dang red light where individuals trying sell me flowers or trinkets. With me getting off subject for minute I like to know what is a good brand of drill bits to buy for replacement? I’m just every day Joe the homeowner that will drill through mild steel from 16ga up maybe 1/2 when making moble base for bandsaws etc. I know need 1/8 and up but as you know some sizes get used lot while others will get used very little. Even if 1/8 cost say 5.00 if it’s worth it I’m in, anything keep me out of massive crowds

Hi Carroll

While I could mention manufacturers of twist bits I use (however, they are local and not much use to you), in my opinion it is of less relevance than the ability to sharpen them when they dull. I know of many who consider drill bits to be consumables, and then search out bits which hold an edge as long as possible. This is unnecessary if you have the mental set that they will need to be sharpened, expect to do this, and have the knowledge to proceed automatically.

The allied factor is correct speed when drilling. Edge life is greatly prolonged if you avoid a higher-than-necessary speed. This is especially so when drilling metal. I am fortunate to have owned a Voyager drill press (with the ability to dial in the ideal speed) over the past 5 years, and this has driven home this factor.

Sharpening twist bits is pretty straight-forward by hand, once learned, or a Drill Doctor is probably the supreme machine (and relatively inexpensive).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Rich Engelhardt]

I guess I'm a real bottom feeder when it comes to drill bits.
I buy 10 packs of 1/8" from Harbor Freight when they go on sale.

It can be considered an upgrade of sorts though. There once was a time when I only had .22, .38, .44 and 12 ga sizes.

[Andrew Seemann]

I do agree with sharpening bits by hand. It seems like an intimidating and difficult thing, but once you get the hang of it, it is really, really easy. Easier than sharpening a scraper. Easy enough that I haven't gotten around to learning to use the Drill Doctor I inherited 8 years ago. I remember using it with my dad when he first got it. My memory was if you did a whole set of badly worn bits, it might have been a little faster, but for a bit here and there doing it by hand on a grinder was quicker. The other thing is that he somehow managed to sharpen a bunch of bits left handed. I had to watch out for those for a few years